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My beam project- narrowing a ball joint beam for my 67 SC
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jeffreyned
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 12:10 am    Post subject: My beam project- narrowing a ball joint beam for my 67 SC Reply with quote

I've read up on Jeremyrockjock's how-to thread and other threads on narrowing a beam. I decided to post some pics of my efforts to duplicate what others have done. Probably not a lot of new information here, just pics of how I'm doing it.

I'm happy to hear suggestions and alternative ways of doing things. I'm a visual kind of guy, so I like pictures. Hopefully these pics will help others.

*Edit: As I work on this project I realize it would be much simpler to either buy a pre-built beam, or the BYOB kit Wagenswest sells. But, I'm enjoying the process and learning a lot as I go. It does take a lot of time and borrowing of tools. If you're just looking to lower your bus and the end result is what your focus is, then I think you'd be happier buying what's available in the classifieds by the many people much more talented than me. Wink
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jeffreyned
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 12:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I removed the shocks and tie rods from a 75 beam I'm using for my SC.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

VW narrowed beam project by [email protected], on Flickr

I decided to narrow the beam from the outside. I'll be cutting 2" off each side for a 4" narrowed beam.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

VW narrowed beam project by [email protected], on Flickr
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jeffreyned
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 12:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I removed the spindle using a pickle fork air chisel attachment. (There are certainly other ways to do this that are easier on the rubber boots, but this is how I did it)

Then I cut off the bump stop to make it easier to remove the arms and leaves:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

VW narrowed beam project by [email protected], on Flickr
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jeffreyned
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 12:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did as Jeremy suggested and left one side connected to the leaves so that I could pull them out of the tubes. It worked like a charm.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

VW narrowed beam project by [email protected], on Flickr
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jeffreyned
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 12:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I took the cups off the end:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

VW bus beam by [email protected], on Flickr

And used a length of rebar to tap the needle bearings out:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

VW narrowed beam project by [email protected], on Flickr

The needle bearings are approximately 56.96 - 57mm outer diameter

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

VW bus beam by [email protected], on Flickr
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jeffreyned
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 12:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Then I hacked off the outside half of the stock side plate. I did one side using an angle grinder and cutting wheels, and the other using a friend's plasma cutter. Either way works, both take time and patience. Neither way was nearly as quick and easy as I would've liked.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Narrowing VW bus beam by [email protected], on Flickr

I just cut the upper piece where the shock mounts off.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Vw bus narrow adjustable beam build by [email protected], on Flickr

I cut off the weld that holds the bump stop to the inner piece from the other side of the side plate.

Once that outer piece and the bump stop are removed, you can see that you can cut off 2 inches from the end pretty easily.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

VW narrowed beam project by [email protected], on Flickr

The idea, as others have pointed out, is to avoid having to cut out piece/s from the middle of the beam and having to remove the stabilizer and other pieces mounted towards the center of the beam.

I measured in 2" and used tape as a guide to know where to cut:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

VW narrowed beam project by [email protected], on Flickr
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 12:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can see how the outer end of the beam has been reamed out a little to accommodate the needle bearing and the outer cup.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

VW narrowed beam project by [email protected], on Flickr

You can either choose to figure out how to ream out the beam after you cut this piece off, so that you can use your bearings again, or use polyurethane bushings. (I haven't decided on this part of my build yet, I'm not wild about spending so much time fussing with a die grinder, and worry that the bearing wouldn't seat right because I would be too imprecise). I'm leaning towards using bushings.
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 12:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I then used some thin cardboard (cereal box) to start making my template for the side plates.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Vw bus narrow adjustable beam build by [email protected], on Flickr

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Vw bus narrow adjustable beam build by [email protected], on Flickr

Then I made a pressboard template from that and made sure my holes were in the right place. I'm going to go ahead and drill my side plates for both split and bay bus mounting, just in case I switch it out later to my other bus.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

VW bus side plates by [email protected], on Flickr
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 12:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I borrowed my buddy's plasma cutter again and rough cut the side plates out of 1/4" steel plate. I know others use thicker plate, I'm hoping that because I'm keeping the inner half of the stock side plate that it will be strong enough.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

VW bus side plates by [email protected], on Flickr

I had to "fine tune" the side plate a bit using a die grinder and other handy air tools so that it would fit, and then I used my template and some primer to mark where the holes need to be drilled:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

VW bus side plates by [email protected], on Flickr
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 12:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's where I'm at so far with the narrowing and side plates. I have a bunch of pics I took of how I installed the adjusters, but I think that's been covered so well by others that I'm not sure it would be worth posting them.

Do you guys think this thread is useful? I know it's pic heavy, but like I said, I'm a visual person and I like seeing things step by step, so I'm thinking others might as well.

Happy to hear feedback on this thread.
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 4:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

so, correct me if i am wrong.. you are doing ths to lower your 67 split sc ? Confused
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 11:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes this is for my 67 single cab. Not only would I like to lower it, but I want disc brakes too. I'm not much into speeding, but I'm still a big fan of being able to stop when I want or need to. After I get this beam done and installed I'll be converting to IRS in the back with 944 parts and disc brakes back there too.

My goal is to lower it moderately, not slam it. By narrowing the beam I can use adapters to go back to wide 5 stock wheel and still have room under there.
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 9:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You will probably be disappointed in how low you are able to go with BJs. They will ultimately limit how low you can go. They will bind up pretty quickly when you get down there. I had a '68 BJ beam with '73 spindles on my '62 DC. At what I thought was moderate drop, the ride was really harsh on rough roads due to the BJs. I ultimately went with Oldspeed dropped spindles and got about where I wanted. Not dumped, just low. Here it is with about 1 1/2" of travel before the BJs limited the travel.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

The steering box became the problem then. Good Luck!
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 10:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Be really careful with the needle bearing !!! Busted mine n now i cant find a replacement !!! Does anybody have a pair for sale ?
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 6:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome job buddy. There are much to be learned here. Keep us posted.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 8:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

[email protected] wrote:
Be really careful with the needle bearing !!! Busted mine n now i cant find a replacement !!! Does anybody have a pair for sale ?


Nate at Wagenswest sells some on his website. I think they're like 18 bucks a piece.

I actually didn't notice until later that I dinged mine up a little bit on the inside edge from the rebar. Probably better to use a slide hammer like Jeremy did. I would have done that, but couldn't find a washer big enough to put on the inside.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 9:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Cru62. That's good to know. I didn't have any pics to consult before making the decision. I had read up quite a bit and knew that the ball joint beam would actually raise the front an inch and half or so, but felt I could compensate with the adjusters and still get it down by 4 inches or so overall. So I guess I'll see what happens. I may end up having to get, or learn to fab, some drop spindles for it as well.

I'm planning on an irs conversion for the rear, which I gather should effect approximately 3 inch drop, or thereabouts. So ideally, I'd like to have the front match that.

When you said the ball joints limited travel, do you mean the tie rods hitting the frame? I'm not sure I understand what you said.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 9:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When the trailing arms angle up , when you lower it, the ball joints could run out of there limit to move. They bind inside the ball part
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 9:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

demon1018 wrote:
When the trailing arms angle up , when you lower it, the ball joints could run out of there limit to move. They bind inside the ball part


Ok, that makes sense. I'll be on the lookout for that. I suppose I could look at raising the beam... but that seems like it would be a headache. Anyone done a beam raise?
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 9:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

cru62 wrote:
You will probably be disappointed in how low you are able to go with BJs. They will ultimately limit how low you can go. They will bind up pretty quickly when you get down there. I had a '68 BJ beam with '73 spindles on my '62 DC. At what I thought was moderate drop, the ride was really harsh on rough roads due to the BJs. I ultimately went with Oldspeed dropped spindles and got about where I wanted. Not dumped, just low. Here it is with about 1 1/2" of travel before the BJs limited the travel.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

The steering box became the problem then. Good Luck!


Is this pic before the drop spindles? If so, I think I could live with it at that height. I have a steep driveway and can't really dump it unless I use airbags or a hydraulic system like Demon1018's.
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