Switched power in the engine bay?

[jroza1]

I am installing a 2054cc in a few week and as Big Red is my daily, I want to do as much prep leading to the swap so things so smooth'ish.

I was reading the install on my Holley and it says that I need to supply a 12.6v switched power to the choke, and my fuel pump also needs 12v switched. In the past I have run both off of the coil, but the installation says to specifically NOT run the choke off of the coil. So are there any other switched lines in the bay or is there a relay I can use that would use the coil wire to take the trigger, but run off of the battery or direct from the Alternator? The voltage regulator is still in there too should I splice and solder?

Thoughts?

Josh

[airschooled]

If you're looking to instal a safety relay for an electronic pump on a carbureted rig:

http://www.itinerant-air-cooled.com/viewtopic.php?t=11380

Any 4-pin relay will work; they're usually $10 or less at FLAPS.

Pinout:
30 - battery positive (please fuse)
87 - pump positive
86 - alternator blue (df) wire
85 - ground

This way the pump will shut off when the engine stalls for any reason. If you let the car sit for months and the carb bowls drain, jump pin 30 to 87 for a few seconds to fill the bowls.

--

VW used the coil + for the choke on millions of carbureted cars. If you don't want to, just tie it into the fuel pump positive circuit.

If Big Red is a 68-71 that still has the original 38-amp voltage regulator, and you're converting to an alternator, feel free to send that "useless old voltage regulator" my way.

Robbie
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[jroza1]

Thanks! That is exactly what I m looking to do. I will probably cannibalize the alternator in my baja or see if I can cop a working one elsewhere. I have another voltage regulator in a box of parts from my baja if you want that one too...

Im not against swapping parts
_________________
I maybe slow, but I get there in the end.
1970 Bus, "Big Red"
1970 Baja "Mad Max"

[bsairhead]

Your not powering the choke off the coil, your powering the choke off of the same circuit. You could put a relay in to power the choke from the coil but unless the choke has a huge draw it is not needed.

[jroza1]

[bsairhead]

You should have 12.6v or better "with engine running" anywhere you check. If it has a high amperage draw that's different. That circuit should be protected by an 8 amp. fuse. No idea what a choke element draws nor the coil or backup lights which should all be on that circuit. I would try it from the coil, if the fuse blows i would add the relay.

[airschooled]

A) the coil + wire powered two chokes from 1972 onwards. The instructions are likely written for cars with ballast resistors, which drop coil input voltage. Air-cooled Volkswagens do not have ballast resistors, and get full system voltage at coil #15 (positive.)

B) the ignition circuitry on an air-cooled Volkswagen is not fused. Measure the resistance on your electronic choke and we can tell you if the stock wiring is up for the task.

Robbie
_________________
Learn how your vintage VW works. And why it doesn't!
One-on-one tech help for your Volkswagen:
www.airschooled.com

[bsairhead]

The ignition " circuit " is not fused but the coil power is.

[busdaddy]

[jroza1]

Thanks everyone!
_________________
I maybe slow, but I get there in the end.
1970 Bus, "Big Red"
1970 Baja "Mad Max"

[bsairhead]