CV work

[Yellow Rabbit]

I have a CV joint that has been slightly knocking during long climbs. It is now knocking around right hand turns. I’m planning to take the axles apart and repack all the joints. I would like to have all the parts on hand before starting. I know I at least need one joint. Is there a way to tell externally if I should order more than just the one?

[MarkWard]

That’s tough. My choice would be to have inspected them prior to ordering. No way to tell externally. I ran a new joint along with a good used joint on my van. The new joint prematurely wore out. The new ones are so stiff, I think the used one was taking up all the movement causing the new one to remain more stationary. So, I’d replace them in pairs. Worse case you end up with a good spare. The original joints were the best ones. So don’t be quick to toss them.
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[4Gears4Tires]

If it can sit in the mean time you could slice the boots off to inspect them. That is less work than removing them. However, it's not that much less work and I would rather just pull the axle, inspect, and order parts, like Mark said.

If you can't do that, ordering 2 new or refurb axles and swapping them is a much faster course of action. Rebuild 1 of the originals as a spare.
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'87 Syncro
Ferric Oxyhydroxide Superleggera Edition

[Yellow Rabbit]

It can sit, I just don’t want to get all greasy two times. I might just order two joints and hope there are not more than 2 bad ones. Best case I have one of my ones for a spare. Worst case I have to order more later.

[Abscate]

Slight knocking which is occasional means you need 0 joints

Pull them off, clean and repack and they will be quiet for at least 10-50k miles miles
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.ssS!

[Yellow Rabbit]

That’s good to know. I crawled under the van and both inner ones have play if I move the axle vertically. I can hear the bearings so they are dry for sure.

I ordered a couple Lobro joints in case. They are not that expensive. I’ll take apart and see. If they are still VW joints maybe they are ok. I’ll dig into it next weekend.

[Jeffrey Lee]

Order parts for the worst case, so you're ready for any disappointing surprises.

Even if you find the originals can be cleaned & repacked with success, having 1-2 new CVs on board when travelling far from home is wise. And parts quality ain't getting any better, so buy good stuff now while you can.
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Camp Westfalia
Camping Tips • Newsletter • Cool Campervan Apparel
www.CampWestfalia.com

[djkeev]

Whoa! Cowboy!

A clicking CV is not always a bad CV.

A clicking CV mist likeky needs grease.

Cleaning it is good but I'd give serious hesitation to pulling out what may be an OG CV to slip in an inferior new one.

Lube your OG joint, it may last another 100,000 miles!

New parts are new....... not good or better, just new,


Dave
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Stop Dead Photo Links how to post photos

Ghia
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=392473

Vanagon
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537

Beetle
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482968&highlight=74+super+vert

[dhaavers]

[Yellow Rabbit]

[Yellow Rabbit]

One more quick question. How much lateral movement should there be? Should I be able to move the axle far enough to the outside that it hits the hub?

[dhaavers]

^^^ Normal...

- Dave
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86 White Wolfsburg Westy Weekender
"The WonderVan"
<EDITED TO PROTECT INNOCENT PIXELS>

[Abscate]

Double glove to keep the moly off your hands and clothes. It’s great stuff and doesn’t wash out, that’s why you want it in your CVs
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.ssS!

[Gnarlodious]

One thing I discovered on my recent 1200 mile drive is that grease prevents oscillation and looseness by damping harmonic vibration. I realized this when my CV joint began to vibrate and rattle. Turned out it was in perfect condition metal-wise (not pitted) except that it was dry. I simply repacked them and flipped them over to expose the other surface to pressure. Not side-by-side but just install them flipped.
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Vanagon ’83 diesel AAZ w/Giles injection, 5spd 4.57R&P+TBD and a '78 diesel Rabbit

[Yellow Rabbit]

So far so good!

[Wildthings]

You can get a good idea of the wear on the joints if you jack each wheel up in turn and with the transmission in gear have someone turn the wheel hard in each direction by hand while you slide the axle shaft back and forth laterally, if you can feel the balls dropping hard into the pits then the joint may well be worn beyond use. Note that this is NOT a definitive test.

[Syncro Jael]

Get a zerk needle grease adapter and shoot some in the joint. I do this twice a year to all CVs and they have been flawless for thousands of miles. Every 50k miles, or before a big long road trip, I will tear them down, clean, inspect, and repack then add new boots.

I used to have CV joint problems but not for years now.
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1987 Syncro Westfalia Hightop - NAHT
Subaru EJ25 Forged Frankenmotor, Triple Knob.
Jael = (Mountain Goat)

[Yellow Rabbit]

That was a fun, clean project. /s

Ended up finding 4 cv’s each dated the same date, a couple months before van was built. I ended up just swapping sides after cleaning and repacking them. The only have 80k or so on them and looked pretty good.

I did try to test fit a brand new Lobro and it would not even fit onto the axle. The bore is too small. I don’t know if it makes sense to even throw these in my part bin since they don’t even slide onto the axle.