Mondshine, how is the new Thing coming along?

[mondshine]

74-

Here are the photos of the Type 3 rear brakes on the Thing.

As I had mentioned they look just like any old drum brakes; the only difference is that the (two piece) drums are a larger diameter than Thing drums, and the shoes are quite a bit wider than Thing shoes.

Now, once more into the breech.
Pedal cluster is next.

[74 Thing]

I have always wanted to do the Type III rear brake drum conversion to my Thing but with the wide 5.

Did you need to use any new spacers between the drum and axle nut?

Did it change the mounting of the wheel in or out compared to the Thing rear 181 brake drum?

[Bryan67]

I always thought that Type3 and Thing rear brake shoes were the same diameter and width. And that just the drums were wider for a Thing.
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If you`re going to do something, do it right.

[74 Thing]

[mondshine]

74-
If I am not mistaken, you can use "old style" T3 drums, (don't know the years) which are one piece and "wide 5".

This stuff was a direct replacement (no spacers, etc.). I doubt that the overall "track" of the rear wheels has changed much; maybe 10mm or so.

You can see from the scabs on the brake drum that I have mounted one of my wheels just to have a look at it. I have 4 lug "gas burner" look-a-likes with Vredestein Sprint Classic 185VR15 tires (which are the correct diameter speedo-wise) and they look good and clear everything.

Keep in mind that I have not driven this car since the brake work, (and won't for a few months) but the pedal feels right, so I have a good feeling about this (so far).

[74 Thing]

Where did you get the backing plates and cylinders and the rest of the brake hardware and shoes from for the Type III rears?

[mondshine]

74-

I bought the complete OEVW rear brakes "set" used from the Samba classifieds.

The drums were a little too far gone for my liking, so I replaced them with Brembo (made in China ) drums. The shoes, cylinders and spring kits came from a regular on-line VW parts place.

So, as it turned out, all I used from the original VW stuff was the hubs and backing plates.

In general, Type 3 parts are not as readily available as Type 1, but still more so than 181 specific parts.

The parts for all of this brake work were considerably less expensive than the CSP front disc brake kit. I am hoping for good results.

[mondshine]

I spent a couple of hours today replacing the rubber boots on my tie rod ends.
They were all nice and tight, and clean inside, but the boots were just beginning to crack.
The job was uneventful, but I have one small item to share:

I used a welder's Vice Grips...

to squeeze the joints together enough to engage the taper so the castellated nuts could be tightened. My 19mm socket fit nicely in the "horseshoe".

Worked like a champ!

More later, Mondshine

[jakokombi]

Excellent tip on the welder's clamp, I hate that situation, too bad I won't remember this when I'm there again .
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70 Sunroof Kombi
69 Tin Top
73 Thing
72 Baja

[mondshine]

A productive afternoon in the GarageMahal.

I have finished building the main wiring harness, and have it (mostly) routed.
The wire raceway along the tunnel is in; now there's a big clump of spaghetti at the front of the tunnel and at the bulkhead inside the engine compartment.

I am waiting for a part for my gas heater; once it gets here I can finish up the dashboard wiring, brake reservoir hoses, heater & pump, steering column and fuel tank.

Still lots to do, but it's good clean fun!

[jakokombi]

So all the wires fit in the raceway?
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70 Sunroof Kombi
69 Tin Top
73 Thing
72 Baja

[mondshine]

Jako-
No.
I had to cheat. I used "ENT" non-metallic flexible conduit, 3/4".
It is held against the tunnel with M6 screws and cushioned P-clips.
It looks "OK", and should protect the wiring from misguided kicks.

I have increased the size of the main artery fo 8AWG, and have added several additional wires to the harness.
My Oil temp and oil pressure gauges and their sensors have their own ground wires, so this time I chose to ground them all to the chassis at the same location (as recommended). That means a couple of extra wires back to front. The 3/4" conduit made this possible, along with using the original heavy gauge Terminal 50 starter solenoid wire to eliminate the need for a relay back there.

So all of the extra back-to-front wires; 4 for cruise control, 3 for oil pressure, 2 for oil temp, 1 for tach, 2 for CHT, 1 for rear fog =13 extra wires (YIKES).

Here's a photo of the conduit. I think once the seats are in place, it won't be quite so ugly.

The tunnel is covered with basketeweave material that matches my seats. I think it looks a little nicer like that.

I will post more photos once it's more complete.

[av8shunmeckaneck]

[mondshine]

A few productive hours today in the GarageMahal.
I have completed the main wiring harness (except tor the terminations, which will happen much later).

I have ditched that stupid looking flexible conduit (I don't know what I was thinking) and have replaced it with regular 3/4" EMT. It looks much better now, black wrinkle paint makes it almost invisible (the look I was going for).

I have installed my battery disconnect switch, and run new battery cables.

My Harbor Freight hand-held hydraulic crimper did a perfect job on those 2AWG terminals.

Still waiting for my gas heater flame switch; it was shipped promptly from Toronto, but it has been sitting at US Customs in Chicago for a week now.

Once the heater is up and running, I will re-install the fuel tank and start working on the dashboard wiring.

I have built a marine plywood base that matches the shape of the floor under the rear seat bench on the driver's side. It is clamped down just like the battery is, and is the mount for my little air compressor, air tank, and cruise control servo. (Nice that this '73 has a second battery mount on the driver's side; won't need to Swiss cheese the floor to mount this stuff.
I will post photos of it once it is in place.

Just 6 months to go until it's "top-down-warm" outside again!

More later, Mondshine

[jakokombi]

Nice work! I like the conduit solution, looks good and the loom is well protected.

I'll have to check out that crimper, I probably have a coupon around somewhere.
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70 Sunroof Kombi
69 Tin Top
73 Thing
72 Baja

[mondshine]

I received the replacement flame switch for my gas heater, and the heater is now working perfectly. I set it for 150 seconds of run-on.

Now, I am debating taking it apart to paint or powder coat the outer case.

I sort of like those bright orange heaters, although supposedly orange indicates a rebuilt unit.
I'll think about it for a couple of days; put it off 'til next year.

Happy New Year Everybody! More fun in '21.

[KAmes]

Orange please, yes. (what made me think I get a vote )

[mondshine]

Kevin... Of course you get a vote!

I cleaned and re-greased my CV Joints today. Got to be one of my favorite tasks
I love the smell of MoS2 in the morning.

I re-used the axles and CV's from the old car; they're German GKN. I will just keep the ones that came with the '73 for posterity.

My "wrong size" Rockford CV boots still look like new. They must be 10 years old at least; I can't even remember when I bought them.
The guy that I got my grease from (owns a vintage VW/Porsche repair business) told me that the way forward for CV boots for Things and Busses is PN 191498201; The inner boots for many water cooled models.
Example: https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/191498201B

Well, that's it for now, Mondshine

[Rev. Scott]

Can't speak to the T-III to 181 brake conversion, but...I robbed the whole mess off a rusting fasty, turned the drums, new shoes, and put them on my '69 bug (rear). No modification and, while still venerable braking, improved stopping markedly. A set of EMPI discs up front (still talking bug), and I would be a happy camper. I thought the 181 rear brakes were already superior to the T-III...let me/us know how they perform...come the day. Beep Beep!
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"I haven't seen one of those since I was shootin' at 'em!"

[obus]