Evan’s Garage Built Rod: The Birth of a 2180cc Street Machine

[Dan Ruddock]

Time to clear cam for stroke. Dan

[evanfrucht]

[Dan Ruddock]

[evanfrucht]

[Buggeee]

[allamaabroad]

[quote="Buggeee"]

[evanfrucht]

That's correct, it is 1/4" NPT. Also for that one use a box end wrench or EVEN BETTER a socket that fits tight with exention on rachet, and be careful to keep it straight and centered, inline with the hole. I didn't have enough room in that location to use the standard "T" handle that is normally employed to keep the tap from wobbling around. You could also put a T handle on an extension, might be the best.
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1967 Bug ( the daily rod )
1964 Fury Wagon ( the pavement shredder )

[evanfrucht]

[Dan Ruddock]

You need min of .040

[Brian_e]

Just knock the corners of the rods off with a belt sander and don't mess with the cam. A quick 45 on all of them the same. They will stay close in balance and get you .040 in a couple passes.

Brian
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www.type-emotorsports.com

[evanfrucht]

[Bad bug]

Evan good morning which lifter will you use with your EP12 cam.

[evanfrucht]

[Grego in Sac]

Evan if you haven’t done the straightening of the heads cooling fins, I find that a thin cutoff disc in my drill worked great. I tried a Dremmel with a diamond bit but the shank of the bit couldn’t get all the way down to clean up the area needed most which is by the combustion chamber. Still need to clean them up and smooth them out with some sandpaper but you get the idea

[74 Thing]

A hacksaw always worked well for me for the cooling fin clean up.

[Grego in Sac]

[GARRICK.CLARK]

Has your case got an oil return at the flywheel seal like cam shafts do , some cases don't have them, I always put 1 in with a dremel . They stop oil pooling at the bottom of the inner flywheel seal.

[evanfrucht]

[evanfrucht]

Checked the endplay with two shims so that I could figure out the thickness I need for the third and last one. Using 3 is important because they are oiled and spin so having three allows the unit to act as a bearing. I checked before without any shims to figure out my starting point, in my case I needed the three thinnest ones in the pack from CB. ALSO, check the shims they are not accurately labeled.

Those 2 shims left me with 0.014" clearance or 0.356mm. I am shooting for 0.075mm(0.003") final end play so I need a 0.28 mm shim for that. Luckily my CB kit came with double 0.285mm shims (one was unlabeled and one was marked 32 but, oh well, works for me... measure those shims yourself with a good mic) so I am good to go!

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1967 Bug ( the daily rod )
1964 Fury Wagon ( the pavement shredder )

[evanfrucht]

Here my solution to oil starvation on a street car that wants as much ground clearance as it can get (the roads are rough in LA and I drive all over.) I call it the "skinny sump" ... it's a sort of sump plate extension. The pickup tube will be highly modified, extended about 1 inch, with a new type of screen system involved using two sizes of easily available sink strainers.

Marking it out

All cutting was done with a jig saw for this. I did final shaping and cleaned up the lines with a coarse burr on grinder.

Used some dabs of oil paint to mark out the mounting holes. You can also use a gasket or get creative. Don't drill the holes to big to begin with also... That way you have a little room to correct any small errors with a rat tail file or burr.

Not my best punch job, lol

After drilling the holes and some filing for a precise fit

Now onto the pickup tube... Doing all this would be pointless without improving, extending and modifying the oil pickup too. It's not easy to remove, so use some a good amount of heat on the case area around the tube to help expand things a bit then it will tap and shimmy out somewhat easily. I did not realize this at first and bent/dented mine all up and then had to straighten it back out.

Flaring a thin steel tube (22ish gauge) the old fashioned way

Then chop off the end about 1 inch and cut 4 slits into the non-flared end. Then bend inwards and slide onto a pipe that is identical in dimension to the original german pickup tube, I used 5/8" conduit ( pretty sure that's what it was) which worked perfectly

Then I tack welded a thin washer onto the end of the flare. This got blended into the inside with a carbide burr

Made a custom steel "sleeve" out of some thicker pipe and welded it on. My initial plan was to braze this onto the oil pickup, but for some reason it would not take the braze well at all, maybe I just couldn't get the whole pickup assembly hot enough with the mapp gas, to big maybe... so I ended up just welding it on. The slip/press fit made it easy to weld on straight and at the proper depth atleast. I ground away all of the old 5/8 conduit and smoothed things out with a carbide burr.

Brazing to seal it up. I don't want to be sucking air.

Testing fit and also some quick before/after

Here's the general idea

Now here I decided to make a sort of anti slosh baffle to incorporate into the pickup assembly. The idea is to help keep oil in that lowered center sump area during any occasional quick acceleration, cornering, and to combat windage to some extent and possibly even help funnel oil where it needs to be. It's a street car but I want to have a little fun every once in a while and "see how she pulls"

The notches and cut-outs are for camshaft lobe and sump clearance (note raised support ribs on floor of sump area, almost look like speed bumps)

Installing 6 grade 10.9, 35mm long M6x1 hex head bolts. I used both strong loctite and 518 anaerobic sealer to prevent any unlikely oil seepage through threads.

It's pretty slim, only sacrificing about 1cm of ground clearance when compared to stock.

Then I surfaced the original german sump. It was a little rough from being over tightened I knocked down the dimples around the holes flat as best I could with body hammers/picks and then did this... using the skinny sump (after it was sanded flat on glass) and a worn out grinding wheel to keep things centered. Bare with me, this is little creative and improper. However, it does work great. VIDEO included.

Link

Here is the whole lot and how it goes together. I found a flat ring shaped Neodymium magnet on ebay that fits the original drain plate perfectly. I decided to try out the WW silicone gaskets also. Make sure your washers are real copper (not magnetic) since steal doesn't crush/seal like copper when tightened and you end up with leaks. There are tricksters out there selling copper plated washers in kits. Wolfsburg's are good.

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1967 Bug ( the daily rod )
1964 Fury Wagon ( the pavement shredder )