CV joint questions

[Shinnlinger]

So I have multiple old axles and cv joints laying around and a few more parts busses if need be, but my understanding is cleaning and repacking cv joints is the preferred way to go vs "new" axels and joints. Is this correct?

I started the process with kerosene but quickly moved to carb cleaner and ultimately just used gasoline to clean these up, and they still have some grease. Is there a better way?

A couple of the joints look pretty good but more likely than not, either the outer race has a small crater or the inner one does. First, does it appear these parts are serviceable? Second, I have heard mixed messages, but can I just take my best looking outer races and stick them with my best looking inner races or do I have to keep them together as a matched set? I can not imagine the metal really cares, particularly with a coat of grease between them.

These are from two different sets, but their mates look pretty good. Would I be better tossing these but make one good one from the other parts or reuse as is? Again, I have multiple sets of used ones to select from.

Thanks.

[Jetfxr69]

thats some pretty ugly stuff. if youve gotta several sets, I would imagine you can find better than that to use. ive got some extras laying around that would need dissasembling to check, but are available.

if you were just gonna drive around local you could clean up with some sandpaper and grease up real good, but I wouldnt want to take it on a trip or down the higheay with those in it.

just did mine with the lobro kits. easy and affordable. didnt have anything looking like that.
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‘76 tintop Crusher
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[skills@eurocarsplus]

dave, those are junk

is you email the same? I emailed you on 8/19 and haven't heard back
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[SamboSamba22]

Good, original is always best in my thoughts. The one you have shown is eaten up, and should be replaced.

Even Don is being friendly. Perhaps softened up over the course of this shit year?!


Sam
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[skills@eurocarsplus]

[SGKent]

as to those CV joints. They are in early stages of failure - the peeling steel shows that they are cheaper CV joints. However if you can't afford new ones you can dress those with a dremel stone, use only the best ball bearings from the sets you have and get another year out of them. But if you can afford new ones get Lobro ones and be done with it.
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[Shinnlinger]

Thank you for confirming my suspicion that some of my existing parts are no good, but I still have two questions that haven't been answered.

I started the process with kerosene but quickly moved to carb cleaner and ultimately just used gasoline to clean these up, and they still have some grease. Is there a better way to clean these up?

Can I just take my best looking outer races and stick them with my best looking inner races? I can not imagine the metal really cares, particularly with a coat of grease between them.

These crappy ones are from two different sets, but their mates look pretty good and could make a set. Again, I have multiple sets of used ones to select from. My logic is I kinda have nothing to loose as they will make noise long before they fail, or am I wrong about that? and missed matched set will result in imminent destruction?


Am I better off buying lobos sets or some other vendor?

Thanks.

[timvw7476]

Lobros are the ones you want.
Also, if there's any wrecking yard or pik n' pull around,
scan the horizon for Vanagon chassis, they're classics now but
I poached many a set some time ago for peanuts .
If you can't do that then you open the wallet.
They are nice. And expensive . And proper.

[SGKent]

I would not use explosive cleaners like gasoline unless you have a death wish. Personally I use Stoddard Solvent in an outdoor parts washer made for it. I have a parts brush and it gets all the grease gone. Usually wipe it with paper towels first so not to destroy the solvent too quickly. Stoddard Solvent is also known as mineral spirits.

I would not have a problem mixing hub, cages, and centers from the same manufacturer made about the same time. I would have an issue mixing them from different manufacturers or made in way different runs because the tolerances may be different. Generally any Lobro part will fit any Lobro CV. You do need to look closely at lines and marks on them to tell if they are the same. If you swap parts, you will need to feel how the CV's work as a unit before deciding it is ok to swap.
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[NOVA Bus]

After many years not working on my bus, which has been in garage storage, started tinkering again....somewhat related to the original post on this CV joint feed.

I see Ratwell returned to the site recently as well, cool!

Anyhow, I’m freshening up the CVs, last item on total restoration list. Started the removal on the CVs last weekend, took longer to gain access to the SHC screws covered with fifty years grease/dirt/sludge, everything’s clean now; the actual removal of the axle took 45min everything off easy, and have a new set Lobro/GNK CVs from BDP ready to reinstall.

My CV were original (72k) on odometer, the boots were starting to split, this was a repair I needed to undertake, but neglected due to time/money/divorce/kids/new wife, in no certain order😩.

My question, the tranny side CV spline hub seems frozen on the axle; Bentley Section 6.3.3 shows using a press to remove/reinstall the splined hub/bearing assembly.

Does this same press fit procedure apply to the wheel side of the axle as well? Seems the fit on the new CV splines/axle are tight, should one side (wheel hub) have float-movement.

For reference: CV joint kit purchased from the BDP (9/18/20); OE German Lobro/GNK kit $54 per kit.

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1977 Transporter / Weekender
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[busdaddy]

The Bentley shows a press due to the need to compress the spring washer to get the clip on or off. In most cases they should just slide off with little interference, if the edges of the circlip groove are raised from wear they can bind in the CV, try pushing it back on and look for shiny spots.

Neither end should float on the axle splines, the CV's have enough in/out range already.
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[ratwell]

The ball bearings really should go back into the same locations they were installed in at the factory (unless those horrible wear marks are present requiring the joint to be replaced). Number the the race and housing 1 thru 6 and clean the ball bearings in their own numbered zip lock bags.

For cleaners, I’ve had good luck with “carb dip in a paint can” to clean up new joints with the included basket:

https://gunk.com/product/gunk-parts-cleaner-with-drip-basket-cc3k/

Depending on local regs you’ll find Gunk or Berryman B12 at the flaps. I ordered Gunk online last time I had to replace a knocking CV joint.
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[SGKent]

also - if you have a vise you can open it just wide than the axle and drop the axle on it so the hub comes off. No pounding is required. Watch your toes and maybe wad an old towel under the vise to catch it. A couple light drops should do it. If it is more buggered up than that it may be an aftermarket axle that is softer steel. You really want a factory axle.
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[NOVA Bus]

Thanks for fast response, the wheel side CV slid off the axle spline easy, the tranny side is frozen to the spline (less I'm missing something)...couldn't budge using the vise/socket/hammer method on top end of the axle.

The frozen bearing hub has some rough wear "pitting/galling marks", so needs to be replaced.

Does anyone know a source for new axles? I would have preferred to buy the entire new assembly, but nobody had them (AutoHauz AZ or BDP)....trying to fix it right for the first attempt...
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1977 Transporter / Weekender
- GE engine, L-Jetronic w/ hyd. lifters
- Brown Beige plaid P27 Interior (ED)
http:/[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-29638.png]Click to view image
Camper Interior donor:
[/URL]/www.vw-mplate.com/mcode.php?lang=EN&id=721 (M-Code for interior).

[mikedjames]

It may help to try hammering the shaft the other way first, using something in the dimple at the other end of the shaft .

Then file down the burred end where it will not go through, then drive it through again using something in the dimple at the CV end of the shaft.

This happens because the axle is soft enough to deform when you hammer on the end of it. Then it will not come through
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Ancient vehicles and vessels

1974 VW T2 : Devon Eurovette camper with 1641 DP T1 engine, Progressive carb, full flow oil cooler, EDIS crank timed ignition.
Engine 1: 40k miles (rocker shaft clip fell off), Engine 2: 30k miles (rebuild, dropped valve). Engine 3: a JK Preservation Parts "new" engine, aluminium case: 26k miles: new top end.
Gearbox rebuild 2021 by Bears.

1979 Westerly GK24 24 foot racer/cruiser yacht Forethought of Gosport.
1973 wooden Pacer sailing dinghy

[Randy in Maine]

I use a 2 jaw craftsman gear puller. I wish I had a 3 jaw but I don't. Mine looks sort of like this...

[Abscate]

If you are headed to Tierra del Fuego, get new ones

If it’s a fun driver rolling under 7500 miles a year locally:

Dress with a stone, pack well, run for 30,000 miles

Seriously.
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[Wildthings]

[NOVA Bus]

So I managed to get the bearing housings off my axles, found a machine shop they used a big press. I cleaned the axles up, painted, dremmeled the splines...the axles still do not easily engage the new Lobro CVs I pounded on😳. Thinking this as not a good idea, the new CVs are very tight...
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1977 Transporter / Weekender
- GE engine, L-Jetronic w/ hyd. lifters
- Brown Beige plaid P27 Interior (ED)
http:/[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-29638.png]Click to view image
Camper Interior donor:
[/URL]/www.vw-mplate.com/mcode.php?lang=EN&id=721 (M-Code for interior).

[Wildthings]