Walkure Down! Phoenix Rising (Rebuild Thread)

[Semper_Dad]

So I'm trying to sort out the vacuum lines and the more I research, the more confused I get.

What we have here is a mostly stock 1600 AM dual port engine with a DVDA distributor and 34 PICT 3 carb. I'm going to go ahead and delete the EGR valve. I'll make up and install blanking plate. Keeping the oil bath air cleaner with all its plumbing (thermostat and vacuum valve).

There are three ports:
1) Carburetor driver's side
2) Carburetor rear
3) Intake manifold

There are three destinations:
1) Distributor Advance
2) Distributor Retard
3) Air Cleaner Vacuum (Thermo switch)
4) EGR Valve (removed)

Currently I have it hooked up this way
Carburetor driver's side to Distributor Advance via shepherd's hook
Carburetor rear to Distributor Retard
Intake Manifold to Air Cleaner (Thermo Switch)

Is this correct? what did the EGR valve hook up to? Am I missing another port that needs to be plugged?
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Walküre Restoration Thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=737492

[kenj06]

Sorry for the loss but looks like you are making them best of it. Thank you for sharing the story as I decided to replace my worn out carb and made sure I bought one with screwed in inlet fitting.
The one I bought has a vacuum port on the rear right side near the base of the carb and from pictures I've been looking at, I believe that is where the EGR vacuum comes from.

https://kubeltreffen181.com/gallery/vw-things-and-transmissions/#gallery_fancybox-57
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1689016.jpg
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=686016

You have the rest of the connections correct from my perspective.

[Semper_Dad]

The saga continues:

Still looking for a paint and body person. Most (if not all) professional places don't want to take on something like this. They would rather take the quick and easy cash and work collisions and insurance. Some don't understand that I'm not looking for a concours level of work. I like seeing my spotwelds and low gloss paint. A single stage enamel is fine for me. Wet sanding? Clear coat?,...come on guys,....It's a utility vehicle.

Been thinking about using Raptor Bedliner in the front trunk and rear deck area. I'm a bit concerned about using it in the engine bay. I'm afraid it might be harder to keep clean due to the texture. Anybody have any experience with the stuff. Looks to be DIY friendly.

That being said,.. I started some of the gruntwork myself. Hope I'm not exacerbating my issues any further. Took a leap at the engine bay, air-boxes, and rear of the car. De-greased, power-washed, and then sanded down as best as I could with a palm sander. Figure this was mostly fire and smoke damaged areas so it had to come off anyway. Accomplished all this in about 4 hours. There has got to be a better way. Anybody have any luck with any type of media blasting?

Under the "While you are at it" category I removed an aluminum patch under the battery tray. It was there when I bought the car some 10 years ago. Cut back the rust cancer to solid metal. Waiting for the replacement panel before doing the final fit and trim.

Don't worry, pan will be getting a coat of POR, Master Series or Rust Bullet
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Walküre Restoration Thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=737492

[mondshine]

Have you considered one of those mobile soda blasting services?
It might be a quick way to get the body & chassis clean so that you can plan the next step.

The "cargo area" behind my back seat was painted with a textured material before the final paint. I think it was made for rocker panels, etc. It was a Sikkens product; my car was painted at a VW dealership (in 1983), and their body shop used all Sikkens stuff.
Anyway, once the textured stuff is overpainted, it is no harder to clean than the smooth areas (what few smooth areas remain after ~40 years).
Good luck, Mondshine


Link

[Just_Me]

I had the same experience trying to get any regular body shop to do my body work (this was with the body completely stripped, and detached from the pan).

Nobody would touch it, apparently the body shop guys work on a form of commission, and they want easy in and out work, no restorations. One guy quoted me $50,000. (The car has just a spot of rust, and no damage). I just walked out, if he cant give me the courtesy of just saying "no" then I wont bother saying goodbye as I walked out.

I eventually found a small bodyshop guy to do the bodywork and paint, But its been stuck with him for a year, and there is always an excuse.

[Semper_Dad]

[KAmes]

Mine was painted by my next door neighbor, who works in a body shop for a living. It's the same story at his shop, they mostly do insurance work. Because of that though the owner doesn't mind employees doing their own side projects. He did a lot of the work including painting the inside with single stage in his garage next door. Then on a weekend we trailered the car in to use the paint booth, Saturday afternoon and many of the other employees were there working on their own side projects. Skilled people are out there, maybe one of the shops can direct you to someone. I did paint a car myself once, mixed results, I didn't totally embarrass myself.

[mondshine]

It seems to me that, once your car is put back together, a nice "shakedown" drive to Kubel Treffen East 2021 would be in order.
Always nice to meet Samba comrades in person.

[Semper_Dad]

[BJT]

How far are you from Chicagoland? There are a couple of metal shop / body shops that work on classic VWs.

[Semper_Dad]

[Ron Domeck]

Semper, were in IN are you? My son lives in Indy

[Semper_Dad]

[Semper_Dad]

Walkure SitRep

First thing today I fabricated an EGR blanking plate out of some thick aluminum. Made a template using the paper doll and rub method. I didn't have a jigsaw so I hand cut it with my hacksaw then cleaned it up on the bench grinder. Drilled a couple of oversized holes and BAM!, EGR Blank off plate!

Continued the deconstruction process by getting the doors all naked. Outside and inside handles, door stops and striker plates all removed. All of these parts will get a good de-greasing and relub before re-installation. Missing some door handle seals so those were ordered. Tore some of the door seals during removal but I think they are repairable with a little rubber cement.

So here's the shocker, Started removing and protecting items in prep for blasting. After seeing what condition the wiring was in, decieded it would be better to replace the wiper, and instrumentation harnesses. Too many cracks and bare wires. Main harness was already on the replace list. Brake harness and front lighting harness looked good.

Dash pods and associated wiring pulled. Tore 2 of those $4 dash panel hinge bushings during removal .

Glove boxs door, upper dash pad, and defrost ducts removed without loss of blood (but my vocabulary is getting more diverse).

Steering column also removed. Note to self: Do not reinstall column until AFTER electrical install has been done.

Still to do:
Remove speedo cable
Remove pedal cluster
Remove washer nozzle and tubing
Wrap exposed harnesses in protective cover in prep for blasting


Blaster guy came over for dustless blast estimate. Took a lot of photos. Will get back to me shortly. Actually I think he went to make a steak and lobster dinner reservation in anticipation of my business. One of his concerns was blasting the windshield frame with the glass still installed. Informed him that me breaking the glass while removing it has about the same odds as him blasting the frame. I opted to hand sand windshield frame with my orbital. Not done, just a couple of test passes with the orbital.

Still need to:
Remove front bumper
Remove headlights and turn signals
Protect wiring from blaster

Carry on,......
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Walküre Restoration Thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=737492

[jakokombi]

Hey Semper, nice work. I replaced the glass in mine and found it to be pretty simple except for the one rust frozen screw.
Just thinking that everything you are about to do might be easier with the glass out.

What color are you going with?
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70 Sunroof Kombi
85 Motherfukinvanagon
73 Thing
72 Baja

[Semper_Dad]

[jakokombi]

Coyote Brown and black, should look great on a Thing.

I think the yellow looks too washed out for my taste, luckily somewhere along mine got painted canary yellow, Rust-oleum apparently .
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70 Sunroof Kombi
85 Motherfukinvanagon
73 Thing
72 Baja

[Semper_Dad]

Short of removing body from chassis, you can't any more naked than this (But that's still an option).

Fenders removed. Hood removed

Sent a couple of panels to the powder coats for a test. Have to say I was very pleased with the result. Not a topcoat but a zinc primer powdercoat. Supposed to be able to throw a topcoat over it.

The decklid is the original fire damaged decklid. You can see signs of warpage along the top. May do some experimentation with some powder coat friendly filler.

[mondshine]

It seems to me that I remember a warning about the front beam being sensitive to the heat required for powder coating. Whether it was internal bushings being wrecked, or what... I can't remember.
Hopefully others will comment on this before you bake the body.

[Glenn]

If it has roller bearings it's OK, but if it has poly bushings, they need to be removed.

It truly is a "bucket" car
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Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"

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