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1981 (@wileythewesty) TDI conversion, from ground up
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charleslabri
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 21, 2023 8:48 pm    Post subject: Re: 1981 (@wileythewesty) TDI conversion, from ground up Reply with quote

This thread (Vanagon Intermittent Wiper Relay #19, Repair and Analysishttps://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=734374) has been incredibly insightful, but also incredibly frustrating as the numbering scheme is not entirely accurate for early vanagon connectors.

Here's what I have learned to get my wipers from where they have been for the last few years to in a fully working position.
When I got things going, I just mostly drove without wipers, but it rained once, so I hooked them up without the relay- i was able to trigger the high and low motor, but had no home return. This drove me crazy in my recent trip to the Ozarks where I encountered some fairly hard rain.

First off, here is my drawn up diagram, which is the meat of this.

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In here, the T wire doesn't have the squirter motor inline, so just add that to complete that circuit.
Also notice that the 31 and 53B on the switch are super easy to get confused. you can distinguish because 31 (ground) has a metal flange that connects with the mounting bolt, whereas 53B is just a post

In the thread linked above, there is supposed to be:
on the relay: 53S, 15, 31, T, J, 53M
on the switch: 53B, 53, J, L, T, 53A, 53E
on the motor: 53E, 53A, 53B, 53, 31


What I found when I looked on the actual connectors that I had on my OEM stuff from the early Aircooled wiring was this:
on the relay: 53S, 15, 31, I, T, 53M (difference being the I rather than J)
on the switch: 53B, 53, J, L, T, 53A, 53E (no difference)
on the motor: 31B, 53A, 53B, 53, 31 (difference being 31B rather than 53E)

It took a while to sort from the diagrams in the Bentley to the actual switches, since things were ajar.

Colors in that diagram don't represent the actual wire colors. I ended up making a custom harness for the wiper motor after much testing to come up with the proper wiring

wire testing bench
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(mostly) finished harness
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Hope this helps some lonely early vanagon wiring person out there in the future.
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charleslabri
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 06, 2023 12:30 pm    Post subject: Re: 1981 (@wileythewesty) TDI conversion, from ground up Reply with quote

Finally got a spare tire mounted up. Ive lagged! 6k miles on the current build and the general grabbers are showing age.

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I did install the gw swingarm on the rmw bumper. Its ok for now but i plan to reinforce the back side of the bumper. Gw makes note that its not strong enough to mount. A bit of welding will fix that.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 02, 2023 5:50 pm    Post subject: Re: 1981 (@wileythewesty) TDI conversion, from ground up Reply with quote

moving from flat-pack to constructed cabinets! I am waiting on the tambour doors to be delivered sometime this week or next. While I wait I can work on the deck lid and the headbanger (which I may/may not use).


Started piecing together the deck lid. It's got a sort of hollow design with an inset removable table and enough room for my raised deck lid. The original designer of the cabinets wanted to use this space here for storage.. so lots of room in there. It also lifts straight up to reveal the engine lid for removal and work
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Sitting in place in the back
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 27, 2023 8:52 am    Post subject: Re: 1981 (@wileythewesty) TDI conversion, from ground up Reply with quote

Next up I started on my subfloor and beginning to build my cabinets.

I was back and forth a million times on what to do for the interior. I have a mostly full stock interior in white, but happened upon someone (whos probably in this forum id imagine) who was willing to work with me on some custom cabinets in a self-install situation.

I had the cabinets cut over at Neal’s CNC in Hayward, CA. I cant recommend them enough- they know vans super well and the owner is a collector of odd German trucks.

I opted for a raw wood with a finish over the laminate stock since the laminate chips and im not going for a stock feel anyway.

When I drove across the US a few weeks ago, I packed and laid the parts in the bottom of the van.

Now I am getting them out and piecing them together.

Started with the subfloor. Cleaned things off, ensured there were no holes (that i didnt want) and laid down some reflextrix as recommended by some here, and then laid down a subfloor which Neal’s CNC cut for me. I put 3 thick coats of oil based poly on the subfloor before putting it in. I am still on the fence on screwing the subfloor in- maybe i will, not sure.
Base:
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Subfloor:
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Carpet ( i believe this was from sewfine, its been a while)
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I started to glue the cabinets and the rain came, so I had to pull them inside for a spell and update this thread


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 27, 2023 8:42 am    Post subject: Re: 1981 (@wileythewesty) TDI conversion, from ground up Reply with quote

During my drive from Yosemite to Nashville in the van I had a lower OEM grill from an aircooled mounted up on the front mounted intercooler (FMIC). I used zip ties and it looked awful.

I had planned on cutting it and matching it to the size of the intercooler but decided against this.
When I painted my van, i cut the lower portion of the body out where the lower grille sits, but i didnt have any references, so i cut it an odd size: slightly narrower than stock.

So instead of trying to make something like this and ruin a perfectly good lower grill, i found this stuff that racers, custom car dudes and truckers use. Its a hard-ish honeycomb material and acts as a sponge for incoming rocks, etc. but lets all the airflow in. I imagine itll get beat up as time goes on, but 1 $20 piece allows me three pieces which fit my intercooler.
Its made by Allstar Performance, part number ALL30158. Can find it at your regular online retailers.

I threw some black spray paint on it as the only downside is that its a burnt orange color. Well see how it holds up.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 09, 2023 10:01 am    Post subject: Re: 1981 (@wileythewesty) TDI conversion, from ground up Reply with quote

Update on some temps:

Ambient air temp: 83f unless noted
Speed: 65/70
RPM: 3000-3200
Interstate 40- Albuquerque to Amarillo
For what its worth, im carrying the equivalent of fully loaded westy weight, getting very consistently 28mph

Intercooler
ECU readings on current Boxeer firmware (2.1 i want to say he’s calling it)

For this section I’ll call the post- water-to-water charge air cooler (OEM EA288) the CAC and the aftermarket water-to-air intercooler i installed on the front bumper in front of the lower grille the INT.

INT: 240-310f (VW G42 Sensor)
CAC: 130-145f (VW G811 Sensor)
Exhaust gas temperature sits around 600-900f and will burst to around 1250 on a hill climb. I tend to lighten foot if i see it get around 1350f
Boost is usually 7-10 psi on a flat

Transaxle
External case temp sensor

The Dakota CHT sensor is located in that bolt slot pictured above, which is left side of trans, just above the axle, and a little forward and below the slave cylinder. This is above the oil line, so hotter or cooler, i dont know. Not many folks run the 091 transaxles, so not a lot of data.


Freeway cruising on .775 4th straight cut from Gears
Oil: swepco 202, about 2k on fluid

Reading is consistent around 135-140f depending on hill climbing.

Drop the ambient to 50f and temps stick around 120-130f
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 24, 2023 7:16 am    Post subject: Re: 1981 (@wileythewesty) TDI conversion, from ground up Reply with quote

Gotcha- yeah this thing runs quite a bit hotter on the turbo. I’ve spoken to a number of folks who run an air to water in the rear without active cooling and have had to either add active cooling or move it due to high temps causing the ecu to go into limp mode
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 23, 2023 6:32 pm    Post subject: Re: 1981 (@wileythewesty) TDI conversion, from ground up Reply with quote

Nope. VW TDI. Just posting an IAT data point for comparison.
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 23, 2023 6:23 pm    Post subject: Re: 1981 (@wileythewesty) TDI conversion, from ground up Reply with quote

MarkWard wrote:
My air to air intercooler mounted in the floor of the d pillar with no auxiliary fan seems to cool the charge 30 F over ambient at highway speeds. I don’t think I’ve ever seen posted what the stock donor had for IAT, but I can live with what I have. Just supplying a data point for you. Thanks for the update.

PS, I don’t monitor transaxle temps or exhaust temps. I just drive it.



Are you running a 2.0 ea288?
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 23, 2023 2:45 pm    Post subject: Re: 1981 (@wileythewesty) TDI conversion, from ground up Reply with quote

My air to air intercooler mounted in the floor of the d pillar with no auxiliary fan seems to cool the charge 30 F over ambient at highway speeds. I don’t think I’ve ever seen posted what the stock donor had for IAT, but I can live with what I have. Just supplying a data point for you. Thanks for the update.

PS, I don’t monitor transaxle temps or exhaust temps. I just drive it.
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 23, 2023 2:33 pm    Post subject: Re: 1981 (@wileythewesty) TDI conversion, from ground up Reply with quote

Update here with some info as the interesting parts of a van build are not the `look at the cool things I did which you can't do/no lessons learned` and more about what details you do see.
Here's some updates:

1. Run your intake up the D pillar if you convert
Initially when I did the conversion I was leaving the engine lid off and eating the smoke and dust off the road. This last winter I fabricated a proper deck lid which brought temps in the engine bay (and intake in this case) up. I typically saw a delta of around 10-30 degrees from the ambient air (sensor in front grill) to intake temp (on EA288 in engine bay). Obviously engine bay being hotter. This led to some seriously increased temps across the board into undesirable ranges. Id say unless you're running with no deck lid, no one should pull intake right out of the engine compartment. There isn't enough airflow there. Mind you, I have the metal slatted early-style air-cooled body. Which, I believe, was designed to bring cold air IN to the engine bay via the vents (controversial, lots of speculation here).

2. Aircooled transaxle temps nice and low (on initial run)
I put this Dakota CHT gauge on my transaxle the other day- I've had it laying around and haven't had the time to run the sensor wire properly. Last Feb, when doing a whole slew of undercarriage sensor wiring (literally, run at least 20 extra wires front to back if you ever do a full custom harness reset like I did), I ran the analog CHT sensor wire and bolted it up to a spare bolt slot on the side of the transaxle.
A whole lot less folks run Aircooled transaxles, so the data around is relatively thin on what temps I should be seeing (and even if an exterior mounted sensor like this is going to give me accurate data). What I did find: don't let the trans get above 220 internally, you probably should run it past 200 internally, you'll get issues at 180 internally, most folks don't see temps over 150 internally.
Today, I dove 4 hours from Mariposa to South Lake Tahoe. its a couple hundred miles of hills, curves and climbs. Mariposa is at 2000' and South Lake Tahoe is at 6500'. You pass over Carson Pass around 9500' at the max height. Ambient temp this am during my drive (5a-9a) was ~63f.
With this external sensor the trans typically reported around 120f with a peak of 132f. My driving was mostly around 50-55mph at ~3000-3200 RPM (mostly climbing hills).

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3. Some data around the boxeer engine conversion temps on intercooler loop
For those who don't know how this is set up, the EA288 has a water-to-water charge air cooler which the installer hooks off of and adds an air-to-water intercooler and a pump to circulate things. Some folks run these mid or rear with active cooling, and some run front mounted (like me) with only passive cooling (gets a little active off the front rad puller fan). This loop is wholly disconnected from the main coolant loop. There are two stock sensors on the EA288 which gauge temp before the CAC (charge air cooler) and post CAC. Ive attempted to find the post-CAC sensor (some have had success with the vendor specific `blue driver` ELM327 ODBII dongle. Ive used a generic ELM327 with Torque and ODBII Fusion, Ive used a ScanGauge II and an Ultra-Gauge. The only one -I- could get to find the sensor was the ScanGauge II. SGII address: (VW G811 Post CAC Sensor, TXD: 07E0221AC0 RXF:C462051A36C0 RXD:3010 MTH:00090032FE34) AND (VW G810 Pre CAC Sensor, TXD:07DF017700 RXF:04410577 RXD:3008 MTH00090005FFD8).
My anecdotal temps for the Mariposa to Tahoe drive this am (see point #2 for conditions) are Pre-CAC max was 289 and average was around 180-240. My Post-CAC max was 125 and averaged around 100.
FWIW, it looks like they both are doing their job fairly well. I read somewhere that the EA288 will hit an ECU limited limp-mode around 175 on the Post CAC. You'd have to get some serious temps to get there id imagine.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 21, 2023 7:38 pm    Post subject: Re: 1981 (@wileythewesty) TDI conversion, from ground up Reply with quote

Been a while, lots of things to do that aren't a Vanagon!

In the meantime, in preparation for a long arse trip across America in the van I put an old Dakota digital CHT gauge that I had laying around from the air-cooled days. I bolted it to the side of the transaxle exterior, fit perfect. This may give me some *approximate* temps on the trans.

I drove through the Central Valley of CA the other day and temps were 110 in the front grill temp sensor outside and the intake temp off the pavement was 140.. sitting there in stop and go traffic was sweaty.

I read a few nice posts from other folks who expect an air-cooled trans to sit somewhere about 100f above ambient, some say they never see an aircoold trans go above 150-200 though Sodo had said somewhere that 180f is main bearing death. Other folks indicate that 210 is warning and 220 is death.

I'll find out what I'm hitting driving around. Going up to Tahoe from Yosemite, on weds, so that will put stress on the transaxle
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 06, 2023 7:10 am    Post subject: Re: 1981 (@wileythewesty) TDI conversion, from ground up Reply with quote

That is a really nice panel! 550w!
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 05, 2023 8:28 pm    Post subject: Re: 1981 (@wileythewesty) TDI conversion, from ground up Reply with quote

My lovely wife assisted me in mounting this penology 550w solar panel on the roof today.

I am still considering my mounting mechanism- is it strong enough?

It's 3x 1.5"(wide)x1/8(thick)"x4'(long) aluminum bar mounted on these steel rain gutter mounts.

Ive got a single m8 8.8 bolt on either side of the panel mounted into the aluminum frame attaching the aluminum bar:
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This is repeated 3x times across the unit:
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These 3x bars are then bolted to the rain gutter mounts, again m8 8.8.
Im using nylon rimmed nuts, blue loctite, and lock washers on all the bolts.


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Mounted up there it only raises off the roof by 1.75" which was around my desired lift. I *just* clear the sun roof. I wanted to keep low profile up there as to not yank a bunch of wind like a sail to keep upward lift off.
I went with the aluminum bar rather than square to keep that low profile.

Also planning on fabricating an ABS wind deflector on the front to further assist.



Anyone have done something similar? Thoughts on this?

Also- have a second panel here in San Francisco if anyone wants it at cost. Renology makes me buy 2 of them.
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 04, 2023 1:04 pm    Post subject: Re: 1981 (@wileythewesty) TDI conversion, from ground up Reply with quote

Yeah, i went with silicone since i did the air-> water conversion and i figured that silicone across the whole vehicle. In order to counter it getting cut i wrapped it with an industrial anti- abrasion wrap from an industrial supplier (used on pneumatic hoses for tractors, etc)

Upsides: durable, resistant to expansion + temperature, bendable in ways that a rubber compound cant

Downsides: expensive, easy to cut accidentally, near damned impossible to get a seal in some places.

Ive still got a spot from the rear coolant return line metal line -> back to the ea288 engine which is so stubborn. Ive tried a lot of different clamps and none are successful. The leak is really slow and only appears over 10PSI.
Seems that Oetiker clamps are the only solution I can get for a good seal on silicone in most places. The wide ones with a nut/bolt combo (not a worm drive one) are also effective, but have a tendency to unwind themselves after time. Where I have these ive liberally applied blue loctite as well as the nylon nuts to assist with this.

I recall years ago buying silicone hoses for my xr650r motorcycle since they were `high performance`. Dont let anyone tell you that.. sure they dont expand or wear as fast, but thats just marketing BS afaik.
As seen in the pic above, i do have one single rubber line which runs on the return from the front heater box to the vanistan valve, where it transitions back to silicone (and its blue!) to the rear of the van where it hits the pre-thermostat cabin heat line.


Next up:
-Got a renology 500w solar panel to mount to the roof
- in the recent weeks I `teed` an oil pressure sensor off the OEM one and ran it to the front,
- also used my aircooled CHT gauge from dakota to attach to the side of the 091 trans to track temps of the transaxle
- Ran 6 new 20 gauge copper wires from the engine bay to the front cab by the dash for: coolant temp sensor on main engine coolant, 2x for coolant level, alternator light + a couple spares in case
- bought a new front wiper arm assembly since the seal was worn on the wiper connection point and caused the arm to fall off in a rainstorm recently- had to drive 100 miles with no wipers
- re-assemble the front dash and sort of re-design the gauge/buttons layout
- get the interior moving (drove to Bend the other day and Kevin G from veedubdayspa was super cool and sold me some cabinet stuff to complete a sale that a samba seller ripped me off on)

More to come
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 03, 2023 10:20 am    Post subject: Re: 1981 (@wileythewesty) TDI conversion, from ground up Reply with quote

Zeitgeist 13 wrote:
^^^especially on that silicone hose, which can be really slippery. I've seen those thinner screw clamps strip out numerous times.


x2 i'll pile on here to say im not really a fan of silicone hose as its always more troublesome to get to seal - in my experience...
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2023 7:48 pm    Post subject: Re: 1981 (@wileythewesty) TDI conversion, from ground up Reply with quote

Awesome work. I read the whole thread. Looking forward to what's next, cheers.
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2023 4:09 pm    Post subject: Re: 1981 (@wileythewesty) TDI conversion, from ground up Reply with quote

I know vancafe has the special hose that is the return hose from the heater core. Not sure about the other one though...
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2023 5:56 pm    Post subject: Re: 1981 (@wileythewesty) TDI conversion, from ground up Reply with quote

Ok, back at this, and ill say to anyone who is doing something similar… just go to oetikers.
I pressurized the system the other day and these new fancy 26mm hose clamps failed.
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Ive got to do the same at the rear coolant line to metal pipe transition.. that one has a very minor weep that i need to handle. Will be doing once the larger oetikers show up
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2023 6:55 am    Post subject: Re: 1981 (@wileythewesty) TDI conversion, from ground up Reply with quote

I sneezed and they fell off.

Replaced
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