The most boring build you ever watched... 1385cc

[mark tucker]

I like slide hammer for gally plugs.

[Chickensoup]

the vwnos order is on its way at usps lightning speed... jk usps is slower than the life alert actors at this point in time. also added in a few items, and bought a few parts off the eboy. next up will be the cb order followed by WW. im dropping off the crank and flywheel here soon to a local shop, and the rods wll hopefully be sent out 2marrow if i get the chance(sorry modok )

until then its more washy washy and measure measure.

_________________
-'85 c10 5.3 LS, 222 cam, long tubes, x pipe, 3 inch spin tech's
-'05 B5.5 TDI Wagon 17in sport rims ;EGR + BSM + ASV Delete, Stage-2 Tune, straight pipe
'65 Tourist Delivery Build
'66 RIP
'69 RIP
Hosea 4:6 "My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge"

[Chickensoup]

Parts started showing up today. I've got all the pieces to rebuild the dizzy. It would be awesome if someone could please point me in the right direction to finding a distributor diagram. I have two fiber washes and a few steel ones but I'm not sure where they are supposed to be placed. Thanks

_________________
-'85 c10 5.3 LS, 222 cam, long tubes, x pipe, 3 inch spin tech's
-'05 B5.5 TDI Wagon 17in sport rims ;EGR + BSM + ASV Delete, Stage-2 Tune, straight pipe
'65 Tourist Delivery Build
'66 RIP
'69 RIP
Hosea 4:6 "My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge"

[Chickensoup]

Found it

_________________
-'85 c10 5.3 LS, 222 cam, long tubes, x pipe, 3 inch spin tech's
-'05 B5.5 TDI Wagon 17in sport rims ;EGR + BSM + ASV Delete, Stage-2 Tune, straight pipe
'65 Tourist Delivery Build
'66 RIP
'69 RIP
Hosea 4:6 "My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge"

[Pruneman99]

That is for the "big cap" distributors. The 205m is a bit different I think. I'll see if I can find the diagram.

[Pruneman99]

Here, check this thread. It's the 205T, but it has the same stack as the 205M.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=606129

[Chickensoup]

[Pruneman99]

Probably flush. Will the shims sit down over the part of the bushing that's proud?

You could trim it down pretty easy in your lathe no?

[Rome]

Diagram part #21 was also used on Land Rovers.

[Chickensoup]

[Chickensoup]

crank and flywheel will be dropped off at the machine shop here soon. i asked a friend who he recommends here locally.

btw does anyone make 6mm stud hole filter pumps? can i use an 8mm OD x 2mm thick bushing and just use a new filter pump? oh, and will the maxi pump clear the stock muffler? thanks
_________________
-'85 c10 5.3 LS, 222 cam, long tubes, x pipe, 3 inch spin tech's
-'05 B5.5 TDI Wagon 17in sport rims ;EGR + BSM + ASV Delete, Stage-2 Tune, straight pipe
'65 Tourist Delivery Build
'66 RIP
'69 RIP
Hosea 4:6 "My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge"

[dunk]

[Pruneman99]

Do you have bearings for that crank? You need ones with the oil groove on the inside.

[Chickensoup]

[Pruneman99]

[modok]

Hole enlargement procedure, length set at 130mm, bored to .940

[Chickensoup]

those look familiar. what kind of fit are the bushings? press? neat way of mounting the big end too. also is that the indian boring head you modified for lathe tools? im thinking about doing the same. i have a "junk" facing/boring head with an mt2 press fit shank(useless to me), i want to practice on to run the smaller lathe tools. thanks!
_________________
-'85 c10 5.3 LS, 222 cam, long tubes, x pipe, 3 inch spin tech's
-'05 B5.5 TDI Wagon 17in sport rims ;EGR + BSM + ASV Delete, Stage-2 Tune, straight pipe
'65 Tourist Delivery Build
'66 RIP
'69 RIP
Hosea 4:6 "My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge"

[modok]

Yep, there is a washer turned to 2.275" bolted on that block to locate the big ends so they al turn out the same length.
Milling machine head is trammed to the block so the come out straight.


Now honed to about .9443"
For .004 press on the bushings.

Not the exact same boring head, but it is the same kind.
Does a nice job I had left .004 to hone out, but I could have left .001 to hone and that would have been fine.

You'd freak if you saw how easily the old bushings came out.
Decided to "TRY".....if using drill press as an arbor press is enough to push them out, and it was maybe 500-600 lbs force?
The OE bushings were just bronze, not steel backed like the new ones, but even so I was expecting a LITTLe more resistance.

[evanfrucht]

People have said the new main bearings that have the groove on the outside ARE TOO THIN to add a groove in the center. I thought about adding two small grooves about 8mm apart and parallel to center connected by the "crater" where the oil transfer hole is... but my crank is grooved so I didnt bother.

I dont think the coating will do much that's just me, just knock off any burrs/wet sand with 1500+ after grinding the grooves.

I added some small grooves to my cam bearings the other day. Why not? I used a tiny round burr bit
_________________
1967 Bug ( the daily rod )
1964 Fury Wagon ( the pavement shredder )

[Chickensoup]

ok, so i made some progress 2day. i may have a few questions at the end of my post so bear with me. or bare with me? idk. from here on out, i will try to make the updates more easy to follow with bold wording and headings and such.

Lifters/cam followers

i started off my measuring the taper of the lifter faces. i meassured the old, which are actually concave! and the new, in which all 8 are exactly .001" in the center.

ok well somehow the picture of the old lifters didnt make it in so i will edit it in tomorrow although its not that important really.

Camshaft-the old one

ok ok i know the dial is facing the wrong way but i didnt realize it until i finished set up
Heres the cam that came out of engine. just a stock brazilian cam. between my dial indicator and the cam not being mounted in the lathe chuck well enough(even with the tail stock support), i was not able to get a very consistent reading. the indicator would jump or drop randomly, and even touching the cam while it was secured threw measurements off a few thousandth.

crankshaft

when i bought my micrometer set, they sold me the zeroing tool defective. the stupid ends are machined offset so the spacer never sits straight and makes it 10x hard to find the parallel spots. wait oh crap i just realized pitburgh tools have life time warranties! anyways its a good thing i checked because my 3in micrometer was slightly off again.

#1 main AVG 2.1466", Runout .0005in
#2 main AVG 2.1467", Runout .0004in
#3 main AVG 2.1463", Runout .0008in
#4 main AVG 1.5557", Runout .0003in

as for the rod journals i ran out of time to measure them.

crankshaft straightness is at .0001 nearly dead straight!!

before i meassure the case. thrust, align bore, bearing chrush, etc. i need to make a small order. figured i may as well buy the rest of the parts for the bottom end.

ok, here come the questions,

how does a cb 2280/cheater cam sound? with the 1300 heads, stock exhaust, dual 32 pdits, slight port work.

how do i explain to my local machine shop that vw flywheels need to be re surfaced in two areas? i ask because im wondering if the machinist actually keeps track of how much material he takes off the clutch surface, so he can remove the same from the pressure plate surface.

lastly, why did vw use plain bearings with a non cross drilled crank? and is it possible to machine the journals for cross drilled oil passages?

Thanks!

oh and btw acn recommends "hd springs" for the cheater cam. why is this? lift isnt too much more than stock. and the ramps look gentle.
_________________
-'85 c10 5.3 LS, 222 cam, long tubes, x pipe, 3 inch spin tech's
-'05 B5.5 TDI Wagon 17in sport rims ;EGR + BSM + ASV Delete, Stage-2 Tune, straight pipe
'65 Tourist Delivery Build
'66 RIP
'69 RIP
Hosea 4:6 "My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge"