Line Lock Components

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With jpaull cranking out all these helpful tutorials, I thought I would post up some stuff about a recent weekend project to hopefully help someone else in the future.

I wanted to try and do something in a Birthday wish to help lift the spirits of a friend recovering from a 9/15/19 crash at Bonneville. I thought about doing a burnout, and the easiest way to do that is with a roll control, or line lock right?

So I got one of Hurst’s Roll Control kits from Summit, some fittings from Earl’s, and a shifter knob from Speed Dawg. I didn’t want to put any more holes in the car than absolutely necessary, so I decided to run some longer bolts through the master cylinder, and create a little mounting plate to mount the solenoid.

After mounting the solenoid, I found that Earls has the 1/8 pipe thread to bubble flare metric adapters, #02112ERL, so I got 3 of them.

I used one adapter to go into the solenoid, and two to split off the bottom. I used the supplied 1/8 plug for the extra solenoid hole. After getting the plate/solenoid mounted, I created a new line to go from the master to the solenoid, and one of Empi’s 18-1103 bubble flare plugs to plug off the extra master cylinder hole. I was then simply able to rebend/reroute the factory front steel lines from the master to the solenoid.

Having one of Empi’s reproduction Hurst trigger shifters, I was kind of limited on what I could do for a switch/button. I found a nice push button shifter knob from Speed Dawg at Summit. A buddy at work then created a little brass fitting to go on the shifter that would allow the trigger mechanism to slide up inside it. Then he bored the knob to accept the fitting. As you can see from the pic, the “prototype” had a “milling mishap” launching it into the shop wall, so a little extra epoxy was used to assemble humpty dumpty. The knob appears to simply be fiberglass resin, so a little bodyshop magic will have it looking perfect over the Winter.

As for the wiring, I used a relay to take the stress off the button, even though it’s only a few amps. I took a fuse link from the battery to power the relay, and send power to the solenoid, 30, and 86. Then the 85 terminal to the shifter button to ground that would close the relay, and 87 to power the solenoid. The solenoid non-power wire was lengthened, and grounded inside the car to keep it clean.

Hope this helps someone else in the future.

[King_vw61]

I did the same. Best thing for driving in hilly areas. I use it as a hill hold. Since I don’t have an e-brake. Nice looking install.
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1961 Ragtop, Autocraft 2783cc for street/strip 10k miles and counting...230.84 HP to the wheels thru Muffler 13.4 to 1 on E85
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[VeloMikey]

Nice write up! Make this a stickie! Did you make the red bracket or is it something that can be purchased?
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'58 Ghia 2387cc with a Berg / Folts 5 Speed

Ghia Build Thread https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=768748

[kangaboy]

So just push the button and it applies pressure and brakes? How aggressive is it? Is it like using the E-Brake? What if you accidently push the button while your speeding down the on ramp from 3rd to 4th? Is it a harsh brake application? Is this mainly used for staging in a drag race, or starting from a start on a hill like mentioned?
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[sled]

[raygreenwood]

Thats an interestimg set up!

As others have mentioned it also would probably be a nice hill hold mechanism. I have always said that outside of a few places with massive vertical streets.....if you are really good with a clutch and your gears you should really not need a hill hold.

Yes...san fran and a handful of other places are an exception!

But my 2012 Golf came with hill hold (virtually all manual trans VAG cars have come with it for years). It was one of those small line item options I did not bother to read about....and it surprised me about 5 minutes after I drove it off the lot.

It works flawlessly. It actually works through the ABS system. You stop and it clutch is in and brakes were activated and if you are on any significant incline....it holds the front brakes. Any movement at all of either clutch or accelerater and it seamlessly releases. Also. It automatically releases on a hill about 2 seconds after you take your foot off the brake.....so you should be paying attention and not using for an actual brake.

So is it,worth it? Do I use it?.....well yeah. I have found its best usefulness not wo much in negotiating gears on inclines....but when sitting in lines in traffic inching forward in stop and go.....to keep even any slight rollback from happening.....because of all the dickheads who CAN'T drive...and/or the average phone user any mostly people in pickups.....all of which pull up inches from your bumper.

So.....I can see this as useful. Good mod!

Ray

[jismay]

I have a 2013 Jetta with the hill hold, and I agree its actually a great, well-implemented feature.
My driveway is on a slight slope up. I get in, start the car, release the e-brake and the hill-hold keeps the car from moving.
I actually end up just tapping the gas most times to release it and roll back out of the driveway!

I'm actually planning on doing similar to the OP and adding a line-loc to my squareback as much for the quality of life aspects as for racing.
I wonder how hard it would be to integrate a small arduino based microcontroller into the line-loc circuit to emulate the hill hold feature on a classic car?

[kangaboy]

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Thanks for the compliments!

The bracket is something I made out of a scrap section of 1/8 plate I found at work. I took a pic of it by a ruler for future reference for other personal vehicles.

The main lower measurements are the bolt spacing of the master cylinder, and the height of the opening above the mounting holes to clear the reservoir inlets for installation. The upper measurement is the height of the solenoid so it can again clear the reservoir inlets, and high enough to allow the passenger brake line to make it over the tunnel without too much manipulation. I used 2.340 that someone else had posted for the bolt spacing. It’s hard to get a measuring device in an area to measure with the master mounted. I didn’t have access to a loose master, but the 2.340 was pretty close. The bracket isn’t symmetrical because the solenoid isn’t symmetrical in its mount, and I wanted the body/fittings to be centered over the master for line placement.

[madmike]

Nice install G
just be careful of 'wheel Hop"
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[Olli from NJ]

Great install, but...where is the burnout picture?

Olli

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