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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2020 1:17 pm    Post subject: Re: Type 3 Squareback Reply with quote

JSMskater wrote:
1971 viv wrote:
I’m in the Boise area in Idaho. Maybe rebuilt might be a strong word. At least I wanted to drop it and check the cylinder heads. Probably not a full rebuild but as it’s all from the 70’s, I just want to see where it’s at.


You can get a fairly good idea of that with a compression and leak down test. It will at least tell you how healthy the rings and valves/seats are. If you pull the valve covers off and perform a valve adjustment, you would certainly catch anything in the valve train/pushrod assembly that could be off/worn. Pulling and torquing the heads isn't a bad idea per se, it just introduces some new risks (like pulling a head stud) that may then necessitate a complete tear down, but if you're going that direction any way or want to for the hell of it I completely get it, BTDT.


Agreed. I wouldn't open it up unless I had to. Some of those old German parts will be better than anything you can get today.
I've had an engine pull a couple of head studs, but then it had been over heated at least once before I got it. When I put a new engine in my 65 Notch, I went with an all aluminum case, and 8mm head studs. Going to that case brings it's own issues (extra weight, and heat, but better metal).
I've had 1 case that was rebuilt before, that when I rebuilt it, I pulled 4 head studs just trying to tighten up a head. Needless to say, it got completely torn down and had case savers installed, just so I could use it. The engine in my old 71 Notch I rebuilt completely. The case went to RIMCO (case savers, decked, and align bored), it got a new counter weighted crank, along with new bearings, recon rods, good used cam and a new 26mm oil pump. That engine ran very smooth. I had about 700 in parts in it, plus 3 days of assembly time. I've also rebuilt a few engines before, so I knew what needed to be done, and had some tools for rebuilding.
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64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
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1971 viv
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2020 3:57 pm    Post subject: Re: Type 3 Squareback Reply with quote

That is super helpful. Thanks to both of you. I will first do a compression and leakdown test like you said.
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1971 viv
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 2020 5:20 pm    Post subject: Re: Type 3 Squareback Reply with quote

If the engine is absolutely pouring oil where it is mated to the transmission, that warrants a rebuild, right? is there a seal that I could replace? The compression test was fine but not great. I think that the piston rings are wearing out.
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 01, 2020 8:52 am    Post subject: Re: Type 3 Squareback Reply with quote

1971 viv wrote:
If the engine is absolutely pouring oil where it is mated to the transmission, that warrants a rebuild, right? is there a seal that I could replace? The compression test was fine but not great. I think that the piston rings are wearing out.


Yes, there is a seal back there between the case and the flywheel/flexplate.

That however doesn't warrant a rebuild. It does require that the engine be removed, so the seal can be replaced though.
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote:
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Tram wrote:
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed".
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JSMskater
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 02, 2020 12:03 am    Post subject: Re: Type 3 Squareback Reply with quote

Bobnotch wrote:
1971 viv wrote:
If the engine is absolutely pouring oil where it is mated to the transmission, that warrants a rebuild, right? is there a seal that I could replace? The compression test was fine but not great. I think that the piston rings are wearing out.


Yes, there is a seal back there between the case and the flywheel/flexplate.

That however doesn't warrant a rebuild. It does require that the engine be removed, so the seal can be replaced though.


leaking rear main seals are basically a requirement of any aircooled VW that has sat for a while Laughing

doesn't require a rebuild thankfully as Bob said, just a removal of the flywheel and clutch assy. Basically, like Bob said as well, if it were me I would perform a few of the tests we've mentioned to get a better idea of how much actual life is left in the engine. If the tests come back good, you can probably just buy a bunch of cheap seals and gaskets, get her oil tight again, and throw some fresh dino juice in her and go.
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1971 viv
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 21, 2020 2:13 pm    Post subject: Re: Type 3 Squareback Reply with quote

Any ideas for removing seized engine tin screws?
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Mr.Duncan
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 21, 2020 2:41 pm    Post subject: Re: Type 3 Squareback Reply with quote

1971 viv wrote:
Any ideas for removing seized engine tin screws?


Add some heat, then use this.

https://www.harborfreight.com/6-bit-impact-screwdr...crewdriver
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 21, 2020 5:05 pm    Post subject: Re: Type 3 Squareback Reply with quote

Mr.Duncan wrote:
1971 viv wrote:
Any ideas for removing seized engine tin screws?


Add some heat, then use this.

https://www.harborfreight.com/6-bit-impact-screwdr...crewdriver


Or vice grips on the screw heads. On some of them you just have to get mid-evil on them. Wink
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71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote:
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives."
Tram wrote:
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed".
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Ceckert64
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 21, 2020 7:51 pm    Post subject: Re: Type 3 Squareback Reply with quote

From my thread on getting mid-evil, my engine also looked like it spent a few months in the ocean and was very rusty Laughing
Ceckert64 wrote:
I figured out how to get out sheet metal screws that are stripped/seized Very Happy
First: weld together two heavier duty rods/ bolts, one being about the size of the screws.
Second: weld the t-handle to the screw
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Let it cool the start unscrewing it
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Then take it out
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Cut off the screw and clean up the end and repeat
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

It worked great, I took out almost all of them that way and only one broke, here is the carnage
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
]

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ibldrc
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2020 7:56 am    Post subject: Re: Type 3 Squareback Reply with quote

1971 viv wrote:
Any ideas for removing seized engine tin screws?


If you have an air chisel/rivet gun, use this:
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-screw-buster.htm...l8QAvD_BwE

They're used frequently in aviation, when it's critical to remove a fastener without damaging anything. They work amazingly well. Just a little patience and penetrant.
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1971 viv
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 23, 2020 12:01 pm    Post subject: Re: Type 3 Squareback Reply with quote

Thanks for all the tips. i might just have to grind them down if these ideas dont work
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1971 viv
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2021 5:38 pm    Post subject: Re: Type 3 Squareback Reply with quote

Thanks for the help. I got them off. I need to remove the flywheel nut. I’ve seen that you can use an impact wrench to get it off, but do you need a torque multiplier to get it torqued on? I don’t want to buy it if I don’t have to. They seem to be pretty pricey. And I’m assuming that there is no way to get at the seal without taking it off.
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Ceckert64
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2021 6:13 pm    Post subject: Re: Type 3 Squareback Reply with quote

You don’t need a torque multiplier, if you have a torque wrench that goes up to 100ft/lb of torque you are fine. Just need to hold it so it doesn’t spin, put it in gear, flywheel lock etc
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W1K1
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2021 7:11 pm    Post subject: Re: Type 3 Squareback Reply with quote

Quote:
You don’t need a torque multiplier, if you have a torque wrench that goes up to 100ft/lb of torque you are fine. Just need to hold it so it doesn’t spin, put it in gear, flywheel lock etc


stock flywheel nut is 235ft/lbs torque setting

Quote:
Thanks for the help. I got them off. I need to remove the flywheel nut. I’ve seen that you can use an impact wrench to get it off, but do you need a torque multiplier to get it torqued on? I don’t want to buy it if I don’t have to. They seem to be pretty pricey. And I’m assuming that there is no way to get at the seal without taking it off.


impact wrench is okay if you are tearing the engine apart to rebuild, I would never use it on a good running engine

I hummed and hawed over buying a torque tool for many years, I used a long pipe to torque nuts before, but after I bought the tool, it was much easier and it's been used for many different VW's
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Ceckert64
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2021 8:15 pm    Post subject: Re: Type 3 Squareback Reply with quote

W1K1 wrote:
Quote:
You don’t need a torque multiplier, if you have a torque wrench that goes up to 100ft/lb of torque you are fine. Just need to hold it so it doesn’t spin, put it in gear, flywheel lock etc


stock flywheel nut is 235ft/lbs torque setting

Oh, I was thinking of the fan wheel, oops Embarassed
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2021 11:19 am    Post subject: Re: Type 3 Squareback Reply with quote

1971 viv wrote:
Thanks for the help. I got them off. I need to remove the flywheel nut. I’ve seen that you can use an impact wrench to get it off, but do you need a torque multiplier to get it torqued on? I don’t want to buy it if I don’t have to. They seem to be pretty pricey. And I’m assuming that there is no way to get at the seal without taking it off.


I bought one years ago, and I'll never know how I got away without it before. It might seem like a lot of money (especially with the extra bits version), but it really pays for itself once you use it a couple of times (for axle nuts, flywheel gland nut, and other high torqued nuts). I also never travel without it, that's how much I like it.
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote:
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives."
Tram wrote:
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed".
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2021 11:59 am    Post subject: Re: Type 3 Squareback Reply with quote

I had to return a $50 1/2" impact wrench from Home Depot and trade up to the $100 Earthquake 1/2" impact wrench.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2021 3:58 pm    Post subject: Re: Type 3 Squareback Reply with quote

Yeah I suppose I probably should buy one. I do need to do wheel bearings and brakes so I should invest in one.
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2021 1:18 pm    Post subject: Re: Type 3 Squareback Reply with quote

1971 viv wrote:
Yeah I suppose I probably should buy one. I do need to do wheel bearings and brakes so I should invest in one.


Yup, sometimes the axle nuts can be harder to remove than the gland nut.
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote:
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives."
Tram wrote:
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed".
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2021 2:03 pm    Post subject: Re: Type 3 Squareback Reply with quote

I meant to say Harbor Freight yesterday rather than Home Depot! Rolling Eyes
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two 57 oval ragtops sold
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