Walt's 1973 412 Barn Find

[NurseryWalt]

Another Saturday and more electrical stuff. Using Pepperbilly's advice, I used a small screwdriver to pop off the headlight connectors. Like most things, once you know where to push, pull or pry, it's relatively easy!

I got frustrated with this little boot over the horn connector and just cut it off. Me bad? Hopefully there is a replacement boot.

I finally got the whole front wiring harness removed.

It's amazing to me how the original German factory workers managed to route the cables into the car. Here I am doing loop-de-loops trying to remove the harness in the middle of the car.

Still a ways to go. The biggest question I ask every week, "Will I ever be able to put this all back together?"

Walter
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'66 Bug with collector plate and '73 412 project

[raygreenwood]

I beleive you can get the little horn boots at Wolfsburg West.....probably West Coast Metric....and probably ISP West. They should be the same as type 1 and 3 horn connector boots. I will check the part # later.

https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=111951195a

The problem with a lot of these small rubber parts....."re-pops" or remolded parts.....is not that they are not molded well......West Coast metric and Wolfsburg West do the best they can.....its just that modern rubber compounds are not what they used to be.

I bought a couple of sets of horn boots back in either the late 90s or early 00's. They fit fine. But became hard as a rock within a year. Thats not a problem really.....I mean how often do you remove your horn wires?

But eventually from car wash or working on things....I bumped one or two and they cracked off. Ray

[NurseryWalt]

Thank you Ray. I really like the Wolfsburg West stuff. Made a HUGE difference on my '66 Bug restoration. Too bad I found out about them at the end of my restoration.

Walter
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'66 Bug with collector plate and '73 412 project

[Pepperbilly]

Walter,

Really important to take alot of photos, label and bag everything. Do a little bit at a time and have patience. It’s harder for me during the colder months because my garage is not heated. A bit easier for me for this project because I’m retired... no rush. You will get it back together in due time... just keep the faith!

Bill

[Abelclasico]

[NurseryWalt]

Hello Abel,
The others on the forum think the trunk got rusted due to a brake fluid leak. Everything else is in fairly decent condition, considering.

Walter
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'66 Bug with collector plate and '73 412 project

[Abelclasico]

Hi Walter,
those leaky reservoirs. Mine has that same damage but on the top part of the tray.
Any updates on your restoration?
cheers,
Abel

[raygreenwood]

In my experience.....I have never found a leaky reservoir. They were pretty tough.

The only place I hsve found "leaks" are at where the blue supply hoses to the master cylinder connect. And....that leaks inside the cabin and very little in the trunk.....unless you are parked long term on a steep downhill nose first.

The main causes of brake fluid all over the place.....are several:

1. Having to fill up the reaervoir often or alot......due to master cylinder and or clutcj master and slave cylinder leaks ....been there.....means that you will occasionally be spilling brake fluid. And....unless you think in advance to put a mat or pile of paper towels under the reservoir....it will flow underneath the trunk liner and down the front trunk wall.

2. As the brake master or clutch master gets old.....and malfunctions....gets air in it. Or when you are bleeding a very air filled system.....you can get large blobs of air back up into the reservoir. If you were keeping it full to the top while working......and/or did not put the cap on it when working......it can spray upward and/or overflow. Been there and done that too.....Hence the many cars you find in the junk yard with the paint on the inside of the hood over the reservoir eaten away and rusting.

3. Part of the above problem......when you have the inner MC circuit seal cups worn out....very common.....and the outer seal is leaking (basically meaning you need a new MC).....this combined is a very common condition owners find tjemselves in on daily drivers.

So you see this start to happen......brakes still functional......its rarely perfect that you can get to a new MC or rebuild kit right away......so what do you do?

You fill the MC reservoir up to just below the reservoir cap so it wont run dry while you are out and around....right? But.....with the inner circuit seals also worn out......jabbing hard on the brakes .....causes bypass fr9m one circuit to another internally. This causes a flood of fluid back to the reservoir through the compensation ports.

It squirts out the little hole in the cap.....sprays the trunk lid and runs down under the carpet.......been there and done that too.

The moral of this....is install new blue lines ane clamp them. Keep your MC in good shape. Keep the reservoir filled only to the line....make sure you have a vented cap and have the little fluid dust strainer under the cap.

Carry a small funnel in a box and a roll of paper towels in case you have to add fluid. Ray

[NurseryWalt]

My restorer (paid friend) has made some progress this week. He took my crooked wheel arch trim and straightened it. He sent me a short video showing the shine but a few individual frames will have to do. He does amazing work.

Before:

After (3 frames):

My progress this week seems like more of the same. Removed the sound deadening board in the engine compartment:

Removed some access covers:

Got cross-eyed looking at the fuse box:

Small steps every week.
Walter
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'66 Bug with collector plate and '73 412 project

[Pepperbilly]

Walter,

He took that mangled mess and did that! Impressive. Are you having them chromed? Be great to see a picture of all of them when you are done. My trims are not bad at all but still need the dents taken out.

Bill

[NurseryWalt]

This weekend's work included removing the fusebox which allowed removing the main wiring harness. Tedious but relatively easy work.

I confess I got frustrated with one wire coming out of this relay/connector, so I did a no-no and snipped it.

The grey and red wire.

While I'm feeling good about removing wires, I'm also realizing the ones left are getting even more difficult to remove. Only two left in the main cabin.

Six white wires way in the back of the engine...can't even see where they go!

I know there are a whole bunch that I will have to get at under the vehicle. Another day!
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'66 Bug with collector plate and '73 412 project

[NurseryWalt]

Another Saturday with the 412. Snowing and below freezing. The concrete was cold! So I started with an easy project, removing the seal for the engine lid.

Then I went to the front of the car and removed the trunk lid seal.

Very nice the way the seal interlocks at the top.

To make life a little easier, I also removed the air cleaner mount.

First prize of the day, managed to remove the wire going from the computer.

Second prize of the day, removed the main cable from battery to starter.

At that point it was time to go home and warm up the feet.
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'66 Bug with collector plate and '73 412 project

[Pepperbilly]

Walter,
You are a brave man in this cold and snow! I have the same situation with an unheated garage and cold concrete. We had about 10” of snow last night. You probably figured out that the white wire bundle all attaches to that multi ground prong at the top rear of the engine block. Keep it going but don’t freeze!

Bill

[NurseryWalt]

Bill, I have an appointment with the mechanic. Trying to get all the electrical out for him. Restorer is also hoping to get started soon. He can have all the fenders, hoods, wheels for now. Plus he is already working on the chrome and dashboard. However, I don’t want to feel pressured. This is supposed to be fun.
Walter
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'66 Bug with collector plate and '73 412 project

[Pepperbilly]

Walter,
Also wanted to say that I found a metal restorer here that can do magic. He will fix all my dented fender trims like new...or so he claims. He’s been doing this a long time and I have seen his finished work. I will let you know how it turns out.

Bill

[KTPhil]

I am guessing this is the VW Diagnosis connector.

it is not needed, but may be a handy place for electrical diagnosis. Two choices: either keep them all for originality, or remove them all for simplicity.

[Hawker]

Yes, it is the diagnostic connector and should be on the firewall of the engine bay.

I would keep it, mainly because it makes following the circuit diagrams easier.

BR,

Rob

[Pepperbilly]

Yes, the VW Diagnosis port. I am keeping mine just because I am trying to stay as original as possible. It’s a good conversation piece at shows as well.

Bill

[raygreenwood]

I have also been thinking about using its power ports...for work lights....and maybe making a cool plug that plugs into the front when you open the flap....and I think in mine that not all slots are used. It might be nice to see what else I can plug into it. Ray

[Lars S]

I have kept the socket on my 412 for originality.
Also I have used the wires that goes from the battery area under the seat to the plug as sensor wires for oil temp and pressure. In that way I did not have to route new wires tio the back, just prolong these wires to the instruments.

Below a link to more socket-info.

//Lars S

http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/htm/plug.htm
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