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Evan’s Garage Built Rod: The Birth of a 2180cc Street Machine
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evanfrucht
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2020 7:08 pm    Post subject: Evan’s Garage Built Rod: The Birth of a 2180cc Street Machine Reply with quote

I decided to rebuild my first air cooled engine. Not a stocker either! Rather a stroked out asphalt animal. Although I am familiar with working on my VW I have never orchestrated a project of this magnitude.

Thankfully though, I am not completely lost. By spending much of my free time tinkering in the garage I have gained a fair amount of mechanical experience. This includes building a few custom minibikes, designing a pretty elaborate motorized bicycle, and more recently restoring a 1969 Kawasaki Bushmaster. I rebuilt that engine and it really turned out well. It’s a pretty neat oil injected 2 stroke with a 5 speed gearbox inside the crankcase! Then I found a 1964 Plymouth Fury station wagon, got it running and working properly, completely rebuilt the brake system, and now it’s back on the road. Overall I do have the motivation and some of the “know how” required but nonetheless this will be a major learning experience for me and I will need some help!

Being the creative type that I am, I pursued an education in fine arts and design with an emphasis on sculpture. I have a background with experience in fabrication and automotive body work. I have always had a passion for cars of the 1960’s. The style and technology of that period simply draws me in. These interests and aesthetic tendencies definitely influence my approach.

In this build I will follow a period correct style, sound, and process in the spirit of old school garage hot rodding. I’m going to be doing this on a budget of sorts, in the VW spirit. I want it to look very original or stock and clean to give it a little bit of a sleeper vibe. I am not going to be using any fancy aftermarket anodized pulleys or the like. I am inspired by the look of the Porsche 356 and 912 engines. Even though some may say my ‘67 is a little late for this, I’m going for somewhat of an “outlaw” style, (after all I may put this in that low light ghia I’m going to get one day.)

Please call me out on anything I may be missing, doing wrong, or butchering. Feel free to post your ideas or advice. I plan to take lots of pictures and may end up asking a few odd questions. But that’s part of the fun right?

Here is a little history:

I have been driving around my first car, a weathered but well cared for blue 1967 Bug,until a few months ago. It probably has over 300 thousand miles on it but remains a survivor of sorts. I bought it with it’s original matching numbers engine which has taken me to school, work, and “out” for 6 or so years at this point. The slow 1500SP sounded meaner than any other car on the road and put a smile on my face almost every day. I was happy to be cruising around in style even if it meant being that guy in the right lane. Driving such an underpowered car, as cool as it was, really did make me yearn for more “get up and go” which led to pipe dreams of building my own air cooled hot rod engine.

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There's the bug behind its original engine

A recent job had me commuting one hour each way. On top of that I was working long hours and didn’t have time to do much preventative maintenance. Whatever the reason, the car started running kind of shitty for a week or so and when I eventually went to adjust the valves I noticed one of my head studs had stripped out the case. To fix it properly involved pulling the engine, machining for case savers, and basically rebuilding it.

This scenario left me with two choices,

Spend time and money and rebuild the original single relief H case into something close to stock and keep the car “matching numbers.”

Or

Put the OG engine in a storage bin.
Then spend more time and money to buy another used german dual relief engine and rebuild that into a hot rod.

…for better or for worse I decided on the second choice.

Sure I could have built my original H case into a stroker, but that had a couple downsides in my opinion...

The H case is a single oil relief case. Although I know people use them successfully I do believe it is not ideal, and that dual relief is a better system especially for a larger motor.

I do like the idea of retaining the matching numbers engine for originality (even if it’s not in the car) and didn’t want to mess it up by boring it bigger or clearancing it. There is only one engine that came with my car from the factory so using it for anything other than a close to stock build would have just made me nervous the whole time… it’s almost a type of irrational sentimentality.

So I found a seized up 1970 AE engine local to me for about $250 in the classifieds here. One plus side was that it came with a lot of good german parts like tins, pulley, flywheel core, etc. that I could give a new life too.

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It was stuck pretty good! Turns out it had spun a rod bearing and had been sitting out in the weather.

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After spending a couple months reading through books, threads here, and steadily gathering parts I have acquired the following combination that I think will give me the most power possible while still maintaining snappy usable torque for frequent street use and a long reliable engine life.


    - Original German AS41 dual relief case (1970, AE--- full flowed, .25 over, clearanced, 92 bore)
    - Empi 82mm 4340 chromoly crankshaft
    - AA 92mm thick wall cylinders & b pistons (94 at head, 92 at case)
    - CB 5.4” H-beam race rods
    - AA500 heads w/ SS valves, 40 x 35.5, hand ported
    - Beehive valve springs (Dan Ruddock)
    - 1.5 Ratio rockers (supplied by Dan Ruddock w/ shims)
    - W̶e̶b̶ ̶C̶a̶m̶ ̶8̶6̶A̶+̶3̶ changed to Web Cam #252 (on EP12 blank)
    - CB 28mm ultralight lifters
    - Original German 36HP gears for cam/crank (w/ CB racer spacer)
    - 9.4 to 1 static CR (deck height of 0.038” w/ 0.06 base shims & 58.5cc chambers, 0.08" flycut)
    - Pertronix Flame Thrower III distributor (SVDA) ...I'm hoping I won't have problems with this, but if I do I plan to use a Bosch 010 or CB BlackBox + German unit.
    - Dual Dellorto 45 DRLA’s (unsure of jetting or venturi size yet)
    - Original German flywheel lightened to 11.9 lbs, 8 doweled, and resurfaced.
    - KEP stage 1 pressure plate
    - Daiken clutch, metal woven (pn# B503A)
    - Gene Berg HD gland nut
    - CB Maxi 26mm full flow oil pump kit
    - AA Sidewinder 1 ⅝ header with a custom fabricated pea shooter style exhaust and muffler
    - Porsche inspired breather box custom fabricated by me
    - Original Bosch generator (home rebuilt, process will be documented)
    - 7/16” “Pushrods Done Right” (from samba member Dan Ruddock)
    - CB stainless steel racing PR tubes
    - Original German fan, welded, then balanced
    - mostly German tin + a reworked aftermarket 36hp style dog house shroud w/ all original thermostat assembly installed (I wised up) and custom venturi ring



I have already done a lot of prep work and pre assembly but between planning everything, doing the work, and taking the pictures I haven’t had time to actually start this thread. So bear with me while I sort through photos and catch you guys up.

I am pretty determined to actually finish this thread and share some of my ideas and experiences in the hopes it might inspire others. That being said, please don’t follow my lead without keeping in mind this is the first VW engine I have built and I am not a specialist or expert by any means. This is for fun. I am trying to do it correctly and carefully but am not interested in winning any races. Just want a fun street car. If I happen to succeed that will be very satisfying.

Thanks for reading and stay tuned!
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Last edited by evanfrucht on Sat Dec 26, 2020 11:25 am; edited 6 times in total
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UK Luke 72
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2020 12:15 am    Post subject: Re: Evan’s Garage Built Rod: The Birth of a 2180cc Street Machine Reply with quote

Spec should make for a really nice build, look forward to see this progress.
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2020 5:01 am    Post subject: Re: Evan’s Garage Built Rod: The Birth of a 2180cc Street Machine Reply with quote

If you have not bought the heads yet, go for the 42 x 37,5 instead and then adjustr the exh port for the I/E ratio you want. With that cam/lift you need more time area or the engine will become lazy.
That, or at least an FK8 or preferably a 86b w. 1,4 rockers with the 40 x 35 valves.
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2020 7:53 am    Post subject: Re: Evan’s Garage Built Rod: The Birth of a 2180cc Street Machine Reply with quote

Ambitious project! Looking forward to progress updates here.

A few notes and suggestions for your upcoming "period-looking" engine. The AE engine has what appears to still be an early flywheel and the 180 mm pressure plate. The 200 mm PP were recessed flush into the FW. Yours is mounted on the FW face. I realize you won't use this FW for your 2180 build, but this is just FYI in case you want to sell it or use it for a sweep the floor (STF) engine.

The AE's generator is the 1-year only '67 12V due to it having the spade wire terminals. This would be a good one to rebuild.

The AE's fuel pump looks like a strange aftermarket one. You can substitute the one from your '67 engine which will look like it belongs.

Coil: Though not seen in any of your photos, the coil bracket style can be an immediate giveaway of original style vs late aftermarket. Original brackets had rounded ends and closed slots for the mounting bolts, like this one (photo caption happens to list this as a '67). You can barely see the Bosch logo in the center of the bracket which is another nice detail for originality-
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Late/new coils have the bracket ends squared off; the slots go out to the edge, and one slot goes downward to the edge so that the bracket can slide onto the fastening bolts that are partly screwed into the shroud. http://vwparts.aircooled.net/12V-Bosch-Blue-Coil-with-Mounting-Bracket-00-012-p/00-012us.htm

If you use a factory fan shroud with fresh air outlets, please use the black paper air hoses and factory style narrow clamps, not the silver aluminum hoses. If you do not need any heat due to the large-valve heads, then a 36 hp style shroud could work. When I bought my '77 Beetle in '92, the PO had built and installed a strong 2110 cc using aftermarket heads that had less cooling fins than stock heads. And J-pipes. I wanted to keep a stock fan shroud appearance so I fitted an original doghouse shroud with full thermostat and air flaps, put plugs into the fresh air outlets, and ran black hoses down through the rear breast plate which were not connected to anything. That engine also had 45 DRLA's. Engine developed low oil pressure which was due to a main bearing saddle cracking Shocked so I had to strip it and not reuse that case anymore.

Crank pulley: 5-hole "Santana" style with single-degree markings set in a black perimeter ring. Such as Scat's pulley on left.
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evanfrucht
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2020 10:42 am    Post subject: Re: Evan’s Garage Built Rod: The Birth of a 2180cc Street Machine Reply with quote

It took me a little while to get the old engine apart. I had to get a little creative

Not only was it not turning over because of the rod bearing, but one of the pistons seemed to have rusted stuck inside the bore.


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Also, when I went to drain the oil (which luckily was left in there)... a decent amount of water spilled out before oil. This caused some corrosion to form on the floor of the case sump, nothing too serious though. my Magnesium cam gear was not so lucky though. A quick soda blast revealed this

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after pulling apart and cleaning, I'm left with what seems to be a pretty decent usable case.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2020 11:15 am    Post subject: Re: Evan’s Garage Built Rod: The Birth of a 2180cc Street Machine Reply with quote

tip of the day for removing cylinder... take a rubber mallet and tap/hit the cylinder almost dead on while pulling on the cylinder with your spare hand. alternate between the top and bottom on the cylinder. works 99.8% of the time.
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2020 11:20 am    Post subject: Re: Evan’s Garage Built Rod: The Birth of a 2180cc Street Machine Reply with quote

Thanks for the comments so far,

UK Luke 72 wrote:
Spec should make for a really nice build, look forward to see this progress.

Good to hear and I appreciate it!

Alstrup wrote:
If you have not bought the heads yet, go for the 42 x 37,5 instead and then adjust the exh port for the I/E ratio you want. With that cam/lift you need more time area or the engine will become lazy.
That, or at least an FK8 or preferably a 86b w. 1,4 rockers with the 40 x 35 valves.


I went with an 86A+3 because it has the same amount of duration as the 86B but the lift is still low enough that it wont be hard on the valve train at all? I will get .502 lift at the valve with the 1.5 rockers. I also didn't want to wait until 3000 rpm for the power to come alive, but who knows... it's really hard to guess which cam I will like the best when my only experience is with the stock one for years. I also never had a tach in my bug so I have no idea where I was shifting before. Does this all make sense ?

As far as the heads yes I do have them already. I was sort of wondering the same thing, if I should go bigger to the 42 × 37... but eventually decided to go with the milder 40 x 35.5. Part of what led to this choice is the fact that I probably wont be shifting at 6k all the time and I wanted to keep the power where I will use it the most. This was just my gut feeling.

My first instinct would be that a 40x35 would pair better with an 86a and that 42x37 would pair better with an 86b. But you suggested the opposite way around which is interesting, I'd be curious as to why or if you could elaborate on that second sentence.

Half the people say with 2000+cc you don't need to worry about low end because you'll have plenty either way. Then the other half say no keep the valves and ports smaller and don't make the exhaust to big unless your racing or after the most max HP. This is just a quick summary, as I know opinions vary and there are a lot of factors.

Rome wrote:
Ambitious project! Looking forward to progress updates here.

A few notes and suggestions for your upcoming "period-looking" engine. The AE engine has what appears to still be an early flywheel and the 180 mm pressure plate....

The AE's generator is the 1-year only '67 12V due to it having the spade wire terminals. This would be a good one to rebuild....

The AE's fuel pump looks like a strange aftermarket one. You can substitute the one from your '67 engine which will look like it belongs....

Coil: Though not seen in any of your photos, the coil bracket style can be an immediate giveaway of original style vs late aftermarket...


Thank you! I did find out the hard way (when I brought it to the machine shop) that the flywheel was an earlier 180mm one. Then I was having a little trouble finding a good 200mm German core local to me, so I actually reached out to the guy I bought this engine from asking if he had one. He said yes and when I asked how much he said FREE... What a guy! This was a couple months after I actually bought the engine from him too. So I picked that new one up and its already machined and and ready to go.

Exactly my thoughts! I did rebuild that terminal style generator on there, it was mess! It should be a nice touch for the '67

And ya that fuel pump went in the trash... I have a few correct German fuel pump cores and I rebuilt one with the new WW kit. These new kits are way better than they were a few years back.

Somehow I happen to have the correct Bosch bracket you have pictured.

I'm going with a 36HP style dog house shroud with no ducts (Porsche style Wink)

I know the cooling debate is a hot topic but I have mostly original tin and I think this setup will work well. I plan to have oil temp and CHT gauges on this so I will be able to see how its working and address any issues. I don't plan to run a thermostat and I think I'll be fine. I know I should but it never gets below 50 Fahrenheit here.
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2020 12:47 pm    Post subject: Re: Evan’s Garage Built Rod: The Birth of a 2180cc Street Machine Reply with quote

Here is the case after machining. I ended up going with a shop called European Motorworks in Hawthorn, CA. They are close to me and have a good reputation as far as I know. I think they do a lot of type 4 work as well as type 1. I was happy with the work and the price was very reasonable, best I could find actually.



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I decided to soda blast it for an extra clean surface finish. Here is my cheap home setup. It actually worked great.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2020 4:26 pm    Post subject: Re: Evan’s Garage Built Rod: The Birth of a 2180cc Street Machine Reply with quote

Next I decided to make a couple small modifications to the case to help keep the main seal from leaking oil. The later cases had that drain back passage feature from the factory.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2020 4:34 pm    Post subject: Re: Evan’s Garage Built Rod: The Birth of a 2180cc Street Machine Reply with quote

Nice work Evan, you have a steady hand with a dremel.

Dan
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2020 7:50 pm    Post subject: Re: Evan’s Garage Built Rod: The Birth of a 2180cc Street Machine Reply with quote

Dan Ruddock wrote:
Nice work Evan, you have a steady hand with a dremel.

Dan


Thanks! You definitely have to be careful. One slip can do a lot of damage
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2020 10:26 pm    Post subject: Re: Evan’s Garage Built Rod: The Birth of a 2180cc Street Machine Reply with quote

I ended up deciding to do the Hoover mods. I didn't need to but it really has no downsides as far as I could tell. It was something I didn't even consider at first but eventually warmed up to.

I couldn't help myself Very Happy

I used a 3/16" drill bit for the long passage and around a 1/4 or 5/16 for the shorter galley that goes to the cam bearing saddle.

In addition I used a drill guide/portable drill press attachment (not sure exactly what it is called) to drill the hole accurately and at a 5 degree angle so that I would avoid getting so close to that most reccessed part of the case. It was actually easier for me to do it this way since I don't have a jig to hold the case flat or angled on my actual drill press.

The holes ended up lining up perfectly.

One tip is to drill the long hole first. THEN, leave the long drill bit pushed fully inside that hole while you drill the shorter hole. You will feel when you hit the bit and that helps prevent drilling too far... and possibly through your case!

It was a bit stressful but I measured many times before and was confident it would be fine as long as I drilled accurately.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2020 4:19 am    Post subject: Re: Evan’s Garage Built Rod: The Birth of a 2180cc Street Machine Reply with quote

5 degrees! Wow. That´s actually a lot. But if it works it works.- I usually tilt it 2-2,5 degrees.
You will not regret making it. For one thing it is a lot easier to maintain reasonably even temperatures in the cylinderheads.
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2020 5:01 am    Post subject: Re: Evan’s Garage Built Rod: The Birth of a 2180cc Street Machine Reply with quote

This thread... I like. Nice work sir! Very Happy
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2020 9:35 am    Post subject: Re: Evan’s Garage Built Rod: The Birth of a 2180cc Street Machine Reply with quote

Sweet! What length drill bit is that, and where did you get it? I have two extra cases that I've considered doing this to.
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2020 11:01 am    Post subject: Re: Evan’s Garage Built Rod: The Birth of a 2180cc Street Machine Reply with quote

Lowe’s and HomeDepot sell them...can’t remember the length but it’s pretty obvious when you look at them. I can measure mine when I get home
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2020 11:11 am    Post subject: Re: Evan’s Garage Built Rod: The Birth of a 2180cc Street Machine Reply with quote

txoval wrote:
Lowe’s and HomeDepot sell them...can’t remember the length but it’s pretty obvious when you look at them. I can measure mine when I get home


12in i think for the long galley. my lowes doesnt have em. made me sad when i drove 30 mins only to find out the lady on the phone was fibbing when i asked if they had it in store.
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2020 11:30 am    Post subject: Re: Evan’s Garage Built Rod: The Birth of a 2180cc Street Machine Reply with quote

Yes it's a 12" bit. When I called around most harware stores around me had them. A few might have only had 18" if I remeber correctly, but those could be used as is or cut down a few inches to make them less cumbersome.

I think the actual diameter of that galley is closer to 7/32" but a 3/16" worked for me. People use 1/4" bits too but I decided I wanted use the slightly undersize bit to take advantage of the loose fit by kind of angling it up slightly while I was drilling the hole, in an a further effort to stay as far away as possible from that recess/dimple in the case.

This was my way of "playing it safe"
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2020 12:48 pm    Post subject: Re: Evan’s Garage Built Rod: The Birth of a 2180cc Street Machine Reply with quote

Next I went ahead and pulled most of the galley plugs. I went to a local aviation surplus hardware store and picked up an assortment of allen head brass NPT pipe plugs: a few 1/8", 1/4" and 3/8." I found a set of used USA made NPT taps for about $20 on ebay. I have a tapered reaming tool but it turned out to be unnecassary and difficult to use for this application. I ended up enlarging the holes with the proper size drill bits for each tap.

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I choose brass because it's a non-ferrous metal with a similar thermal expansion rate to the case.

Aluminum might be the closest to magnesium but it is very easy to round out the allen head in aluminum. That is the main reason I didn't use aluminum.

Steel has no benifit over brass in my opinion... it could rust and is overkill, but is probabaly better than aluminum. They might be the easiest to find locally though.

Stainless steel could be a decent option. I was considering it.

In the end I think they would all work fine.

As you can you can see I used Loctite 518 to seal the plugs for a leak free fit. The loctite 518 makes them very hard to remove so when you install them do it swiftly! if you turn the allen key too slowly it the sealer ends up getting hard and gummy on you while it's going in and you then can't finish tightening it fully. I had to break out the torch on one, it happened to me.... heat is the only way to loosen it. Once I got it back out, I was then able to re install it QUICKLY and fully.
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Last edited by evanfrucht on Sun Nov 15, 2020 1:16 am; edited 3 times in total
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Chickensoup
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Joined: January 06, 2018
Posts: 5368
Location: Good Hope, GA
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2020 12:57 pm    Post subject: Re: Evan’s Garage Built Rod: The Birth of a 2180cc Street Machine Reply with quote

looks good. just make sure you didnt block any oil passages with the brass plugs. they seem a little deep but then again idk what length plugs you bought.
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