T4 oil pressure relief valve

[Lil Lulu]

My normal suppliers have no repair kits. I need to find a oil pressure relief valve repair kit for my single relief 78 CE case.
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'65 Beetle "Lil' Lulu"- Ruby Red
1600 stock from '71 bus

'72 Deluxe - Niagara Blue w/pastelwiess Camper Special 2L dual 40 Webers 002

'74 Hightop Weekender "Dixie" 1800 34 Del singles

[SGKent]

define "kit."

There is a valve and spring, cap and washer on a single relief. Dual relief have another set. The parts are not necessarily interchangeable.

This is what my GD engine uses:

https://www.vwheritage.com/021115421b-oil-pressure-relief-spring-vw-spare

https://www.vwheritage.com/021115411a-oil-pressure-relief-piston-vw-spare
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[Wildthings]

Did you by chance try to get the piston to seal to the end of the bore? If so that could potentially cause then engine to run at higher than normal oil pressure and to continuously send oil through the cooler. If so remove your piston and use a triangular file to cut a groove across the top of the piston, this will allow it to operate as designed. Your hot oil pressure just sounds too high.

Are you perhaps looking to go with an oversized relief piston the the tool to cut the bore? Can't help you there.

[SGKent]

[Wildthings]

[SGKent]

the stock piston I bought new was very smooth on top when new. Last thing one wants is leakage there when the oil is hot and the pressure lower. Not only does the leakage reduce pressure further, it reduces oil going to the cooler.
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[Wildthings]

If the piston seals to the end of the bore the pressure will jump as the piston touches the end and then drop suddenly if and when the pressure builds sufficiently to where the piston is pushed away from the end of the bore. I don't see any way this would be desirable and this pretty well fits Lil Lulu's symptoms of very high oil pressure and sub normal oil temperatures.

[SGKent]

[Wildthings]

[Lil Lulu]

Seems there is not a new spring and plunger in the US or Canada. Can’t wait 3 weeks.

Talked to several old heads last night. All suggest that this valve could affect oil temps but would have no affect on head temps, which has been my take all along. So I’m back to square 1.

I did attach a different op gauge and made another 20+ mile run this morning @ 35° ambient. As usual head temps rose to 340° to 360° (normal) Oil pressure 95# then dropped down to 285°, op 55# and wavy after 6 miles and stayed there until a 1 mile, 6% grade then head temps rose to a whopping 306°. Oil temp never moved on the whole run. Top of case temp 122° after running. Again, normally the head temps would be tickling 400° on this grade and the oil temp would run around +/- 200. Tested the thermostat again with heat gun and it expands normally and the flaps are opening.

Is there anything else that could cause this cold running condition? Beginning to pull on my ear and suck on my blankey.
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'65 Beetle "Lil' Lulu"- Ruby Red
1600 stock from '71 bus

'72 Deluxe - Niagara Blue w/pastelwiess Camper Special 2L dual 40 Webers 002

'74 Hightop Weekender "Dixie" 1800 34 Del singles

[SGKent]

the flap on the left - driver side (LHD) acts as a vane and allows some air to flow into the oil cooler, and some to flow to the heads. There is a rubber seal that goes on the tin that helps seal the oil cooler so air doesn't slip around it. Do you know if these things are working right? Make sure nothing has gotten onto or over the oil cooler to partially block it. Also make sure that the heat exchangers are in place and that they are sealed to the shroud.

Also - usually I get things from VW Heritage in less than a week when I order them. I've gotten things from them before things ordered here in the states at the same time.

The CE case is 72-73 according to the data online. There are two different pistons that go in the pressure relief under the engine at the back near the oil filter. They are according to the fiche:

311 115 411 up to 1975 16mm x 24mm
021 115 411 A 1976 and later 16mm x 22mm

The spring is 021 115 421B on both according to the fiche
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[orwell84]

I find that my oil temps just don’t get very hot at that kind of ambient temp and in general it takes at least an hour or more of steady highway driving for oil temps to reach their maximum value. Winter and summer driving are night and day according to my gauges. Even summer morning vs summer afternoon gauge readings vary quite a bit.

[Lil Lulu]

Oil cooler seal is in place. Nothing blocking the cooler. Wouldn’t that raise the temp rather than lower it?

The rebuilt heat exchangers (72-74) are in place and provide plenty of airflow. I have all the bits and pieces, even the little flappers post-shroud, but I do not run an aux heat fan.

Just took another drive without changing anything, just let her cool down @ now 38° ambient. Again, ran up to 340° to 350° head temp (normal) and got to 160° oil temp then 7 miles out goes down to 290°ht and oil drops too but not all the way to 130 as the earlier run. The wavy oil pressure is now stabilized @ 55# when warm.

I have to make a trip to the high dessert for five days for my work. This bus ran toasty last winter in sub10° temps. Rather not have to take the Tacoma and have to sieep in a fricking tent.
_________________
'65 Beetle "Lil' Lulu"- Ruby Red
1600 stock from '71 bus

'72 Deluxe - Niagara Blue w/pastelwiess Camper Special 2L dual 40 Webers 002

'74 Hightop Weekender "Dixie" 1800 34 Del singles

[Lil Lulu]

Whoops on the case # it’s a GE case.
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'65 Beetle "Lil' Lulu"- Ruby Red
1600 stock from '71 bus

'72 Deluxe - Niagara Blue w/pastelwiess Camper Special 2L dual 40 Webers 002

'74 Hightop Weekender "Dixie" 1800 34 Del singles

[raygreenwood]

[SGKent]

doesn't make sense to me.

[Wildthings]

[raygreenwood]

[SGKent]

any loss of oil at that valve reduces flow to the gallery. Once it is notched it affects oil pressure at idle and low rpm low oil pressure. That valve should seal, and the spring should be tested at the proper height and load. The specs are in Bentley. I'm sure that length and load both were selected to avoid oscillation. But if someone changes the spring pressure, or it gets weak, then all sorts of chatter could result. Mine works fine. It is stock 100% and the spring is right at the spec in Bentley. The saying is don't F with it if it works.
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[Wildthings]