Stuck, seized, rusted radius rod...

[VicVan]

1990 2WD Westy

Working on the front suspension, replacing all bushings. I am unable to get the radius rods to move, on either side (where the radius rod itself connects with the lower control arm (LCA). I've had no problem unscrewing the nuts on the bushing side).
What I've done so far: wire-brushed the threaded portion at the end of the control arm, where it screws into the LCA. Several squirts of PB Blaster on several locations. Applied some heat (propane torch) on the rod itself, close the threaded portion. Can't heat it up a lot, the lower ball joint is right next door.

It just won't move.

My last bet is to get a 1 1/16" wrench, instead of the 27mm I have. The 27 mm has just a little bit of play, which prevents me from putting an extender on it, by fear of rounding the rod's bolt section.

Passenger side:

Driver side:

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'90 Little Blue Truck, 2WD auto, FAS GenV 2.0 NA (AVH)

[T3 Pilot]

Remove the lower control arm from the frame so you can remove the radius rod bushings and slide a box end of the correct wrench size onto the base of the radius rod. Then you can brace the subassembly in a vise or other fixture and apply the required amount of leverage to the rod.

You have to remove the spring and shock to do this as well...
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1988 Vanagon

The most important part in every vehicle is the nut behind the wheel......

[beach_creature]

Once you remove the LCA, you can drive on top of it with the tire of a vehicle to sandwich it between the tire and ground. Then you can get good leverage on it. I’ve done this. It worked.

Edit: recommended only for the (late) cast LCA (which you have) not the stamped (early) LCA.
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84 Westy
1.9TD AAZ
5spd manual with Locking Peloquin TBD

[VicVan]

To clarify, all I'm trying to do is change the bushings. I don't need in itself to remove the rod.

If I unbolt the LCA from the frame, and remove the lower shock bolt, will it give me enough play to pull the rod back a couple of inches so I can replace the bushings?

@beach_creature, I like your technique! Since I don't have a proper vice yet, it might come in handy one day
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'90 Little Blue Truck, 2WD auto, FAS GenV 2.0 NA (AVH)

[beach_creature]

If you unbolt the LCA, I think you’re gonna have to unbolt the UCA and deal with the spring. I remember someone having difficulty trying to bolt in the LCA with the spring in place.

You could try and keep at it with the PB blaster, applying frequently for a day or two.
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84 Westy
1.9TD AAZ
5spd manual with Locking Peloquin TBD

[Abscate]

Get some fire in that, minimum two minutes with propane on the threads.

You can touch the ball joint area and let it get too hot to touch without worrying about the rubber.each time you heat, the cycle is breaking up corrosion in the threads, so 5 cycles might be needed. Hot cold, then pb blaster or, best, ATF IN ACETONE 1:1
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.ssS!

[mikemtnbike]

[VicVan]

Thanks.
I'll try the easiest heat first, heat cycles and 1 1/16 wrench, and if that doesn't cut it, well I'll take everything apart!
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'90 Little Blue Truck, 2WD auto, FAS GenV 2.0 NA (AVH)

[mikemtnbike]

If you're leaving the steering rack in place and remove the outer bushing, can't you pull the arm out of the hole by turning the wheel? I know there's a way to do this because I've replaced radius rod bushings alone when one blew out, but I just can't remember how I did it.
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1991 Vanagon GL 2.1 AT Westfauxlia. "Frankie" Totaled https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=764510&highlight=carnage
1995 Eurovan Camper "Marzivan"
2020 GTI SE manual

[VicVan]

Not sure. I did change the steering tie rod ends 2 years ago, so they shoudn't be too bad and I should be able to separate them.
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'90 Little Blue Truck, 2WD auto, FAS GenV 2.0 NA (AVH)

[T3 Pilot]

An open end wrench on that radius rod is not going to cut it. You need the full engagement of the box end. Take the assembly apart. Avoid injury to yourself, and avoid rounding off the hex component of the radius rod.
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1988 Vanagon

The most important part in every vehicle is the nut behind the wheel......

[SCM]

I removed mine with an open-end wrench using a floor jack to apply force to the wrench.
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'91 Westfalia GL Automatic (GTA "Turbo" Rebuild w/Peloquin) and 2.3L GoWesty Engine

[T3 Pilot]

Lucky...
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1988 Vanagon

The most important part in every vehicle is the nut behind the wheel......

[mikemtnbike]

Sorry for the semi-hijack... just make sure it's a super high quality wrench if you try something like that and I'd even try to figure out how to set up a shield or something. I have a good friend who lost an eye when a good quality wrench broke from two people torquing on it with an extension. Better eye protection probably would've helped him, but there's a lot of other parts to one's body.
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1991 Vanagon GL 2.1 AT Westfauxlia. "Frankie" Totaled https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=764510&highlight=carnage
1995 Eurovan Camper "Marzivan"
2020 GTI SE manual

[VicVan]

[VicVan]

Here's a nice pic of the radius rod

I'll try adding a socket on the front end, to add some more torque on it. But it's so far out from the seized thread, I'm not sure it'll help.
I'll have a go this afternoon and keep you posted.
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'90 Little Blue Truck, 2WD auto, FAS GenV 2.0 NA (AVH)

[RogerT]

I rounded the flats on the hex at the base of the radius rod, as I could only get an open spanner on there. My solution was to remove the outer rubber Bush at the front, wind the nut back on and farther down, to let me get the other nut from the other radius rod on top. Then tightened them together using the ring end of the spanner on the inner nut, and a socket on the outer nut. Tightened them with all my strength (I’m only 11 stone) with a foot on one and a breaker bar on the other. May even have slipped an extension over the spanner. Then slip the spanner off, socket back on covering both nuts, and - in the end - it gave way with a mighty crack. The tightened nuts never moved, but the rod soaked up 1/8 of a turn in twist I reckon.

[VicVan]

Roger, Thanks for the suggestion. I might give it a try too.
Something confuses me: I understand that you put the two nuts as far back as possible (i.e. closer to the lower control arm)? If so, how did you slide the ring end of the spanner? I'm not able, because the radius rod sticks out 2 or 3 inches out of the suframe mounting hole, towards the front of the van.
Or do you put both nuts at the front? That would make more sense.
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'90 Little Blue Truck, 2WD auto, FAS GenV 2.0 NA (AVH)

[VicVan]

Kinda stuck here.

I am not able to unscrew the radius rod from the lower control arm. I've tried different things mentioned above, without success.

Before I give up, there is one last thing I can try. What if I unbolt different things so I can have some play on the lower control arm, so I can move it backwards for the radius rod to clear the subframe mounting point, and then I remove the inner bushing.
I am thinking of removing:
- schock lower bolt
- lower control arm to frame bolt (I have to change the bushing anyway)
- Upper control arm to steering knuckle

1/ will the spring be a problem if I do this? I tried raising the LCA a bit, with a jack, in order to remove the shock lower bolt, all it did was lift the van. I am afraid I won't be able to compress the spring back in place.
2/ The real question is will removing all these bolts give me enough play in the LCA to pull it backwards 3 inches?

Thanks for your input.
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'90 Little Blue Truck, 2WD auto, FAS GenV 2.0 NA (AVH)

[Jake de Villiers]