Fuse Panel

[Thing68]

Trying to find a fuse panel chart for a '74, all the ones I've seen are for the '73 and even they do not all agree, at issues are position 9 and 10. On some charts 9 is for the heater and on others 10 is for the heater and the '74 does not have a heater. So what do 9 and 10 power on the '74??

[Al Capulco]

'74 owners manual says #9 is map light and cigarette lighter if you have one. #10 should be emergency flasher system. Without looking #9 sounds right not sure about #10. '74 stock fuse box should be all white fuses.

[Thing68]

Thanks Al. Interesting, I have a red (16A) fuse in the number 10 position.

[Ron Domeck]

I was thinking red fuse in #9 both 73 and 74. but I am from Kentucky so I may be wrong.

[Thing68]

Ron, I think you are right. After tearing into the panel I found that number 9 fuse is wired to the the headlight switch with 6.0 wire. The number 10 wire goes to the emergency light switch and the ignition switch. Not sure what fuse size should be but red is probably right with a 6.0 wire.

[Al Capulco]

Ron is never wrong, everybody knows that, but all I am saying is the only reason the # 9 fuse is red (16amp) is because of the gas heater. If you don't have the gas heater you don't need a red fuse. The light switch load is carried by 4 different white fuses or more, so that is not a good reason. Your not going to burn anything up with a smaller fuse, except the fuse. It doesn't work that way when you go with the larger fuse. I have had a '74 Thing for 20 years, all white fuses and no problems. The fuse panel in the owner's manual has an asterisk for the #9 fuse indicating that it need to be 16 amp but that is only because it showing the heater. Now if you have added stuff to the load of the fuses than that is a different story. Using larger fuses when they are not needed is one of the best way to burn up your wiring.
I think you are reading the wiring at the fuse box backwards. That big red wire at #9 feeds the fuse terminal and #10 terminal.

[Thing68]

The wiring diagram I'm looking at shows the big red/white 6.0 wire going to the light switch from fuse 9. The light switch then powers both headlights though the dimmer relay and the four fuses you mention. At least that is the way I read it.

[mondshine]

#9 also powers the utility socket in the right hand dash panel through a white/black wire. It's a pretty heavy wire, probably between 14 and 12 in AWG terms, and it would take quit a current draw to overload it.

If you use the utility socket, or have replaced it with a lighter socket to power accessories, go with a 16 amp (red). There is very little to fear; any direct short will zap a 16 amp fuse just as fast as an 8 amp... immediately.

And by the way, Al Capulco is correct; Ron is never wrong.

Good luck, Mondshine

[Thing68]

Thanks, from what I've read the lighter uses between 10-15 amps so a red fuse is the way to go for fuse 9. I'm still trying to figure out the lighting circuit.

[mondshine]

Thing68- Think of it this way:
There are 5 pairs of fuses in the panel (I say pairs because they are bridged on the input side).
The first pair powers the ignition circuit. Everything that is only powered with the ignition switched on (except the coil, which is un-fused) is powered by one of these two fuses. This includes brake lights, horn, wipers, etc.
The next 3 pairs are for lighting, and are powered by the headlight switch, depending on the position of the switch.
Pair #2 for the high beams (some variation of white).
Pair #3 for the low beams (some variation of yellow).
Pair #4 powers the running lights (some variation of gray).
The 5th pair is powered from the battery positive; the main artery that originates at the Terminal 30 lug on the starter. This red/white wire is bridged at the headlight switch, then continues on to the fuse panel. Everything powered by these two fuses is "full time live".

Hope that helps, Mondshine

[Thing68]

Got it, thanks. What I was missing was the big red/white wire goes to the light switch where it powers the lights and continues on to the number nine fuse to power the cig lighter and the heater (on 73s). I was reading it backward (i.e. fuse 9 powering the lights)

[Drtrash]

Is there a secret to getting the fuse box cover on? I see tabs but wont snap into slot, new after market

[Thing68]

I've never had a cover. Must have been lost years ago by a prior owner.

[ZRATTHING]

I am looking for a new style fuse pane...does anyone know who would carry an updated fuse panel so i can be more secure knowing my electrical system is safe...
Thank you
My email [email protected]

[mondshine]

Mine are home made.
For well over 20 years, I have been using the Littelfuse #350418, available at most chain auto parts stores.

Because my electrical system is no longer "stock", I use a total of 3 of these Littlefuse panels.

For the main panel on the left, two of these Littelfuse panels are linked together to make a 10 fuse panel. Strips of brass are soldered in place to link the input terminals to make 5 pairs. The brass strips were covered with "liquid electrical tape"; sort of a brush-on rubber goop.
Like this:

My friend in California made me these panel inserts with his 3D printer (Thanks again Jeff!).

One of them holds a single Littelfuse panel (for the right hand dash panel), and the other holds the two "ganged" panels (for the left hand dash panel).
The raised portion fits the opening in the steel panels

They are both attached to the dash panel with nylon screws and nuts (so that there is nothing conductive in the immediate area).

Sorry about the crappy image (it's from a video) but here's what a completed panel looks like:

In my Thing, the main panel (with 5 pairs of fuses) is set up like this:
The first pair powers the ignition circuit. Everything that is only powered with the ignition switched on (except the coil, which is separately fused) is powered by one of these two fuses. This includes brake lights, horn, wipers, etc.
The next 3 pairs are for lighting, and are powered by the headlight switch, depending on the position of the switch.
Pair #2 for the high beams (some variation of white).
Pair #3 for the low beams (some variation of yellow).
Pair #4 powers the running lights (some variation of gray).
For me, the 5th pair powers the "SU" circuit. This is stuff that's powered with the key in the ignition (whether the ignition is switched on or off). That's radio, glove box light, gas heater trigger and garage door transmitter.

The other 5 fuse panel (in the right hand dash panel) powers all of the stuff that is powered from the battery positive; gas heater main power, amp, dashboard utility socket, etc.

Long winded explanation, but hopefully helpful.
Good luck, Mondshine

[meatloaf64]

I’m putting an under the dash stereo in and trying to put a hew fuse block that will use the blade type fuses. What side is the input? Out put? It looks like I may have to locate a new panel that goes to the dash with the headlight and another knob that I’m not sure what it controls. Any help would be appreciated. I’ve got the stereo in and ran wires to an amp and speakers, has anyone else put an under dash radio?

[Semper_Dad]

Torque Resto has been producing these retrofit ATC fuse boxes for a while now. Available for 181 (Thing), and other models. Mondshine should be receiving royalties.

@Meatloaf64
I ran a separate + wire (Very heavy gauge) with 30 amp thermal fuse to a central fuse panel for all my accessories. Fog Lamps, Windshield washer, and dual 12V power panel. A left side dash panel will also fit the right side. This photo shows the orientation of each fuse panel.

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Walküre Restoration Thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=737492