Getting the axel nuts off is a snap... Help!

[Cusser]

[Moz'z58]

Looks like you may need other suggestions...?

For me, and most with these cars = 3/4 drive proto breaker bar and 6 point hvy dty Proto and Snap-on impact sockets are my method, with a 4-5' x 1" section of black gas pipe cheater over the bar - this is the way I went when I got my bus in 80's. If your going to drive these you have to invest somehow, esp'ly now when NO ONE will work on them.

I have a tape marker to stand my weight on for final torque guesstimate of 256 I believe for the 46mm bus. Keep in mind it is only near to correct because rarely will that official # number line up with the cotter, which is obviously the failsafe. So backing off to get hole may be 190#. or over to 350# Doesn't matter, it is 'enough' but do keep TRQ as high as possible or drum will work itself on the axle splines. Pack grease into the gaps of splines and get interfaces well greased too to 'seal' for water ingress.

Breaking a 1/2 square drive means you need a 'solution'. My own first problem and lesson in '86 was same as your doing now. A neighbor solved it for me by cutting the nut with a dremel and cut off wheel - took 5 minutes. the cut through was enough relief and it came right off with a cold chisel into the kerf.

But with low bucks I'd try PB Blaster, tapping around the nut also w/ ball peen, and keep soaking - maybe a few days. Then clean it off for less fumes, and apply some heat, but not too much just to where you can't touch it, not red hot or anything near it. Don't heat the axle end, keep flame on nut only Then see if a fresh 1/2 drive will work again if 3/4 investment or rental is no-go.

Otherwise get a new nut and cut this off. Or sell the car Hope you get it - patiently applied persistence is the key

[ashman40]

First question... did you remove the cotter pin? Sorry, just had to check.

The point about applying 1100lb-ft... if you were actually able to stand on the 6ft piece of pipe while applying the toque to the nut for a few seconds I might agree with you. I suspect BEFORE you could actually stand on the pipe the 3/4" to 1/2" adapter snapped off. This means before you could actually apply the full 1100lb-ft the adapter broke. I'm pretty sure the adapter wasn't rated to even half of 1100lb-ft. So I doubt you will actually be applying 1100lb-ft nor should you need that much to break the nut loose. But 500lb-ft, maybe.

When I first tried to remove my rear axle nuts I broke both a Craftsman and Proto 1/2-drive breaker bar. Only the Snap-On 1/2" breaker survived. The nut gave a huge screech when it came loose.

Since then I bought a 3/4" breaker + a 3/4" 36mm socket.
I also bought the TorqueMeister/TorqueBuddy tool. It really is quite amazing and makes it much easier to remove the nut. It really only takes 30-50lb-ft of torque at the tool (450lb-ft) to remove even the most stubborn nuts and only 24lb-ft to install. It really feels like it isn't tight enough because it is sooo easy.
Given a choice, I'd much rather remove the nut with one hand using a 3/8" ratchet + 11mm socket, than to dangerously apply 400-500lb-ft by jumping on the end of a 6ft long bar.


Here are my suggestion for getting the rear axle nut off.... for all, apply penetrating oil and some heat before-hand to aid in loosening the nut.

1) If still driveable, take it to a shop with a 3/4" impact gun and have them loosen it for a few $$.

2) When your 3/4" 36mm socket arrives you should be able to apply enough torque to remove the nut. The challenge will be to keep the drum from rotating. Even with the transmission in gear with the parking brake set it may be necessary to apply so much torque you will end up rotating the wheel. In which case you will need to mount a bar to the lug nuts to prevent them from rotating.

3) Buy a TorqueBuddy.

4) Buy a slug wrench. They do work for taking the nut off, but you may damage the tire/wheel/drum if you are not careful.

5) Cut the nut off and buy a new one. This is not that difficult. As long as you take caution to not damage the threads you should be okay.

There is one situation (not your case) where only ONE of the above will work to remove the nut... if you strip the splines on your drums the drum/wheel cannot be used to counter the torque you are applying. This means the parking brake and the lug nuts thru a bar/angle iron will not help. Only the impact gun will be able to remove the nut off the end of the axle.
_________________
AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[TDCTDI]

When you start pricing a “quality” 3/4” breaker bar & socket, a torquemeister starts to look more appealing & fits in a smaller space. And like the Torquemeister, you will not really have any other use for them.

But as far as the Torquemeister goes, why in the hell did they opt for 11mm?!?
_________________
Everybody born before 1975 has a story, good, bad, or indifferent, about a VW.


GOFUNDYOURSELF, quit asking everyone to do it for you!


An air cooled VW will make you a hoarder.


Do something, anything, to your project every day, and you will eventually complete it.

[Cusser]

I bought my TorqueMeister tool as a better alternative to buying a torque wrench that went to 250 ft lbs for tightening. I had been borrowing such from O'Reilly, and figured the only thing that would require such high torque on any vehicle (past the 150 ft lb of my HF torque wrench) would be rear axle nut and gland nut, so Torque Tool was less expensive than bigger torque wrench.

I haven't had real issues removing rear axle nuts or gland nut myself, but now I have the Torque Tool for that too.
_________________
1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[storm]

Had that same problem with a 67 bus. Took a acelean torch. Get the axle nut red hot. Then try above methods. Works for me and should work for you.
_________________
always ready to learn and give advice

[tacky]

[quote="TDCTDI"]

[Pruneman99]

Get the torque tool and never jump on dangerous long breaker bars again.

The tool makes it soooo easy. All you need is a 3/8 ratchet. Hell, a 1/4 would do it no problem.

No more rounded axle nuts. No busted knuckles. No damage to the car rims. No falling off jack stands.

The first time I used it to take off my rear drums I was amazed on how easy and CONTROLLED it was. When I put them back on, it was so easy, I did it twice to make sure it was right.

I used to hate removing the rear drums because all of the issues using long breaker bars, and the problem finding a large enough torque wrench to get them back on correctly. With the torque tool, is easy peasy. You can dial in how much you torque gets applied easily, with one finger.

My only complaint about the torque tool is I didn't buy it years earlier.

[mukluk]

[sjbartnik]

[TinCanFab]

[stevebaz]

The only problem I had with the Torque Multiplier was it was for standard vw lug nut threads and didn't fit the wide 5 -14 mm studs pressed into my drums on my buggy. Tried to drill it out and was a no go had to grind out the holes to fit over the studs. was impressed in the heat treatment in the steel. Its a great tool worth every Penney.

[Cusser]

[scrivyscriv]

I don’t know exactly how much torque I was putting on it but when I was tightening my 1971 bus flywheel a few years ago, I had a brain fart and attempted to torque it with the wrench set to the full torque.... using a torquemeister. I think I was over a calculated 1000 ft lbs when the gland nut snapped. That was with a 3/8” drive ratchet.

And on my 1967 bug, I forgot to break the axle nuts loose before pulling most of the rear suspension out. Using the torquemeister was almost a one-handed job on both side. You can see I’ve got the old Duralast 1/2” drive breaker bar out, but I didn’t really even need it.

It is essentially a gear reduction device. Takes a large input at low force and make a very small output at a much higher force.
Yes.. it is a tool you would need to buy or borrow. I am not saying you need one to get your axle nuts off. I am saying it makes the job simple and is worth having if you ever do the job more than once.
_________________
Robert in Memphis
Dünkelgrügen 1967 Java Green bug thread
Engine rebuild thread
If you're ever in the Memphis area, you are welcome to stop by for advice and help.

[Airstream65]

That’s funny, I did the same thing while reassembling the engine on my 67, luckily the remaining gland nut came out easily!

[Mark Evans]

[AirHead1966]

I bought the CIP1's version of the Torque Meister when I was doing the brakes. I have subsequently used it on the gland nut as well. Makes life so much easier! I am sure that breaker bars with extensions and all other methods work but personally, I would much rather do it with a tool that makes life easier for me.

[Helfen]

MAKE LIFE EASIER ! Three pages on this topic to do 60 seconds worth of work!


3/4" breaker bar, very short 3/4" extension, 3/4" 36mm socket, 5ft of 1-1/4' dia. galvanized pipe.

To remove the "rt side axle nut" place the 36mm socket on the nut with the breaker bar clocked to the front of the car, place a little grease on the breaker bar handle, slide the galvanized pipe over the handle about a foot. Place the car in neutral and roll the car forward until the pipe touches the ground. Get in, Start the car and drive forward 1 ft.. LET THE CAR DO THE WORK!!

For the left side do the same in reverse and back up instead.

So simple I can get tools and install and loosen the nut in less than 60 seconds.

[calvinater]

that sounds like it works for removal, how do you set tourque on installation?
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"Albatross"!

[lboos]

My no-snap wrench.
A friend made this for me when we worked on bug's a lot, has never failed on the rear nut's.
I think I need to clean it up and paint it, it's 30+ years old.