New Dude with 1974 Super Beetle...

[polypetalous]

Hello all.
New to the forum, been lurking for a lil bit thought it was time to jump in...
Apologies if there is a better place for this kinda post.

Anyways, I am the "partial owner" of a 1974 Super Beetle, called Charlie.
Charlie was purchased new by my mother-in-law and for all intents and purposes is my wife's car. Charlie has not been "on the road" in ~12-years and really has been occupying space in my garage for 10-years.
I swore I'd never really get into Charlie, mostly due to lack of excitement over a VW, other priorities etc.
BUT here recently I have reorganized my garage, which gave me a real workable space and well... that leaves one giant unfinished task: Charlie.

So I have begun to dig into Charlie.
First things first is that there are NO brakes. So been doing all new brakes at the corners, master cylinder, lines etc. pretty much ALL brake components short of pedal and reservoir.

Not sure how far I will ultimately take Charlie, but goal numero uno is to get him at least drive-able.

Sure I will have lots of questions and such, though will search first... promise..

and here is Charlie (terrible pics), not really sure what all I have here... 1600 DP with 009 distributor, pretty sure but not sure on what carb I have, as of yet.
If anyone has advise, caution, pity etc to share I am all ears.

Thanks for looking.

Ben

[AutoMechanic]

Welcome. Charlie I’m sure will be a great beetle. I like the black and red paint job that was my school colors so I think that is cool.

[ashman40]

Carb appears to be a Weber 32/36 progressive 2bbl. The carb is a good carb, but when used on a T1 engine you need lots of heat for the intake runners to keep the fuel from condensating inside the intake. Make sure the heat riser tubes running from the #2 & #4 exhaust ports are working well.

From your engine pics it looks like there was an oil or fuel leak (dark color of engine). Something you should look into before you start the engine. You may want to consider replacing all the fuel hoses with new and blow out the fuel lines with compressed air. You may also want to consider rebuilding the carb if it has been sitting for years. Other than the non-stock carb and distributor that engine looks pretty stock.
_________________
AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[halfassleatherworks]

The intake manifold center section, carb and distributor have all been replaced aftermarket. if the hose on right side of the T on the breather goes to the valve cover that has been modified also.
IMO, after sitting so long replace all fuel lines from the gas tank to the carb and blow out the hard line. also vacuum lines on the fuel vapor canister and tank . before you even try to start it.
_________________
Halfass Leatherworks*****GOT LEATHER Made to order Leather crafts, you can find us on that face book thing

Belts, wallets, mouse pads, drink coasters, Engraving, most things made in leather.

personal items if you want it in leather in Reno Nv, *****

[polypetalous]

Awesome info already thank you everyone...
So a Weber 32/36 progressive 2bbl carb, porbably ... interesting that it is aftermarket.
And will have to look more into the statement: "The carb is a good carb, but when used on a T1 engine you need lots of heat for the intake runners to keep the fuel from condensating inside the intake. Make sure the heat riser tubes running from the #2 & #4 exhaust ports are working well.

I do know that Charlie was "re-done" sometime in the early 90's, body on frame soda blast and re-paint (was originally all black)... and I am assuming an engine re-build at that time.

Kinda glad you all are recommending replacing fuel lines... I have been having an internal debate on removing the gas tank as I suspect it would make the brake master cylinder and brake line replacement easier... as well this would force me to address the fuel lines (maybe even clean/seal tank).

I did start the engine up ~2-years ago and did actually fire up and ran seemingly ok, but didn't run it long.... will now hold off starting again until fuel lines/tank are addressed.

Gotta admit, I have already learned my first lesson... was amazed at how "cheap" Beetle parts are, got the whole brake system setup for real cheap.
Definitely can see now there is a difference in "part quality" that equates to price...

Thanks again.
Ben

[Michael Ambrozik]

Nice car, looks like a little work coming your way. As said you may need to replace hoses and do a little rebuilding but have fun and good luck.

[irvanm]

Welcome. I'm in Lawrence so another Kansan, love the car, looks like a time capsule.

[67rustavenger]

Make it safe first (Brakes). Then work on getting it driving.
Yes all the rubber hoses. Brake lines, fuel lines, ect...

Here's an article from ACN on making a Progressive carb work on a T1 VW.
https://www.aircooled.net/making-weber-progressive-dfev-work-aircooled-vw-engine/

ACN is also a great place to get parts for your car. John (the owner posts here frequently) rates the quality of the parts he carries. So you are less likely to get junk that doesn't fit or function properly.

Get the above done. Give the car a bath. And drive it before doing major changes.
That way you and your wife can fall in love with the car and enjoy it Soooo much more.
_________________
I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[polypetalous]

Hey all,
So nearly two-months after starting this thread, I am nearing completion of "new brakes for Charlie." (ALL completely new, aside from drums)
Perhaps the longest brake job in history?

Only need to re-attach pedal assembly and bleed (fingers crossed)...

Which brings me to next question:
How best, do you re-attach the "Clutch Cable" to the pedal assembly when reinstalling pedal assy?

Do you need to undo the clutch cable from the trans (wingnut), attach pedal hook/cable to pedal assy, reinstall pedal assy and then re-attach clutch cable at trans (wingnut)?

Is it possible to "hook" the cable and just reinstall pedal assy, without messing with cable further?

Tricks/tips? Ill take anything y'all got!
Thanks for the help (truly, so far The Samba has saved me big time)

Ben

[Cusser]

SEE below in CAPITALS

[ashman40]

[Zundfolge1432]

If that’s a stock 1600 I’d shitcan that junk carb and 009 to go back stock. The car will run better and get better fuel mileage.

[polypetalous]

[ashman40]

Within the fuel pump, all the liquid fuel remains in the upper half. Above the diaphragm. The lower part of the pump is the moving parts driven by the pump pushrod in the case. These parts are greased well to keep them lubricated. There should never be fuel in the lower part of the mechanical pump. Pull the pump off its stand and smell if there is fuel in the lower half. Normally do this after the pump has been operating as fresh fuel will be there if the diaphragm is broken//torn.

If there is any fuel on the outside of the pump it would also indicate it is leaking as long as it wasn't dripping down from the carb or fuel hoses.
_________________
AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[polypetalous]

Well, I am starting to feel like a real, genuine VW owner...

Got the brakes done.
Got the fuel tank cleaned and back in, new hoses etc.

This was to be the weekend of the start-up then oil change then first drive.
Friday night got engine prepped for first start:
Cleaned/gap spark plugs
Adjusted valves
Set Timing (static)
Charged Battery

Saturday, big moment... turn key...nothing.
Nada, no starter engagement at all (no click etc)

Tried another battery (charged), same no-nothin'
Lights on dash work, fan switch, tail lights etc. so car is getting power.

Engine turns real easy (by hand)
Tried tapping on starter... no go
Tried to jump the "red wire" under backseat from starter to 12v + on battery... nothing, no click, no turn etc.

What say you... starter done and need replacing?

Going to put some leads directly on starter from a battery and see if anything changes. But open to any other trouble shooting advise anyone's got.

So close...yet so far...

Thanks
Ben

[ashman40]

[CWAVE]

Congratulations on starting the project.

I just finished my Super Beetle restoration, literally today. Looks like you have a good base there to work with! Have fun with it.

Thomas
_________________
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My 1973 Sports Bug Body off Restoration:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=666556

[polypetalous]

[ashman40]

Found a pic from the gallery showing the wiring at the starter solenoid:

You can see the stud where the battery cable connects to at the left. The red wire with the yellow ring terminal is not stock.
To the right of the battery cable is the red #50 wire connected to the #50 spade on the solenoid.

Notice the extra unused male terminal on the bottom of the solenoid... this terminal is not there on all starters. When it is, it is NOT USED. Make sure you have not accidentally connected the #50 to the wrong terminal. If you test the lower terminal, you should probably find it is connected to the right stud which powers the motor while the starter is spinning. This terminal was common on early solenoids and used to power the ignition coil directly from a battery 12v source while the engine was cranking. Giving the coil a boost of power to start the engine.
_________________
AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[ashman40]