1969 Sunroof Beetle pan-off resto, mechanical input please!

[mcmmd]

So, I posted early about this car and incorrectly called it a 1968! Here is a brief review. My neighbor is the original owner, took delivery of it in London, England in 1969. Drove it there for awhile, then brought it to Boston while attending a well known college there during the 70's. Then some time in the 80's brought it to Austin, where it has been since.

In 2006 and after ~140k miles, he had Austin VeeDub replace the original motor with a new 1600 dual port. Very soon after that, due to a persistent gasoline smell, they parked the car in the carport where it sat until I acquired it. As noted in some earlier posts, after tinkering with it, swapping in an 009, replacing the carb with a 34 PICT-3 from Tim at Volkzbitz, blowing out the fuel line and freeing up the "frozen" brake shoes, I drove it two doors down to my driveway.

The heater channels are toast (probably from the years in Boston) along with some other trouble areas. So I took the car up to Coachworks in Temple, TX to turn over the paint and bodywork to Teo. The help of Teo's son Alex, we pulled the body off the pan and I bought the pan back to Austin.

Any suggestions on what order to tackle the job would be appreciated. I did this to my 1959 Ragtop about 20 years ago but that job was different because I replaced/re-did everything. I am not going that extensive on this one because a lot of the parts are still good.

Just before it was parked it had new brake shoes, wheel cylinders, new or turned drums and front wheel bearings. I have already done some work on the brakes but need to replace some/all of the metal lines, reset the torsion bars, rear suspension rehab, front end work, POR-15 the pan, etc.

I am looking on advice on what ordered makes the most sense and is most efficient to do this job. I don't want to "reinvent the wheel" like I did on so much of the '59. Thanks.

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Martin
Austin, TX

[ryohey]

sounds like you are on the right path. Replace brake lines, POR-15, I use a product called rust stop. rubber bushings in rear. Trans mounts while body is off.
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69 bug restoration thread http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=387230&highlight=

[mcmmd]

Well, ok then! Thanks for the link to your project, epic! Your posts will be immensely helpful. I should have just searched the forums.
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Martin
Austin, TX

[ryohey]

Yes just do a search here. There is a wealth of information. Good luck and keep posting updates.
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69 bug restoration thread http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=387230&highlight=

[mcmmd]

So this is what I did today. Plan to rehab the rear, new A-arm bushings, new spring plate bushings, new shocks, re-index (if needed) the torsion bars to correct rear sag to stock height, newish or cleaned and re-greased CV joints, new rear bearings and seals. Am I forgetting anything?

Before I pulled the body the rear sat ~2" lower than the front. I want it back to stock and prefer not to do it with adjustable shocks. Someone said that possible just replacing the spring plate bushings without re-indexing the plates and bars might fix the sag? I don't see how that alone could make a 2+" difference.

I made some marks on the spring plates and plan to measure some angles before pulling the plates. I guess I have to unbolt the double plates to do this, correctly? I also think I need to get a spring plate tool, rig something up or do it like Chris Vallone?

Comments and tips, requested!

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Martin
Austin, TX

[mcmmd]

Moving forward! This is what I did today. Mostly working on the right side. Initial angle measurement of the spring plate is close to 20 degrees. I will do more precise measurements this weekend. I wonder if I need to re-index or just replace the bushing? I think the spec is close to 20 degrees for stock height?

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Martin
Austin, TX

[mcmmd]

I have taken off all the parts of the rear suspension. They have been degreased and wire wheeled. I am planning to have them blasted and powder coated. Anyone see anything that looks amiss? Any reason I should not use the original backing plates? They have some spots that are buggered up but overall look good.

I have several threads going on this project. Seems like I am not getting many hits here, so I started a different thread for some very specific issues. Is that discouraged? I am hoping for some more input.

Thanks y'all. Stay safe and happy 3-day weekend!

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Martin
Austin, TX

[challomoner]

Nice project I love that colour. Before you have the blasting done remove the bushings in the diagnol Arms. Then mask up everywhere you don't want blasted and coated. Ie inside the bearing housings, the holes the bushings go through. Spend some time making cardboard cuts then either bolt the cardboard on using existing bolt holes or tape it up so that it covers everything nicely. Thick powder coat in the torsion bar end caps will cause you grief when fitting new bushings.

[mcmmd]

Thanks. I was wondering about how best to cover those surfaces. I wondered if the powder coat guy would do it but doubt he would be as thorough as I would like. I will just do it.

Cobalt blue L630. Gonna stay as original as possible on the color.
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Martin
Austin, TX

[mcmmd]

So far.......

I originally thought all the pan would need was a good thorough going over with the wire wheel then POR-15 or an equal. The driver side pan was replaced in the past but a less than stellar job. So I thought maybe just some addition touch up spot welding but now I am thinking I may need to replace the "Napoleon's hat" or at least the outer ends. More close ups on that to come.

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Martin
Austin, TX

[mcmmd]

Here are some shots of my beam. I am considering a DIY overhaul of the beam. Another Samba member out of Oregon sells a complete kit with German made seals, bearings, tie rods, etc. Looks like an easy source on all the parts and seems reasonably priced. Any thoughts on whether or not I will regret trying to do this overhaul myself?

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Martin
Austin, TX

[mcmmd]

Curious about thoughts on my original steering box? Should I get a new one or keep and overhaul, re-grease!?! It seems pretty "tight".

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Martin
Austin, TX

[mcmmd]

Here are some shots of my partially disassemble body. It is at Coachworks in Temple, TX getting a "make over" by Teo. He is suggesting I get my replacement body parts from Airheads. Any thoughts? Last post today, I promise!!!

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Martin
Austin, TX

[mcmmd]

After looking over these photos, I feel a bit intimidated by the degree of cancer in this car. Wonder if all the parts I need are actually available? If I decided to abort the project at this point, I could cut my losses and not be too far in the hole???
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Martin
Austin, TX

[als72vdubbug]

I wouldn’t give up on that it doesn’t look too bad especially compared to some of our cars in the Uk.

If it were me I’d have your shop get the shell solid with new channels and sort any other rot that’s going to be difficult to do with the body on like the firewall If there is any.

Get your chassis in the best possible condition with a refreshed beam and new brake clutch and fuel lines. Give everything a really good clean up and paint before the body goes back on.

I didn’t like POR15 it flaked off for me, I used an epoxy mastic paint but you could go with an epoxy primer over bare metal and follow with raptor or stone chip paint and 2k top coat.

Good luck and keep us updated

In regards to your steering box if it’s smooth to operate and not all sloppy a clean up and lube should be all it needs! It can be too easy to go nuts and tackle everything all at once. Go step by step and build your car ground up and you won’t go far wrong. If you’ve got a solid bug that drives well you’ll get back what you sink into it in the long run

[74 Thing]

Yeah, keep your steering box and re lube it and with the body off now is the time to check the clutch cable tube and re-weld if necessary as well as any stress cracks in the tunnel by the e-brake handle and re-run fuel lines through the tunnel and a new shifter bushing.

[challomoner]

Depends what you want and how much you wanna spend. Personally I'd fix the rust, blend the repairs, fit some nice wheels and spend the rest on engine. Perhaps you are after something shiny and stock, thdn for sure you can find a solid shell for the price of a pair of heater channels and use it instead.

[mcmmd]

Thanks for the encouragement! I am pushing ahead. I ordered the body parts from Airheadsparts.com and the beam rebuild parts from vintage vw werks in Grants Pass.

I can't weld but I have a friend who can and he is going to help me with the repairs to the pan. I think I am going to go with an alternate to POR-15 but still need to figure that out a bit more.

The body work is in Teo's hands and I feel confident in his skills.

I got the steering box off today and it looks very salvageable.

Trying to take it one step at a time and not rush. As far as the $$ goes, trying not to focus on that! More updates to follow.
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Martin
Austin, TX

[challomoner]

I used epoxy 121 on my pan after blasting. Went on easy and is holding up great.

[TDCTDI]

Stop!

Brace the shell!!!

Get a welder & learn to weld, your welder buddy isn’t going to weld up all of what this car needs & you shouldn’t expect them to do so & you will be screwed when they stop showing up.


The metal work necessary on the shell will bury you if you pay a shop to do it.
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