Spade type Fuse holder

[Qldelsie]

Due to the kind of driving I expect to do in my Fastback (once it is finished), I wanted to change the bullet type fuseholder over to a spade type unit. Once I started looking at the original unit, I realise how clever the VW design was. With the fuses on one side (on the lower side as mounted), and all the wiring on the other (upper) side. This design enable the fuses to be accessible from below, while keeping all the wiring out of the way on the top.
All the small spade type fuses boxes that are readily available are designed for mounting on a base, with both the fuses and the wiring on the same side. This won't work on the VW - I tried mounting the new box on the firewall but it is both untidy and in the way. Finally, after about 2 weeks of sleeping on the problem (I do my best thinking while asleep !!), I came up with a design that allows the spade type box to be mounted halfway through a hole in a (self made) base plate, which then makes the fuses accessible from one side, while all the wiring stays on the other side. This can then be mounted in the same position as the original unit, but uses the more modern fuses, and I can use resettable ones if required for ease. See the photos - the box without the lid is a temporary unit - The one with the 3 fuses in is the one I will use.
The other issue was the way VW have multiple wires coming into some blade terminals, and being distributed to several different fuses. Since modern off-the-shelf units don't allow for this, it took a while (a few sleeps !) until I realised I could just split multiple wires onto 2 or 3 separate spades where necessary. Works like a charm.
Quite please with my efforts ! Car is almost ready to go to the paint shop next week, then I just have to put it all back together !!
G

[Absoluteyeti]

That's pretty awesome! I was planning on converting mine to blade style as well as I'm swapping a subaru EJ into mine. What brand of fuse blocks did you use on yours?

[Bobnotch]

[Qldelsie]

Just a commercial brand from an auto shop, Absoluteyeti. Having said that, notice the two that are different in my photo, especially when you look at the back of them. One has a solid back, whereas the other is open. The open one is the first I found, and I didn't like their "exposed" back in case of water leaking in (in a Type 3 that would never happen, of course !!). The open one is also "floppy" and cheap - the fuse holders are clipped in place but have some movement. Just not happy with them. I then found the "closed" ones, actually in a camping /boating/4WD store, and they are way more robust. Still quite cheap. No make name on them ! But since you are on the other side of the world from me, source and make would probably not help ! But I do recommend ship chandlers for lots of lovely (and quality) stuff - electrics, folding copholders, rust preventatives (boats need this !!) and lots of intriguing stainless brackets and bolts that I am always looking for a way to use just because so they so "nice" !!

Yes, Bobnotch, I am aware of the bridged power system they used - But a point well made, never the less. I was very close to reverting to the original panel - It took me several sleeps before I (non electrical as well as non mechanical) came up with the solution of dividing and joinng (and soldering) wires to enable them to cover multiple individual blades.
In reference to your second point about which bridged fuses go to which item, it answers a major question I had in my mind. I mentioned elsewhere that my April 1970 Australian built (or maybe imported fully from Germany ?) car has certain anomalies - One being that I can't find a wiring loom that agrees with the wiring in my car, so I have to use 2 different diagrams and interpolate as best I can. I have a 12 fuse holder, and in the diagram I have for a 12 fuse unit (the one from the Tech files on here titled "VW Type 3 - From August 1967 (1968 through 1970 Models)) the wire order on the fuse box is totally different from those in my car - Which may possibly explain why when I got the (non running) car, the wiring was in a mess and 4 or 5 of the fuses were blown !! I am rewiring my fuses up as they came (just as a starting poiint), but am slowly working through the internet and my brain to possibly re configure the fuse box to agree with the diagram. Either way, when I finally get to the point of testing it all, I will put NO fuses in my fuse box, will attach a battery, and insert fuses one by one in order to see what happens !!
Right now I am too busy to think about the wiring because I am trying to get the car ready to send to the paint and body work shop this week, before they shut down due to the virus !! All removable doors and panels are off the car, primed on the outside, rust proofed on the inside, while the only unprepared section of the shell is the LH A piller which has a bit of rust that needs to be cut out and rewelded before painting. Otherwise an almost rust free car - If you saw the underneath of the floor you would gasp - I plan to give it a coat of rust inhibitor paint (like POR15), but it almost doesn't need it - It is almost pristine !! It is almost a shame to disturb it !!
I will put some photos up of my car in a minute. (I can't see why I can't hijack my own thread !!
G

[Qldelsie]

Here are some pics of Clementine. To get to this stage from a non runner has been 5 months of 7 days a week work on the car. Paint next week ? Roof liner in straight afterwards, put everything back together, then engine and gearbox back in (they are already finished).
This week saw seat drama. 6 months ago had ordered 1970 fastback seat covers through Australian supplier, but sourced from TMI. (Cheaper as local supplier sends parts in in bulk, by sea). This week, with the ship still one month away, found out they were high back seat. I mentioned that my Aussie car seems to be an anomaly in many ways - Its a 1970, but has low back seat as standard ! so this week finally worked out what my seats are by talking to TMI, and have some coming airfreight. Freight is more than the product, and then the Aussie $ is at an all time low
Also got carb drama this week. My 32-34 PDSIT 2/3 carbs are quite worn, and it seems parts for these particular carbs are like hens teeth ! May have to get some of the required parts hand made
Isn't life fun ?
G

[Bryan67]

I don`t know what type of driving you plan on doing, but the stock fuses will work fine for any car.
_________________
If you`re going to do something, do it right.

[Bobnotch]

Looks like you're making great progress. Your Clementine is the RHD version of my wife's 70 Clementine Orange 70 Fastback. Although hers has LHD and high back seats, along with FI. I redid that car back in the early 90's, when there was no internet, and you catalog shopped unless you lived in SoCal. Here's a pic from 2000 of it.

_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120

[Bobnotch]

[Qldelsie]

[Qldelsie]