WW Cam + Stock 36 hp : Valvetrain/ jetting

[Bub]

Hey Guys-
I'm putting together a 54' bug, it won't be anything spectacular just a good fun driver.
I recently went through the 36hp that came with it ; seems to be a late 59' production engine possibly type 2 original originally.
Good surprise to find it was rebuilt before and still Std/std all around. However the cam had some pitting so I got the WW okrasa cam as I might do a little tweaking of this engine down the road.
Eventually I may consider the WW kit, but for now it's going to stay single port/ single carb until I find some time to build a pair of manifolds to run another carb.

Anyway- any recommendation on jetting? Running a close to perfect 28pci right now but it has a little sputter on light throttle/ cruising. Jetting is stock- but this carb came with the plastic venturi which I swapped out for the metal one.

Also- does anyone shim valve springs? Not trying to build a street motor or anything- and I read a couple other threads about it / dual springs. Just can't decide if it's worth bothering/ overkill for this.

Lastly; I've found that this cam seems to need a ton of timing advance. It drives pretty good- I'm running a br25 distributor that seems to go to about 12-17* advance (when I can get the timing light to work); but it runs like garbage without tons of advance.

TIA

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[fl59bug]

I'm sorry not to have any jetting advice, but I do have a question for you - how/who did you get to install the old cam gear on the new WW cam?

I need to buy that cam as well and I'm not looking forward to having to send the cam out to get the my -2 gear unriveted/rerivetted on the new cam.

Nice looking 36er you have there btw.

[Bub]

That’s an easy one- but in my case the cam/gear was already bolted together. I just replaced the bolts.

But all you do is drill/ dremel the rivets off the cam gear. You can take a grinder and just grind the heads of the original rivets flat and gently tap around the gear and it will separate. I always MARK CLEARLY the orientation of the gear to the cam just to avoid confusion.
The WW cam is already tapped so you just need some appropriate bolts with fairly low profile heads.
And before assembly drop the cam and oil pump in to verify clearance between your cam gear bolts and the back of the oil pump.
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[fl59bug]

[FritzCP]

check to make sure your heat riser is Clear. It does not look like the paint is dingy and burnt off the 1/2 side on yours so i would think its clogged and would cause lean Issues. Maybe try a stock distributor with the vac advance instead of the 010/br25. and also check that your advance mech isnt sticky or gummed up.

My stone stock 36er with clear manifold and vac advance runs a 122 Main and 50 idle. it runs great with only a little black in the tail pipes. I wouldnt have thought to run such a fat main would be ok, but even running non ethanol fuel, it seems todays gas dictates fatter mains than what you would think. I get 32mpg consistanly.

my .02
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Fritz Custom Products
Fritz 10 - Tin Screw Torquer
Fritz 124 - Crank Pulley Puller
Fritz 70 - 6306 Bearing Puller
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[Bub]

[FritzCP]

might be a small vacuum leak - is your carb vac port properly plugged?
or something as simple as a plugged up progression hole in the carb.
_________________
Fritz Custom Products
Fritz 10 - Tin Screw Torquer
Fritz 124 - Crank Pulley Puller
Fritz 70 - 6306 Bearing Puller
Fritz 44 - Dizzy Puller

[Bub]

[FritzCP]

maybe check the valve train. bent pushrod, rocker arm damaged, rocker shims and springs in good shape? since it seems to be cylinder specific
_________________
Fritz Custom Products
Fritz 10 - Tin Screw Torquer
Fritz 124 - Crank Pulley Puller
Fritz 70 - 6306 Bearing Puller
Fritz 44 - Dizzy Puller