1979 VW Bus Westfalia - First Restoration Project

[AUBeatz]

Hello Everyone and Merry Christmas!!

I am a new member of Samba as I have just become the new owner of a 1979 VW Bus Westfalia! This forum has already been an incredible resource as I begin learning about these buses. I acquired this bus from a friend of mine who has had his eyes on it for nearly 10 years. The person he bought it from was the original owner who bought it brand new in Germany. After 4 years of traveling through Germany, Spain, and Portugal the original owner shipped it via boat to the states. Supposedly, it has been sitting almost the entire time since in a carport on a concrete slab. The interior is immaculate for 41 years old and the fabric on the seats (especially in the back) look almost unused!

The bus has 47,500 miles on it! A service record given to my friend, who I bought it from, from the original owner shows that the engine was completely rebuilt in 1993 at 42,000 miles. It looks like the following things were replaced at that time:

Cylinders, pistons, crankshaft, hydraulic lifters, gaskets, plugs, wires, oil filter, oil, fuel filter, hose clamps, engine compartment seal, main bearings, rod bearings, crankshaft bearings, clutch, exhaust valves, intake valve, rear brake cylinder, rear drums, brake shoes, cleaned fuel injectors, points, and I'm sure a few other things.

My question now is - since all of that was done 5k miles ago, but also 27 years ago, which of those things would need to be cleaned/replaced/repaired now in order to get the engine running again? My plan is to syphon out the old gas and oil. Charge up the battery, put in fresh oil and gas and see what happens. The only thing I have done so far is connect jumper cables to it and turn the key over to make sure it wasn't seized up. The belt turned and it attempted to turn over so that tells me it isn't locked up. Any help/suggestions would be incredibly appreciated!

My plan is to restore this beauty back to life and take my wife and 18 month old son traveling and camping in it in the future! I know it will take time but am hopeful that I can get it up and running soon. I already have ordered tires and they will come in in a few days.

I will continue to post throughout this journey and utilize as much of your advice as possible! Thanks again for taking a look and any help as appreciated more than you know!

[pioneer1]

Nice. You will need a new battery. They dont last that long.
I would drain the gas from either of the outlets on the bottom of the tank. Collect it and check for junk, rust, etc. That will indicate the condition of the insides. Replace fuel filter.
There are lots of vendors selling parts but you would be surprised how many are available at your local auto parts seller and Rock Auto. This will probably start discussions about made in China junk but WHAT isnt made in China anymore.
_________________
"Always waiting for tomorrow ruined everything"

'85 Porsche 911 Targa

'76 Westfalia project

[AUBeatz]

Thank you so much for the quick response! I figured I would prob need a new battery. Great advice for using the two drains in the tank and for collecting the gas and inspecting it afterwards. Good to know about local parts store. Thanks!!

[skills@eurocarsplus]

if i were you...

i'd pull the engine and reseal it. your hydraulic lifters are beyond bled down sitting 27 years and there is a fantastic chance there is a rust ridge in the cylinders, possibly the valve stems.

if you want to "make it run" and roll the dice, go for it as-is.
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[CessnaJon]

Well holla if you need a hand, I’m down in Senoia.
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1973 Westy (shared birthday)
1990 Westy Multivan
2015 Passat TDI 6sp
2015 Sportwagon TDI 6sp
LR-JET, Gulfstream 159

[AUBeatz]

[AUBeatz]

[EZ Gruv]

The interior looks pretty nice. I'd love to see a decent shot of that radio in the dash; looks interesting.
_________________
Eric
1977 Deluxe Westfalia - 2.0L FI Type IV, Completely Original
Photographer for HotVWs, VolksWorld, AirMighty, VW Camper & Commercial, Hayburner, and more.
My Photography Page.

[skills@eurocarsplus]

[Wildthings]

Assume that every rubber hose, seal, boot, and elbow is bad and change them out before bothering to get it started. This specifically means the fuel hose, the rubber brake hoses, and the various parts of the intake air system.

I would want to dump a small amount of oil down into the intake (or spark plug holes) before trying to start it to give the cylinder walls some lube and would rig up a way to dump some oil down into the port for the oil pressure switch, the prime the oil galleys. I would also mix your new fuel with at least enough 2-cycle oil to give between a 100:1 and 50:1 mix to keep the cylinder walls and valve stems lubed during your first couple of hundred miles of use.

You likely need to add a "1" before your mileage estimate.

[Slip356]

No way a type IV Vw needs rebuild at 24K miles. 124K or even 224K is more likely. Drivers seat is more evidence.
All good advice here, please follow it and you will be happy.
Good luck

[KentABQ]

[RalphWiggam]

Listen to what skills and wild things said.

Don't try and just crank away on this thing thinking you are going to be driving it to the beach in 20 minutes.

Change ALL the fuel lines. Pull the engine. Take the tins off and inspect everything. Pour some MMO down the plug holes and let it sit.

Spending a couple days doing this stuff now will save you weeks of time and frustration.

I kind of doubt the low miles thing. Unless this bus was used as a mail truck at a salt mine or something.

[HoboBus]

Man what a great looking Bus! It looks like it's all just light surface rust - no real rot, slider door looks great, etc. Congrats.

Definitely follow the advice here. A fuel injected bus is not the vehicle to just throw in a battery and see if it'll start. Unless you've got marshmallows and hotdogs on sticks ready for the fire. All new fuel lines and hoses are required, etc.

[AUBeatz]

[AUBeatz]

[AUBeatz]

[wagohn]

Also sprinkle into any work the factual limits to your mechanical skills. Pulling any engine isn't "easy", and a Type 4 less so. Don't lose interest in your renovation by being intimidated by a laundry list of "must dos" that may or may not apply.

We rescued our 76 from the PO's front yard and it had sat dormant for over a year. Refreshed the brakes, ignition, and any needed hoses without removing the motor. It started right up and we've driven it thousands of miles since - YMMV. Would it be advantageous if we had pulled the engine? Who knows. My lack of knowledge of Type 4 engines would probably introduce more issues than it would fix. Here's us 3 days ago in a Xmas parade. Drive it and have fun.

PS - Cool bus you have there.

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1976 VW Transporter, 2.0 FI Engine

[mikewire]

Looks like a fun project! When stuff sits, it is a lot of work but worth it all when it's functional again.

Yeah, I agree with Skills and everyone else...just pull the engine...it's not that tough and you'll need the practice

Lots to also inspect and possibly replace while the engine is out...including clutch, rear main, even shift linkage bushings etc. and don't forget a new engine seal.

Let's also address the F.I. system: nothing with the Bosch AFC system likes to sit very long, so you'll want to check all the injectors, cold start injector, regulator and pump, AFM, TSII, and more are in functionally good to excellent condition. Plus make sure you have all new F.I. hoses and clamps as suggested earlier.

Lots of resources here, plus a ton of expert advice, so be sure to search and ask questions, good luck!!
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-Mike

@countdowngarage
@bigskyeuro

1972 VW Kombi 9 Passenger Deluxe w/ 2.0L F.I. VWAC swap
1965 VW Beetle Deluxe Bahama Blue

[cmonSTART]

Personally I approach new projects a bit differently. I like to do a small amount of work to get them running just to see how they sound. Do they make good oil pressure? Any bad noises? Does it smoke? I would rather find out now than pull the engine and reseal and all, then find out and have to do it all again.

I would: Make sure mice haven't moved in. Change the oil. Fix any vacuum lines that are obviously shot. Lube the cylinder walls with something, maybe the valve train too. Then start it and see if you can get the lifters to pump up - it might take a bit.

Then you will know if you have any issues you NEED to address, bad sounds and such when you pull it to do the reseal.

That's my .02
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'78 Bus 2.0FI
de K1IGS