Rust under window frame

[ebj112]

I am starting to see some rust where the front window frames meet the body of the bus. I know this can be a real problem area.

I need to address the issue. Should I sand or grind it? What is the best tool to use on this area?

I tried to find a thread that addresses this, but couldn’t. I am trying to work on the bus while it is still complete and drivable. So hopefully I won’t have to put the bus in a rotisserie to fix this. 😁

[ryans65]

That is a can of worms, maybe try something to take the rust stains out then ospho it unless you plan on pulling the glass and having the nose repainted.

[Eric&Barb]

That has to be cleaned out of the rust and sealed with new paint. Just leaving it will allow the rust to work its magic between those two panels and start to push them apart.

Wire wheel, sandpaper, thin cutting disc rubbed by hand into that seam to erase out the rust, and some type of acid like Naval Jelly to get ever bit out. Then use a zinc primer and paint.
_________________
In Stereo, Where Available!

[ebj112]

Thanks for the info, that is exactly what I was looking for. Should I remove the windows or cover them, or will it be okay to grind with the glass still in?

[Eric&Barb]

[RambosRide]

Once rust starts in the pinchweld there's nothing that will stop it except cutting out and replacing the metal.

You can only try to encapsulate and repaint...but, rest assured - it will come back.

[ebj112]

The sanding is working. First I started sanding by hand. Then I switched to a Dremel with a flap wheel. Finally I used a small grinder wheel by hand (great suggestion).

Here is what it looks like now.

[RambosRide]

It's really all you can do without splitting the pinchweld/overlap between the panels and replacing sheet metal.

Looks great!

[Eric&Barb]

Good! Keep opening up the paint till you have traced down the last of the rust that is creeping under the paint. The Naval Jelly will get out every last bit of rust out of each rust pit. Get a good quality zinc primer to seal to keep away the rust for as long as possible, anything with less than 85% zinc content is a waste of $$ and time. AirGas welding supply shops can order up (if not on the shelf) the one we use, it is a matte grey zinc primer has 97% zinc content. The zinc brite stuff they have, did not have a zinc content listed on the can....

https://www.airgas.com/product/Welding-Products/We...AD64000130

Best to store on the side of the spray can (best for any spray paint can really) to spread the pigment inside on the side of the can. This makes for faster shaking the paint loose inside, and less pigment/mud stuck in the bottom crevice the marble can not reach into. Even then do start shaking up the primer hours or even the day before, otherwise it can come out like X-mas flocking.

Zinc primer only fully functions when directly applied to bare steel or iron. It acts as an anode, which slows rust down to a slow crawl it the paint is scratched or chipped thru right down to the metal. Even metal just near the zinc primer will have the affect. Which is why steel ships have blocks of zinc bolted to the outer hull to keep corrosion down to manageable amounts, even in salty marine conditions.

Use a filler primer over that, sand smooth, but not too smooth so the paint that you spray over it does not peel off.
_________________
In Stereo, Where Available!