2.1 MV rebuild

[MarkWard]

The loctite is likely suitable to gaps of to .006”. The tube should say. If your case has a gap bigger than that you have a problem. Nothing special. Do one side of the case and assemble after cleaning. My experience is most first timers tend to use too much sealer on every thing. You need only a film not a bead to seal machined surfaces. The part the “kicks” is just the face where the sealer is no longer exposed to air.

You can experiment with some scrap aluminum if you’d like to get familiar with it.
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[90weekender]

Thanks MArk

So how do i remove the 518 if I screw this up?

R

[Abscate]

Don’t sweat it, 518 is easy to do, less is more.

Acetone or brake cleaner will clean up nicely
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.ssS!

[90weekender]

Hi Guys,

As you may recall, my case leaked at the bottom center seam when i used Gascacinch:

The leak:

Opened up the case and found oil mixed into the cinch:

Well after consulting you guys I thought I'd use loctite 518 but after a final call with my engine builder machinist of 50 years he told me what sounded like a secret...

...you need to put 1 coat of Gascacinch on the bottom case half and 2 coats on the top half. Let it dry between coats.

As a noob, I need the forgiveness that this stuff offers...it never hardens or dries so you can take it apart and clean it up easily...which I had to do.

So it's re-mated as above and not leaking...yet.

[90weekender]

As noted above, when installing a high volume oil pump from Mansispeed the studs and the OEM self sealing nuts securing the oil pump cover ($2.50 each!) will interfere with the metal water pipe that must traverse this side of the engine.

So, I used bolts and copper washers which are much lower profile but the water pipe still requires modification. (I'll show that image later)

[90weekender]

Installing the pistons was straight forward so I'll just highlight what i did differently than I've seen here, but was highly recommended by my local engine builder.

The stress of putting the heads on in one day is really high because I needed to put the pistons and liners into the block, install lifters, pushrod tubes, water jacket seals, fire rings and head nuts. Many of which require very careful attention to sealant application and timing. Which is basically impossible for noobs like me who only have a few hours a day and usually do it wrong the first few times.

So...I applied a bead of silver gray silicone gasket maker on top of the black o-ring that seals the liners to the case. Here are the results:

Once seated, I then put the head on without the water jacket seal, but with the fire rings. I let is set overnight so the liners could be seated and cured in solidly.

This broke down my work load into 2 days per side. And today...tada! it's looking like an engine again.

What a pig! Look at that face:

[90weekender]

Bolting the Mansispeed rockers up to the heads is nice and easy with this kit, but the remaining steps are not well understood by this Noob. I'm using Muirs book and the Bentley side by side.

2 issues:

1.) The Muir book tells you to adjust the valves before fitting the flywheel. But when adjusting the valves, I noticed the crank position is not very stable. So it feels like there is easily 3/8 inch of slop in the crank position when finding TDC for each piston.

I can't mount my engine to my stand with the flywheel still on, so I like this method, but is seems sloppy. Is there a more precise way? Am I doing something wrong? Or should I simply readjust the valves once it's all bolted together?

2.) And despite having bled my lifters before installing, many of the adjuster screws are screwing in very deep to the point that I have too few threads for the lock nut to secure them. I suspect some of the lifters are leaking because my engine sat for weeks between installing lifters and now the ratio rockers.

Should I simply set the adjusters from when they start pushing the lifter...vs. when they start moving the valve?...which seems way too deep on many of them.

Note the varying depth of the adjuster screws:

[felixbobcat]

Can’t tell from the picture but you did install the lash caps, right?

[90weekender]

Yes. Lash caps installed.

[90weekender]

Som pictures to document progress:

Distributor installed and oil cooler installed:

I'm using silicone grease for the oil cooler seal:

[markswagen]

if you bought a new bher {chinese} oil cooler, cross your fingers, this was a 2 year old chinese bher cooler

the whole cooling system was mud pressure testing the cooler proved the leak
this cost me a new radiator, stainless pipes, heater matrix, and every single piece of rubber hose in the syncro
i'll NEVER use another
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markswagen {mobile mechanic} san diego area all early VW's cared for.

619 201 0310

[90weekender]

Markswagen

I'll check he brand. Thanks for the heads up.

But which brand is best?

R

PS - Nice OEM hose clamps.

[4Gears4Tires]

No brand is best. Remove that thing.

Add an oil plate sandwich and thermostatic cooler if you want to add oil cooling. It will be completely separate from the coolant.
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'87 Syncro
Ferric Oxyhydroxide Superleggera Edition

[90weekender]

4Gears4Tires,

Can you recommend a sandwich oil cooler product?

OR

How to pressure test the cooler?

Here's a Myle brand on Busdepot site:
https://www.busdepot.com/068117021bmy

Tencent sells a kit but it too uses the existing oil/water cooler:
https://intrepidoverland.com/shop/deluxe-oil-cooler-kit/

R

[90weekender]

End Float question:

So before installing the front oil seal, I got .0035" end float

With oil seal installed and all torqued up to 81 ftlbs I cannot detect any end float.

Engine rotates smoothly but requires more torque, but with no new sounds.

What's up with that?

Here's the oil seal installed:

[felixbobcat]

The seal doesn’t look properly seated. How did you set it?

[markswagen]

the one i had fail, was a Bher unit, but made in china, the only one i could find on the day.
on my vans, i'm bypassing the stock cooler, i have a sandwich plate some 10AN fittings and lines, and a 30 row cooler, with a fan on it.
it's almost on one, and the others will get getting the same parts, once $ allows, i'm in for about $300, the pictures are of burni, my work syncro
and i've been having a lot more trouble since

[DanHoug]

[dhaavers]

[4Gears4Tires]