Alternative to band clamps for heater box connections?

[Who.Me?]

I had to replace my exhaust during my engine build because it fouled the new oil filter that I fitted.

The replacement has the typical aftermarket exhaust fitment issues. I fixed most of them, but one problem I still have is sealing the connections to the little 'pips' that surround the tubes from the rear exhaust ports (red arrows in the pic below).

The pips aren't the correct shape. If I get the outlet connections below sealed up to the heat exchanger, the inlet connections above don't line up with the holes in the rear valance tin, even if I jam the adaptor tube in at an extreme angle.

I can fiddle it so I can lock everything in place and connect the input tubes from the fan shroud through the rear tin, but only by leaving a gap at the connection between the pips and the heat exchangers below.

Are there any solutions other than the band/strap clamps that come with the various fitting kits (e.g. flexible high temperature silicone tubing, or extra-wide band clamps) that can bridge the gap and take up the offset?

Pic borrowed from JustKampers' website...

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Andy


Looking for info on my truck's history. Are you from Campbell California or nearby. Do you recognise it? ... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=636786

[Eric&Barb]

Connect the HEs to the heater bubbles of the exhaust. Drop the rear engine tin back in place and See how far off the holes in the heater bubbles are. Remove the rear tin and cut around each of the upper holes in the heater bubbles so when turned 180 degrees the holes are offset enough to match up to the holes in the rear engine tin. Tack weld and test alignment to the rear engine tin holes, adjust as needed till it works. Weld the cut out areas back in place now aligned to the rear engine tin holes and enjoy. BTDT.

Other possibility is to see if the old heater bubbles off your old muffler will fit and align. Have not tried that personally.

Also if one lives somewhere the weather turns near or below freezing. Tack weld the lower half section to the muffler pipe after you get it connected to the HE. Then remove the upper half of the bubble. Weld in steel nails (Used nails are fine) onto the pipe for that much more ability to pull heat out of the exhaust flowing out of #2 & 4 cylinders. Cut or bend nails so you can fit the top half of the bubble back on.
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[Who.Me?]

Thanks Eric

I had this rear tin powdercoated while I was building the engine and I sold the old exhaust to help pay for the new one

I did wonder about relocating the tinware holes cutting and rotating seems sensible. At least no one will see the damage where it is.

I'm surprised that no one has made a bigger flexible band clamp though.

Cheers

Andy
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Andy


Looking for info on my truck's history. Are you from Campbell California or nearby. Do you recognise it? ... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=636786

[Eric&Barb]

Problem is the two opening to be connected together are too close for any flexible hose. Even if it was done, it would result in less air flow thru there.

Did also remember since last post that one should fit in the tubes that the fresh air hoses from the shroud connect to, into the exhaust heater bubbles, before any cutting/welding. Makes for much better alignment of those upper tubes that actually pass thru the rear engine tin holes.
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[ted698]

I also had this issue - recently I had my engine out and I spent some quality time making the heater 'bubbles' fit - I unfolded the seams and removed them - then beat them into a shape that fitted - I had to significiantly reshape them, the one side more than the other - then recrimped the seams - I had to cut bits off as the seams were too big.
They simply do not fit/align with either the Corrugated Pipe adapters or the Heat Exchanger entrance tubes on the underside - on mine, even with the wide HE Collar bands as tight as I could get them they would still come loose/not seal - my bands were tight on the exhaust bubble, but loose on the HE, I cheated slightly and wrapped the top of the HE with aluminium tape to add some thickness so they at least matched in diameter.
After a LOT of work I did get them to fit in a fashion (well much better anyway), and much tighter against the pipe, as I must have been losing a lot of blown air through the very loose pipe fit - I think they purposely make them loose on the pipe to try and make up for the appalling fitment, a little 'jiggle' room if you will.

Basically the aftermarket exhausts are shite - I don't know what model they fashioned the fitment of the tin HE bubbles on but I don't think it was a VW - hahahaha