advantage to plugging two side port to doghouse?

[Luff]

Hello all, I’ve only had Little Ruby (65 Sedan) for a couple of months now. We’ve sorted through a host of issues and surprises. We’ve come to a junction Where everything is just going too darn smooth, so I figured it’s time to pull the engine and get after that nasty oil leek between 3&4 cylinders. I was kind of wanting to wait for a winter project but moving cardboard around was getting way too monotonous.
I should point out here Little Ruby has 67 1500 engine ID must be an H because
VW didn’t make an II. I’m guessing 40 hp and not 53hp. When I pulled the doghouse to see if the flaps would still function (I had already noticed there was no thermostat) they were gone also. Here the part that’s strange, the two side ports that feed the heat exchanger are plugged and the nice aluminum foil tubes are in place. Newish plastic bellows in place with the heat exchanger control valves hooked up.
I’m I missing something here with this set up. I’m not planning on winter driving. The heat exchangers are pretty rough so I’m thinking about a delete with an upgraded exhaust but I still want to do the thermostat and flaps. I know as rudimentary as it is it has to help regulate the temperature of the engine especially when it’s a cold engine.
Any suggestions or is this a better setup?

[finster]

I suspect you are mis-using the term 'doghouse' and mean fan shroud instead. the doghouse refers to the later design fan shroud (1971) which moved the oil cooler out of the main airflow and can be recognised by the oil cooler housing bulge (doghouse) on the front left of the shroud.

the best engine cooling set-up is stock, so I would suggest finding and fitting thermostat and flaps.
similarly, the ports that feed air to the heat exchangers are designed to have air flowing out of them - even when the heater is off. if they are plugged there is the possibility of disrupting the airflow inside the fan shroud and affecting the cooling efficiency.
so again - stock set-up is best. it is what vw spent time and money developing...
_________________
"we're here on Earth to fart around" kurt vonnegut

nothing lasts, nothing is finished, and nothing is perfect...

[anthracitedub]

As long as the heater boxes are solid and not leaky, I’d certainly clean them up, paint them and keep them... even a little whisper of heat on a frosty WVA morning would be a delight.
Sounds like someone just capped off the airflow but still kept most of the system there... with that being said and the fact that your getting ready to fix that oil leak... it would be prime time to get that thermostat system complete and working before you place the engine back in the car.
As rudimentary as it seems, they work great and your engine will love it!
Too bad so many people pulled these systems off and scrapped them... I always put full systems on my engines.

[Luff]

Thanks for thee correction Finster. My last Beetle was in 1976 I’ll be catching up with terms for a while. I do appreciate your patience.
Having said that the heat boxes are junk, anthracitedub. I priced out new ones and I’m just wondering if my money wouldn’t be better spent going with j-pipes and rebuilding the flap and thermostat setup. The tin needs redone, never completed. I have a new engine bay seal kit.
From what I can find here the freeze plugs that were used is a decent mod. But as in all forums it’s all about opinions.
Little Ruby had a rebuild complete with a Maaco paint job in 2004. She got fenders and floor pans then but she needS a rear apron. That will be my winter project so I don’t mind changing to a different muffler setup.
As you point out new heater boxes could be nice but it’s really not a factor for me.
Ultimately I’d like to lower her and super her up. You gotta start somewhere!

[anthracitedub]

I understand your desire to get the heater boxes outta there... I’ve got a car with j pipes and one with heat... I like the heat😀. Even though I don’t drive it in the muck, I still drive it when it’s cold.
Good on you for putting the t stat system back in the car... it’ll make your engine happy.

[ashman40]

Found a nice page which details how the air flows inside the fan shroud.
http://www.volksbolts.com/faq/cooling.htm
You can see that 20% of the air flow coming out of the rotating fan goes to the heat exchangers (10% per side).

There is a long argument over plugging the heat exchanger output ducts on the fan shroud and does it create issues, or not. The only one I know who has done actual measurements and not just assumed plugging does no harm is Jake Raby. His suggestion, lost in VW thread was to drill a small (1/2"?) hole in the fan shroud plugs to allow a small amount of air to flow thru the ducts. This simulates the closed heat exchanger flaps which still vent air to prevent the heat exchangers from overheating. Even if you remove the exchangers the stock fan was still designed to flow air thru the ducts. If you completely block off the ducts the air flowing inside the shroud has no where to go and creates turbulence. According the Jake, this reduces the effectiveness of the fan shroud and the air flowing out the bottom.
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AshMan40
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[Luff]

Interesting Ashman40, judging from the link there is a lot to consider with a complete heat exchanger delete. One thing for sure, whatever I end up doing it’s got to be better than what the last few Owners before did for her car.
Transaxle only had about 12 ounces of hypoid oil in it. After a good flush and top off I can’t even find a leak. I can’t believe all her synchros are still good. Go figure!
I thought while I got the engine out for cooler seals, etc. I’d like to change out the main pulley for a fully calibrated job make everything easier. The old one only had 7.5 & 10 degrees BTDC notched and that’s it. I got it about 1/4 inch off the shaft and it’s stooped. Been working on it for a couple of hours. I must be doing it wrong. Anyone no the trick. The pulley is just under 7 inches.
Thanks for any suggestions.

[Luff]

After absorbing the information in Ashman40 link I’m considering modifying the two plugs. Thanks Ashman for the link, obviously a lot of German engineering went into the smallest details of their design.
anthracitedub, You mentioned having bugs, with and without heat. While trying too figure out how to satisfy air flow for cooling and doing a heat exchanger delete, I’m running into them same problems with air flow. I found a used flap and thermostat assembly with all connecting linkage so it looks like my best bet would be new heater boxes to get the air moving properly.
There is a domino effect with this because while the muffler is good it was previously welded on on side to the heater box and I fear it may ultimately end up needing replaced also. Thank you Graig’s List
I guess I just can’t visualize what type of exhaust system is out there that will allow for cooling and not let fumes into cabin, except stock. If there is one please someone send me the a link. Thanks.