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puchfinnland Samba Member
Joined: December 26, 2005 Posts: 279 Location: Deale Maryland
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Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2021 10:15 am Post subject: Re: Rebuild...... 1990 Air Conditioning |
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My A/C is yet to be rebuilt,
I was seriously considering aluminum or Copper for the long runs for and aft, every rubber hose will eventually leak, and is far more expensive then pipe, I know all rubber can not be replaced due to vibration, but this is the diriction i am thinking. _________________ ABYC marine master technician , EX European auto technician, new business- EASTCOASTWEST , custom work on campers, only systems, no mechanical |
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MarkWard Samba Member
Joined: February 09, 2005 Posts: 17014 Location: Retired South Florida
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Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2021 11:38 am Post subject: Re: Rebuild...... 1990 Air Conditioning |
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No reason you couldn’t. Stray road debris might flatten it though. Rubber is a little more flexible. Mount it in board up against the floor. _________________ ☮️ |
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djkeev Samba Moderator
Joined: September 30, 2007 Posts: 32433 Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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djkeev Samba Moderator
Joined: September 30, 2007 Posts: 32433 Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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djkeev Samba Moderator
Joined: September 30, 2007 Posts: 32433 Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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weekenderraf Samba Member
Joined: December 16, 2015 Posts: 27 Location: Olen Belgium
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Posted: Tue Jan 19, 2021 7:42 am Post subject: Re: Rebuild...... 1990 Air Conditioning |
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Is the AC pressure Switch (nr. F129, current track 23-24 in the wiring diagram, part nr: 357959139B??) a real trinary switch with three functions: a low pressure cut on (opens below ca 30psi) switch in series with a high pressure cut off (ca 400 psi) switch both to protect the compressor and a fan switch to energise the radiator fan at 220-250 psi. The low pressure action of the switch is only a 'loss of charge' action.
Or is it only a low pressure (30 psi) cut on switch combined with a "2nd stage" rad fan medium pressure (ca 15 bar) switch without the high pressure cutoff of a real trinary switch, then it is only a combination of the older two switch setup |
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MarkWard Samba Member
Joined: February 09, 2005 Posts: 17014 Location: Retired South Florida
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Posted: Tue Jan 19, 2021 8:41 am Post subject: Re: Rebuild...... 1990 Air Conditioning |
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Binary or Trinary? It gets a little confusing. The vintage air trinary switch actually only has 2 functions. Low pressure cut and high pressure for a condensor fan.
The vanagon switch as described does 3 functions from memory. Low pressure cut, medium pressure for kicking the radiator fan speed to medium, and a high pressure compressor cut.
On my vintage air, I wired it similar to the factory air except for the high pressure cut. I'm using the vintage air trinary switch screwed into the dryer.
On my 90, I thought about relocating the high pressure port, but in the end, on a camper short of removing the stuff in there, it's pretty easy access and the factory wiring is all terminated there. Not a deal breaker. That said, my wiring etc was still intact.
The hydraulic supply shop cut the barbs off the factory manifold and welded on new barbs for the 134 hose. Those barbs would work with the ez clip system.
Otherwise, no reason not to relocate the fill port and you could install the trinary switch into the drier.
The thing about non stock wiring and I run into this all the time. It's fine for the person that does the wiring, but the next owner if he has a problem with a modified wiring is now paying for someone to figure out the wiring in addition to the problem. _________________ ☮️ |
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djkeev Samba Moderator
Joined: September 30, 2007 Posts: 32433 Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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weekenderraf Samba Member
Joined: December 16, 2015 Posts: 27 Location: Olen Belgium
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Posted: Tue Jan 19, 2021 12:09 pm Post subject: Re: Rebuild...... 1990 Air Conditioning |
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4 wires are sufficient: 2 wires for the fan switch (current track 22-23) and two wires for the two in series connected pressure switches (Low and Hi) current track 24-26. In normal operation both the pressure switches are closed and the current can 'flow' to the AC clutch relay J44
Current track numbers are those of the wiring diagram 97.144 (Water cooled-Digifant 1989)
Raf |
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djkeev Samba Moderator
Joined: September 30, 2007 Posts: 32433 Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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weekenderraf Samba Member
Joined: December 16, 2015 Posts: 27 Location: Olen Belgium
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Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2021 3:29 am Post subject: Re: Rebuild...... 1990 Air Conditioning |
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This website shows a trinary pressure switch (last picture) with OEM number vw 357959139B, according to the specifications it switches to three different pressure values: Low pressure open (<) 1.20 bar, fan close 16.0 bar and high pressure open 32.0 bar
Raf |
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weekenderraf Samba Member
Joined: December 16, 2015 Posts: 27 Location: Olen Belgium
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Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2021 3:44 am Post subject: Re: Rebuild...... 1990 Air Conditioning |
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I forgot the name of the website: [url]vwsyncro.eu/p/climatronic-repair.html[/url] |
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djkeev Samba Moderator
Joined: September 30, 2007 Posts: 32433 Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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MarkWard Samba Member
Joined: February 09, 2005 Posts: 17014 Location: Retired South Florida
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Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2021 6:44 am Post subject: Re: Rebuild...... 1990 Air Conditioning |
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Check the wiring for the vintage air trinary switch. I remember it has 3 wires, but only 2 functions. The factory switch has 4 wires and is a true trinary switch.
The factory air cuts the compressor when the rad fan is on high. I didn’t worry about adding that feature. Those situations are rare and I can certainly remember to shut off the AC. _________________ ☮️ |
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djkeev Samba Moderator
Joined: September 30, 2007 Posts: 32433 Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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Posted: Sat Jan 23, 2021 12:46 pm Post subject: Re: Rebuild...... 1990 Air Conditioning |
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Well, look what some nice person left on my front porch!
It showed up while I was at BusDepot picking up some parts.
A Sanden 709 A/C Compressor!
I got it from VintageAir but it was cheaper buying it from one of their distributors because of a free freight offer!
Go Figure.........
Anyway, obviously the rear ports are different.
This is of little concern because I am installing all new hoses.
I will need to mount the compressor at a 90° rotation counter clockwise to allow the ports to clear the engine cover. (As viewed from the rear of the Van looking forward)
The Big size 10 Suction port will be highest up and will need to make a fast 90° turn. The #10 hose comes down the D pillar from the Evaporator.
The #8 pressure port will also get a 90° but head immediately up front to the Condenser.
I'm making a hose and fitting shopping list right now.
I've read that, with a few minor mods, these old Sanden compressors make amazing compressed air pumps!
Dave _________________ Stop Dead Photo Links how to post photos
Ghia
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=392473
Vanagon
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537
Beetle
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482968&highlight=74+super+vert |
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djkeev Samba Moderator
Joined: September 30, 2007 Posts: 32433 Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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djkeev Samba Moderator
Joined: September 30, 2007 Posts: 32433 Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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djkeev Samba Moderator
Joined: September 30, 2007 Posts: 32433 Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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Posted: Wed Feb 10, 2021 11:00 am Post subject: Re: Rebuild...... 1990 Air Conditioning |
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Well....... it's not too bad outside today, mid 20’s but no wind.
I figured I should get the A/C Condenser mounted. I'll need to put the radiator back in to get the new stainless steel cooling pipes properly situated so I can put the engine back in.
So, todays task? Condenser!
First I held up the condenser with ZIP ties and installed the radiator.
Why install the radiator?
I wanted to make sure the new Condenser and the radiator don't try to occupy the same physical space.
I also wanted to make sure I don't block access to the thermo switch for the cooling fan.
After holding things in position, I marked the Condenser mounting flange where it needs to be cut away for the thermo switch.
Here the condenser is on the bench to cut out the flange, the tape measure is showing you where to cut your flange before installing it in your Van.
It is aluminum, it cuts easily, just cut the flange..... don't damage the condenser.
_________________ Stop Dead Photo Links how to post photos
Ghia
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=392473
Vanagon
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537
Beetle
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482968&highlight=74+super+vert |
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MarkWard Samba Member
Joined: February 09, 2005 Posts: 17014 Location: Retired South Florida
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Posted: Wed Feb 10, 2021 11:14 am Post subject: Re: Rebuild...... 1990 Air Conditioning |
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Found this picture in my syncro folder. Rather than attach the condenser to the radiator, I mounted it to the front of the van with some simple aluminum brackets using existing holes in the nose and adel clamps for the bottom. I used weather strip foam insulation from HD to fill the gap between the two. I also covered the condenser with cardboard during mockup to keep from bending the fins. No problem clearing the rad fan switch.
The clearance problem I did run into was having enough room for the 90 degree hose fittings to clear the chassis and the hoses run out the bottom to the frame rail.
_________________ ☮️ |
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26kick Samba Member
Joined: June 12, 2006 Posts: 128 Location: Long Beach, CA
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Posted: Sun May 30, 2021 10:32 pm Post subject: Re: 1990 Air Conditioning |
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kamzcab86 wrote: |
Abscate wrote: |
On the green wire.
It’s a cinch with all that burnt stuff the clutch relay is INOP and someone bypassed the blue (IIRC) clutch relay trigger with a green voltage shunt to a manually switched shunt |
^This.
While doing a pre-flight inspection and clean, still had time to kill while waiting for my neighbor to return my borrowed saw. So, I opened it up:
No tapped wire. The blue wire runs straight to the relay block, by itself.🍺 |
Hey Kam, how do you like that fuse holder you're using in place of the 50A fusible link? My fuse holder is a bit melted and I'm thinking about replacing it with one of those, or this: https://www.amazon.com/Fastronix-250-MEGA-Fuse-Hol...ljaz10cnVl
I've cleaned my grounds and also run a parallel 12v from my alternator but it still gets hot. Thanks!
Last edited by 26kick on Mon Jun 07, 2021 11:08 am; edited 1 time in total |
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