1700 t4 will not run with valves "properly adusted"

[74 Westy]

Thanks for the diagram, a little reassurance that Im not messing up the basics.

[SGKent]

when you adjust the valves with it on TDC #3 where are the valves on #1? Are both closed? or is one opening? These are solid lifter being adjusted to .006" ?
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[74 Westy]

Both valves on #1 are closed with no slack on rocker when #3 is at tdc. These are solid lifters being adjusted to .006

[74 Westy]

Just thinking about other valve train related things that could cause an issue. This engine was never complete before i got it so the parts came from all over the place and it has never run in this config. The rocker assemblies and pushrods are all from a AW 1800 that was in the woods and have the larger diameter adjustment screws. I noticed that the adjustment screws are really far out when i adjust the valves (as in they are screwed almost all the way in to the rocker with only 2 threads sticking out the top). This is my first VW engine have nothing to compare to so I have no idea if this is right or wrong.

[Jrh5r]

Just went through this on my 1.7L rebuild. I wasn’t doing the building, but my father was. Had an issue pop up where the valve adjustment nuts were really tight on some and really loose on others. The pushrods on certain cylinders had fallen out of their cups and weren’t allowing the valves to do their thing. We had to make sure all the pushrods were in the cups and tighten down the tappets and then make the valve adjustment. This is with a scat cam and a basic stock or close to stock grind. We were close to running out of threads on the adjustment screws. I’m guessing the different grind is enough to almost need new pushrods. Not sure if any of this helps, but maybe it’ll spark a new idea to chase

[RWK]

maybe the exhaust and intake rockers are switched? just a guess since it was a basket case engine
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73 Type 181
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63 Type 261- 428 071
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