Resolved: Clevis arm variations

[SGKent]

Going thru spare parts. Have an original clevis arm that came off the 1977 bus. have a replacement that came from one of the vendors a long time ago. Comparing the two, the new one has a longer spacing between the shaft and hole for the clevis. Also it is slightly larger. Not sure what it is. Does anyone know how the early and late clevis arms compare?

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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[germansupplyscott]

Bay and Split use a different part that looks similar. The holes/cuotuts should be the same - the clevis is the same late Split and early Bay. The hole on the shaft is the same size as well.
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SL

[kreemoweet]

I replaced my original '71 arm with one I got that was noticeably larger, and it's been working fine.
Check this out: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds//detail.php?id=2417179
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[airschooled]

Doesn't the throwout fork on the transaxle use a different length arm depending on the year, too? They should be matched, yes?
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[old DKP driver]

There may be one other size also, I have a couple of the black ones that are from the 60’s that kreemoweet posted and and also the later size Steve posted
Unless I am thinking Porsche parts.
I will look tomorrow
Chris
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V.W.owner since 1967

[old DKP driver]

Yep, the curved arm versus the straight arm require different length cables
And, will also factor in at the pedal assembly
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V.W.owner since 1967

[SGKent]

[airschooled]

Historians will appreciate your attention to details, Steve.

I will be out on the road with a clutch that feels good/must be good… But thank you for making all this info easy to find in future searches.
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[SGKent]

[SGKent]

another photo showing the difference.

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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[SGKent]

[SGKent]

So no one has a known original of either to compare to see which is the early part and which the late part?

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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[Wildthings]

[SGKent]

Hi Mike, I think the part number is etched into the clevis itself on a genuine VW one. I'll have to look. But the arm doesn't have a part number.

There have been some people who have lost pressure plates when they collapsed. I doubt if the difference in arms is enough to do that but maybe the longer arm on a bus meant to have the shorter arm might over stress the clutch pressure plate. I don't know. But it would be nice to have a definitive way to determine which is the part needed. I am pretty sure the shorter arm came off my 1977 but the PO had clutch issues so I can't say it was original.
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[kreemoweet]

[SGKent]

[SGKent]

[bump]
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[SGKent]

Think this mystery is resolved. I enlisted the help of Ken Madsen at TheBusco to help me out on this one. He is such a great help, and for me one of the go to folks for good quality reasonably priced used parts. I can't begin to thank him enough. He has helped me so many times.

Ken took a look at his parts, and over a couple days we determined that the clevis variations fall into 4 categories which are, Split, Early Bay, Late Bay and repop.

The Split ones are part number 211-721-374. They are 24mm between the rectangular hole and clevis hole. They have a notch on the exterior.

The Early Bay ones are part number 211-721-374A. They lack the notch that was on the Split ones. They are also in the 23mm - 24mm range. The Year & VIN the part changed is removed in the fiche and parts book, but it looks like mid-1968. Because the pivot distance is the same as the earlier one, it may simply be that the exterior of the part was cleaned up to get more parts per stamping, or that the part was made from a different size piece of raw stock.

The Late Bay ones are part number 211-721-374B. They are smooth like the A part but smaller, and are 20mm between the clevis hole and the rectangular hole.

The repops can vary in size from 16mm to 24mm.

The length of the arc that the clevis hole follows will change how far the cable pulls. This in turn will affect how far the pressure plate is compressed. My suggestion would be to use the correct one for your bus so not to over stress the pressure plate, or under compress it. Ken has a good supply of them so if you need one next time you are replacing a cable, he is a good person to go to for them. Regardless where you buy one, make sure it is the correct part for your year bus.

I enclose a photo of some of the ones Ken used to make the measurements.

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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[airkooledchris]

Here's one for the FAQ/Sticky

thanks for the hard work.