Fuel pump rod setup

[EBSTEVE]

I have an alternator fuel pump and the correct rod but there seems to be a bunch of fuel getting pumped. I recall a setup of the pump rod that sets how far the rod is supposed to stick up but I have nothing in my manual and could not find it searching.
It's a new 1776 and the first time in 20+ years I'm not using an electric pump.
Anyone have any info?

[andk5591]

In the down position, it should be just barely above the pedestal. And depending on your pump, they can be way off. I have tried several aftermarket ones and have seen pressure from 2 to 8 lbs. I only use the Brosal alternator style anymore. They are consistently right on the money.

Measure your pressure and see what you have.
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[EBSTEVE]

The only fuel pressure gauges I have are high pressure for efi and a permanently mounted low pressure on my 2094 in my 56..... guess I'm buying a gauge. Should have one anyway.
Thanks!

[modok]

max protrusion of the fuel pump rod should be 13mm, it's in the manual

Or 5mm for the shorter "alternator" pump, which...I think is probably not in the manual.

[EBSTEVE]

Thanks, great info as always modok, neither spec is in my manual....... maybe after 30 years is time to get a better book lol.

[Ulu]

Sorry to resurrect this old post but I am having the same sort of issues. At least on paper, because I haven’t removed my fuel pump yet and I am replacing an old style with an alternator style. I also have the alternator style rod.

My Bentley manual says that maximum rod projection is a half inch above the top gasket. It also says 13 mm and of course there’s 0.02” difference. It shows a photograph of a depth gauge on the rod and it sure looks like 13 mm up. Or half-inch. Hard to say lol

My John Muir manual says 5 mm (or 3/16 which is slightly less) for the alternator style rod, but the Bentley doesn’t give this dimension.

Soooo . . The new rod is 8 mm shorter and it sticks up five. 5+8 = 13 right?

I’m gonna set it up for 5 mm, and it sounds like the difference between 3/16 and 5 mm (which is 0.012 inches) OR Even the difference between 13 mm and 1/2 (0.020”) is no big deal. I am going to shoot for a gasket sickness that gives me 3/16 rather than 5 mm, hoping I won’t have an over pressure problem with this new hongkong fuel pump.

In the old days dad would’ve greased the gaskets but I took these paper gaskets and shot them with plastic paint both sides. I have always painted my gaskets ever since they invented acrylic plastic paint.

If that paint gives me an extra 0.010”-0.015” Because the gaskets won’t compress as much, I will be very happy.

I think all these figures were a little confusing until I added eight and five and got 13 LOL
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SS100 kit kar
1600cc DP

[mukluk]

The fuel pump pushrod stroke is supposed to be 5mm, regardless of pump style. For a generator type pump the pushrod protrusion specs are 8mm at the bottom of the stroke and 13mm at the top of the stroke as measured from the pump base with gaskets in place -- it's also best to lightly install the pump hardware to hold the base & gaskets in place to ensure an accurate measurement. With the alternator style pump pushrod being 8mm shorter (100mm versus 108mm), the protrusion measurements are then going to be zero/flush with the base at the bottom of the stroke, and 5mm at the top of the stroke.
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1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga"

[EBSTEVE]

I set mine at 5mm per the recommendation of Modok and it's all good, stacked a couple gaskets to get it correct.

[Ulu]

Well I can adjust the protrusion by adjusting gasket thickness and base isolator thickness but there’s no way to increase pump motion. I guess the cam has worn off. I don’t get more than 2 mm of motion.

I thought the main jet was clogged because the car wouldn’t go over 55 mph. I think I’m gonna put the electric fuel pump back on until I find a new drive gear.

Also it starts way too easy and I haven’t checked the timing. I think it needs to be advanced a little bit and the dwell is probably short.
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SS100 kit kar
1600cc DP