Chassis painting?

[AREX]

Hi,

My KG chassis is sandblasted with new floor panes welded on and all small necessary repairs.

My shop recommends a primer and then a powder coating (gloss black).

Do you think this is a good solution? Or maybe a primer and a paint with a hardener will be better as theoretically more flexible?

I don't want to be smarter than a shop specialist, but it's always worth asking...

A friend told me to first galvanize (zinc) the chassis and then paint it ... I know in theory it sounds good, but such a large galvanizing bath is far from me and you would have to transport the chassis on a trailer ...
the second concern is whether it will bend during galvanization?

[infiniteLoop]

I thought powder coating had to be heated in an oven. I don't see how powder coating or hot dip galvanization could be practical.

If you have a rust free surface, a product like Rustbullet / MasterSeries and so on ,should be an excellent surface to put a real oil based under coating on. If you store the car in a dry environment ,it should out last you.

[Braukuche]

People powder coat pans all the time. It will be more durable than paint, but more expensive. It’s also not going to look stock, if that’s a consideration.
I’d stay away from the brush on stuff. If you chose paint do it right and use real two part paint.
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[infiniteLoop]

Is the entire pan being powder coated? I think it would be cumbersome to try to weld in a powder coated pan.

[AREX]

It will be powder coated after welding process, and yes entire floor (chasiss) will be painted this way.

[Mike Fisher]

I would brush/spray www.masterseriesct.com in silver & black on the pan/chassis/inner fenders/suspension.
The satin silver first & then the glossy black comes out real nice & easy to touch up it gets damaged!
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[viiking]

Why primer? I thought powder coat was applied to bare sandblasted metal. Am I wrong here?

To do it properly you would need to blast the chassis a second time before powder coating otherwise flash rust will remain under the powder coat.

The only other thing I am concerned with in powder coating is what sort of roads are you driving on. I've seen photos of powder coated parts which have had rock chips exposed the metal only for the powder coat to rust underneath and then the powder coat falls off in flakes.

I too think that painting with either a two pack paint or a moisture cured polyurethane paint is the way to go and much easier to repair if it gets chipped.
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1966 Lancia Flavia Pininfarina Coupe - in the waiting room
Discharged: 1983 Vanagon, 1974 1800 Microbus,1968 Low Light,1968 Type 3

[viiking]

Why primer? I thought powder coat was applied to bare sandblasted metal. Am I wrong here?

To do it properly you would need to blast the chassis a second time before powder coating otherwise flash rust will remain under the powder coat.

The only other thing I am concerned with in powder coating is what sort of roads are you driving on. I've seen photos of powder coated parts which have had rock chips exposed the metal only for the powder coat to rust underneath and then the powder coat falls off in flakes.

I too think that painting with either a two pack paint or a moisture cured polyurethane paint is the way to go and much easier to repair if it gets chipped.
_________________
1968 1500 RHD Lotus White Beetle since birth. In the hospital for major surgery
1966 Lancia Flavia Pininfarina Coupe - in the waiting room
Discharged: 1983 Vanagon, 1974 1800 Microbus,1968 Low Light,1968 Type 3

[esde]

I hate powder coat for any frame or chassis, especially with old metal. Too much experience with chipping or flaking, and it never gets into the seams like a good paint can. If it's a driver, give it a heavy coat of epoxy primer, then carefully seam seal any voids, and recoat with epoxy. The epoxy is super tough, and I have never had it chip. The only thing that kills epoxy is UV, but under the car it's not an issue.
Galvanizing would be cool, if you didn't care about adding an extra hundred pounds or so. It adds up fast, especially on hollow forms.
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