Rebuilding "Sweetheart", our Manx Buggy

[Tom_Kathleen]

Paul - yes that is a powder coat finish. It is a primer with "Silver Vein" top coat. You can also put a clear over that for a shiny finish. I thought it would not show dirt like plain black. It didn't cost any extra, but it was not a color my local place (Central Connecticut Coatings) had in stock. It was about $1000.00 for the chassis, diagonal training arms and a few other small parts.
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Manxter #16, 1968 Meyers Manx & Kick-Out SS #16 (WIP)
Manx Club & CVA

[hillmotorsports]

Thanks Tom
At 7 hrs away your local coater isn't exactly handy but the info is good for future reference. Do you have any idea how the price is calculated?
There is a company with a terrific reputation an hour away in Ottawa but we have a good deal more to get done before we need to worry about finish!
If they ever get our border with the US reopened we need to try to arrange a get-together. Vincent and France are 90 minutes east of us, a few others in the Montreal area as well, plus a few more west of here, more around Ottawa.

Paul
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Rosemarie and Paul Hill
Morrisburg, Ontario

(With way more projects than spare time!)

[Tom_Kathleen]

Paul - powder coating is based on square footage. That would determine the amount of time to sandblast the surface and the amount of powder needed. Yes, we all need to get back together when the "plague" is over.
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Manxter #16, 1968 Meyers Manx & Kick-Out SS #16 (WIP)
Manx Club & CVA

[Tom_Kathleen]

Well you gotta love (hate) aftermarket parts. I was trying to put the rear torsion bars and spring plates in with the diagonal trailing arms and ran into this.

According to my Bently manual the spring plate was supposed to be outside of the trailing arm. That would not work at all, even with the spring plate spaced out. So, I put it on the inside, and it looks like this.

That will work but now I need to make a spacer to fill the gap. Also the holes in the spring plate do not match up with the holes in the trailing arm. Moving on the the front transaxle mount, there is very little room on the back side of the mounting bracket on the chassis for a nut.

So, I had to cut down a nylock 7/16's nut to fit and even ground a little material off the cross tube for it to fit. And of course the holes were too close together, so I had to elongate the holes in the front mount.

I may have to make a front transaxle strap for some peace of mind that the transaxle will stay in place. More time and more fabrication, but as long as it works, it is fun.

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Manxter #16, 1968 Meyers Manx & Kick-Out SS #16 (WIP)
Manx Club & CVA

[Marlin]

Hi Tom
Your spring plate is correct,(no spacer) The spring plate is designed to twist with the camber/ angle of the trailing arm as it travels up and down
The trailing arm is resting on the stop making it look as if there is a gap

[Tom_Kathleen]

Thanks Marlin. When I went to make a cardboard template, I noticed there was no gap at the bottom. I will just bolt it and twist it together. Some assembly required. Tom
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Manxter #16, 1968 Meyers Manx & Kick-Out SS #16 (WIP)
Manx Club & CVA