Replacing Fuel Lines and Fuel Line Research - with Pictures

[SyncroHead]

I replaced the fuel lines in my 1989 Westy last week. I’d bought the GoWesty kit to do this a few years ago, but then looked more closely at the lines and decided they had already been replaced by the previous owner.

Taking another look at it more recently, I found that a couple of the hoses (tank to pump, and plastic to firewall fitting) had not been changed and also wanted to get rid of the plastic firewall fitting. So, I decided to replace them to assure myself they were the right quality lines and know for certain when the replacement was, and that everything was replaced.

Fuel Line Research:
I found that some fuel lines, from reputable makers don’t meet the current standards for permeability. Specifically the SAE J30R9 standard.

A good friend of mine had an occasional faint fuel odor when he parked inside his garage and had his lines changed only a couple months ago with Continental N202011 fuel hose. The shop re-used the plastic abrasion protection sheaths to cover the new lines. But, after the replacement there was still a faint gas odor that was noticeable when the vehicle was in the still air of his garage. Using an electronic “sniffer” system to detect HCs, they found the greatest HC density at the end of the plastic sheath that covers the lines. Not at the fittings, or clamps, but right at the end of the sheath. The conclusion is that while we tend to think of these new rubber lines as completely sealed, there can be some permeability that allows migration through the hose. Once outside the hose, the vapor can travel inside the sheath to the open air. Vans parked outside, or owner’s that don’t have a keen sense of smell may never notice.

Note, that Samba member tech032 commented that this Continental/Contitech part# N202811 I Speaking of a response from Continental:
“finally got a reply from Continental (CRP) in regards to their fuel hose part N202811, or labeled "made in germany 7x3" NBR

"They stated that E10 fuels do not damage NBR materials but that only a “stronger” swelling takes place. They also stated that the hose will last for a standard vehicle lifetime."And, "They did state that this hose is not J30r9 or J30r7 compliant".
Post: “Metal Fuel rails.. GoWesty? VanCafe? Others?” October 9, 2017.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8563627&highlight=tech032#8563627

Tech032 also noted that “You can smell the fuel that permeates the pre 30r9 hose, but you can’t on the new standard hose.” I interpret his comment as: “If a hose meets the new SAE J30R9 standard, you cannot smell fuel permeating the hose.”

I was pleased to find that the GoWesty kit I was currently installing included COPRO’s COHLINE 2240 Low Permeability hose.

Some specs from the COHPRO website for the 2240 hose:
https://www.cohpro.com/low-pressure-hose-and-fitti...-2240.html
Suitable for:
Petrol in mixture with Methanol 0-100%
Petrol in mixture with Ethanol 0-100%
Petrol in mixture with Butanol 0-100%
Diesel in mixture with Rapeseed Methyl Ester (RME) 0-100%
Diesel in mixture with Hydro Treated vegetable Oils 0-100%
Diesel in mixture with Fatty Acid Methyl Esters (FAME) 0-100%
Diesel in mixture with Soya Methyl Ester 0-100%

Application and temperature range for 2240.
Suitable for commercial fuels (inc. ethanol) and Bio-diesel containing Rapeseed Methyl Ester (RME Fuels), To DIN 73379-3E
-40°C to +125°C, Short Term to 140°C

Additional Standards
VW TL 524 24
SAE J30R9
GME 08 007
DBL 6256.70
BMW GS 93010

It’s apparently the SAE J30R9 specification that defines the standard for low permeation, at least in the USA.
Based on the Goodyear website, the SAE J30R9 seems to originate from California Air Resources Board (CARB), and is about fuel permeation:
“SAE J30R9 is CARB approved (C-U-06-011) with a maximum fuel permeation of 15 g/m2/day at 40°C.” https://www.goodyearrubberproducts.com/2012pdfs/Go...ge0032.pdf


My Fuel Line Replacement:
This van is a 2WD 1989 Westy.

I got both the rubber hose kit and the plastic line kit from GoWesty.
https://www.gowesty.com/product/fuel-delivery/4393/engine-fuel-line-replacement-kit?v=
and
https://www.gowesty.com/product/-/23642/hard-plastic-fuel-line-replacement-kit-?v=

New fuel rails from Van Café:
https://www.vancafe.com/025133317BILLET-p/025133317billet.htm

New Marco Mansi fuel injectors:
https://mansispeed.com/

And the new abrasion sheathing (100 FEET) from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074GP12FX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use this stuff for wiring and other projects, so $15 for 100ft is a pretty good deal. Recommended.

At first I was hesitant about the GW kit because it used the crimp-on connectors and it needed a special tool for that. In the end, I decided these would be the very best crimps and it would be worth it to go this route. I’m happy with this choice.

Part of the project also included replacing the injectors as well, so first I made up “assemblies” of the new rails and new injectors before installing.

Here's the assembly before I realized I'd put the clamping brackets on upside-down:

Next, I removed both pairs of fuel injectors as assemblies. Since this exposed the holes for the fuel injectors to dirt and debris around these holes, I recommend blowing the dirt & dust away before removing the old injectors.

To remove the fuel lines I discovered a “new” tool. I highly recommend this “cheap” $10 tool as it must have saved me more than an hour I would have otherwise spent pulling, slitting, twisting and tugging at the old lines.

It’s a hose separator tool:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G5QSQFQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Highly recommended! Wished I’d had this years ago.

After the injector assemblies were out, I proceeded hose-by-hose, one at a time. I removed the hose, laid out it’s curved length along the new hose and cut the replacement to the same length. I put two lengths (about 1.25” each) of shrink-wrap tubing onto the sheathing to cover each end once assembled, Then I applied the abrasion sheathing to the hose. I found that for this size tubing, the length of the sheathing “shrinks” about 25% when its diameter is expanded to go around the fuel line, so remember to cut it about 20% longer than the hose. After the sheathing and the shrink-wrap on each end, about 1” of bare hose was exposed for the clamps.

When installing each length of fuel line, I placed a plug into the leading end, since many of these lines are AFTER the fuel filter and anything caught in them would go directly into a fuel injector. Also, remember to place a clamp onto the line before pressing it onto a fitting.

One-by-one, two lines feeding the injectors from the T and two lines returning to the pressure regulator. Another from the firewall to the T and the return line from the regulator back to the firewall. Pretty straightforward.

Used this very nice Knipex brand tool to crimp the “Oetiker” clamps.
https://www.amazon.com/Knipex-Tools-10-99-i220/dp/B01I3H6UIC?ref_=ast_sto_dp

Plastic Line Replacement, Fittings, Grommets, and Clamps:
Next, I debated about the need to replace the plastic lines. After removing the old and “almost ready to crack” plastic firewall fitting, I found that on the forward side of the firewall is a section of rubber hose about 3” long before it transitions to the plastic line. So, in the original configuration, there are TWO clamped junctions in a difficult to see and difficult to access spot above the starter and forward of the firewall. One clamp is used between the firewall fitting and the hose and then another clamp between the hose and the plastic line. Not wanting to leave it this way, I decided that using the new plastic line kit was very useful after all. I cut the new plastic line about 5” longer than the original and ran it through the hole in the firewall so that the plastic-to-rubber transition would now be easily accessible. I put the GoWesty supplied grommet into the firewall home and then pushed a couple of inches of fuel line over the plastic tubing to additionally isolate it from wear in this spot.

Note that pressing the metal barbed adapters into the plastic line requires a bit of force and is best done while the line is out of the vehicle instead of after it’s installed. Remember to slide the crimp clamp onto the tube BEFORE the barbed adapter. Only one thing was irritating about replacing the plastic supply line, it that it was clamped to the brake-line distribution T which is above the main coolant lines, above the heater lines and above the shifter rod. It’s easy to see but difficult to access, I got the old line out OK, but then had to remove the shifter bracket and drop the rearward part of the linkage to gain access to re-install.

I replaced the large diameter hose between the tank and the pump with a full tank of gas, trying to spill the least practical. I got a plug ready to fit the old hose and positioned myself at arm’s length from the pump. I got the hose smoothly 90% off the pump with the new hose separation pliers. Then slipped it off the pump and put the plug in within about a second. Put the new hose on the pump, then swapped out the end at the tank, hardly spilling any. That is, until I forgot the hose was full of gas and just laid it down. Oops!

Fuel Injector Wiring:
When I was about to reconnect the fuel injector wiring, I noticed that the wires pass by the edge of the mounting bracket that holds the air filter box. There was no wire chafing apparent, but took an extra few minutes to add an “edge grommet” to the bracket just to be safe.

The Old Hoses:
After removing the old hoses, I pulled off the original plastic sheathes to see what the old hoses were. Turns out that the hoses in the engine compartment had indeed been replaced by the previous owner, They’re labeled “V FUEL D8x13 BMW 15 D8 >CR/CMD/NBR<”. At 8mm, a bit larger than the appropriate size, and being BMW, likely a decent quality. Looks like the hose linked below is almost identical to those I removed, but marking only slightly different.
https://www.amazon.com/BMW-Genuine-Fuel-Hose-13/dp/B00DD9JH4K

Old hoses:

Still, don’t know how long they were in there, but at least 9 years from when I bought the van in 2011. The larger diameter hose from the tank to the pump did appear to be original. Labeled “VRT VWTL52255 E 11x3,5 K DK 12 88”. I’d guess this “12 88” portion might be December 1988, since my van is a 1989 model, but that’s really speculation.

I’ve yet to replace the low-pressure return line from the fuel pressure regulator back to the tank, but I wanted to write down my experience here before I forgot all about it!

Old Firewall Fitting For Sale:
Get a vintage fitting for your fuel system here! Not leaking yet, but may at any time. You too can experience the excitement and angst of a Vanagon fire. Just $50!

Hope this is useful to someone.

Jim Davis
_________________
"A Vanagon? It's not a car or a van. It's a hobby!"

Check out:
www.VANAVATION.com
www.SyncroSafari.org and
www.Vanagons.org

[tjet]

Looks good Jim. I may need to get a set of Marco's injectors for my '85.

[thatbaldwinlife]

Great write up!
nate
_________________
1987 Westy
Insta: @Thatbaldwinlife
Vanagon Adventure and DIY videos:
That Baldwin Life YouTube Channel

[SyncroHead]

Thanks Tracey and Nate!

Jim
_________________
"A Vanagon? It's not a car or a van. It's a hobby!"

Check out:
www.VANAVATION.com
www.SyncroSafari.org and
www.Vanagons.org

[slapin]

This is a great write-up. Thank you for the detail.

[ALIKA T3]

Nice write up and investigation!

I just worked on a van recently that had 1993 and 1992 fuel lines in it. It had blue spring clamps, I`m wondering if some vans got recalled for fuel lines. I could have sworn I read it somewhere but never found the info again.
The later vans also had a brass insert at the end of the plastic lines to avoid collapsing.

I would just raise one concern about your whole set up, it is the fitting you inserted in the plastic line and a clamp. I`m no engineer but that seems like a high stress point, both by the Oetiker clamp on a semi rigid tubing and also internally by where the insert stops. I wouldn`t trust this stressed tubing to last forever. The fuel line over it method is fine with the Oetiker clamp style, I put 2 for good measure on these, you can pull all day on it...
Funny side story, I found an injector once with no clamp at the manifold from factory, the system never got touched judging by all the factory clamps, original fuel lines and so on. Amazing.
_________________
Silicone Steering Boots and 930 Cv boots for sale in the classifieds.
Syncro transmission upgrade parts in the Classifieds.
Subaru EJ22+UN1 5 speed transmission
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=416343
Syncro http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4...num+gadget

[Bobj86]

Question, is the gray plastic abrasion sheathing standard? And is the aftermarket braided sheathing better and why (other than looking much cooler)?

Having recently acquired my first Vanagon (1986) and reading all the scary fire stories, I have taken a look at the fuel lines. Mine have the gray plastic abrasion sheathing, and the dangerous plastic firewall fitting has been remedied.

I’m going back through the vehicle history (pile of receipts) to find evidence of the fuel lines having been replaced. My other question is how long should these last?

Thanks for the great documentation!

[khughes]

[SyncroHead]

[Bobj86]

Thanks, looks like mine were replaced in 2012. I may start with the “gasoline smell after fill-up” issue first, and work my way back.

[vino de vano]

Bob that gas smell is most likely the grommets in the top of your gas tank have failed. Dropping the tank is not as bad as you'd think. Congrats on your new ride.
_________________
what a long strange trip it's been

[Abscate]

[Hatterasker]

[space]

Old Firewall Fitting For Sale:
Get a vintage fitting for your fuel system here! Not leaking yet, but may at any time. You too can experience the excitement and angst of a Vanagon fire. Just $50!

Still available?


_________________
82 westy
w:
2.5 JDM Subie
Rear discs

[Abscate]

Fire sale, marked Down for a hot deal!

I just want to reiterate the use of the right clamps here, just like new cars m today. Okay, and my family gets 0.25 cents per crimp.
_________________
.ssS!

[RichieS]

[RichieS]

[nemobuscaptain]

J30R14t2 is the newer standard and has far less permeability still.

Gates Barricade and similar.

The last R9 I took off had hardened significantly though it was just a few years old. I didn't look close enough to see any microcracks, just a cut to the inside gave it a quick glance and kept going.
_________________
Ohio Valley Tribe, Full Moon Bus Club https://www.facebook.com/groups/294422277314227/

https://www.facebook.com/groups/FullMoonBusClub

RIP Bob Hoover https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=427791
Hoover Sermons: https://www.vwsage.com/images/vwsage/Bob%20Hoovers%20Sermons.pdf

[hardway]

Nice detailed posting indeed! I have dealt with the polyamide plastic fuel tubing for decades. I still have a bunch of different sizes of it. Cohline makes a tool for pressing it onto the fittings but I have never used it. I always took a cup of very hot water and put the end of the tube into it. After heating it push the tube onto the fitting. It pre-dates PEX tubing but acts the same way. It's memory makes it contract onto the fitting. Look at any K-jet car. You will not see any of those joints clamped. Belmetric has a nice selection of Cohline tubing and fittings.

I used to be a purist and only used Conti 7 mil hose. I now use Gates Barricade 5/16. It is readily available and works fine. I usually use ABA screw clamps since that is what that the manufacturers used on FI hoses. But I recently did my 91 Carat and reused the blue spring clamps on the Barricade. I really need to get some of that cool looking abrasion sleeve.

Thanks.

[DanHoug]