Engine decisions for 60 beetle

Kthomas

After blasting and priming 2 other earlier shrouds as well as another set of tins I found this doghouse shroud so decided to go with it which required me to round up associated tins several of which I had to repair . I think I have it all now as soon as a new Hoover bit arrives.

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Kthomas

I got my new cylinders and associated top-end parts back on. Feels good to be making progress.

Kthomas

Installed new captive nut in upper case mount. I used sleeve retainer. I hope it never strips because it might be a pain to remove. I guess I could always drill it out

Kthomas

How’s that for a cheap engine stand ? 😀

Busstom

Where did you score the press-in nut? I need two of 'em.

Thanks.

Edit: I found some at Kaddie Shack, CSP, and Heritage Parts Centre (of course, I will use the only source I found stateside).

Kthomas

https://wolfgangint.com/case-components/2883-engine-case-nut-insert-111199102.html

The shipping was twice the price of the nut but maybe if you needed something else it would make more sense.

Busstom

Cool thanks. Funny, Wolfgang wants 3 bucks, Kaddie Shack wants 9.
https://www.shop.kaddieshack.com/Engine-Case-Upper-Threaded-Insert-Captive-Nut-111101135.htm

I've always had good service from Joe and the crew at Wolfgang, so I'll go through them. I hear you on shipping though...it would seem something so small could go into an envelope and mail for a fraction of the price.

Cheers!

Kthomas

Fenders and rear hood are done ( more or less ) 😀

Chickensoup

Kthomas

Yes
They had very little play

Kthomas

Also, the threaded portion didn’t go in far. It was weird. No one ever spoke up about it so I just decided to leave them in.

Chickensoup

Hi I think no one spoke up because they didnt have the nerve to mention that you can use a guide like that. It will be detsroid probably after break in. The valve stem needs the full support of the guide and the rocker arm and adjuster puts side load on the valve so it will contact that area. It will also probably hold excessive oil in the grooves which isnt good either.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. Do you have a machine shop near by? They would easily press the old ones out and slip in news ones. Which you can have reamed or you can do it the old fashion way and polish the valve stems till they fit assuming you use new valves.
_________________
-'85 c10 5.3 LS, 222 cam, long tubes, x pipe, 3 inch spin tech's
-'05 B5.5 TDI Wagon 17in sport rims ;EGR + BSM + ASV Delete, Stage-2 Tune, straight pipe
'65 Tourist Delivery Build
'66 RIP
'69 RIP
Hosea 4:6 "My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge"

Kthomas · Last edited by Kthomas on Fri Jun 11, 2021 5:23 pm; edited 1 time in total

If it smokes bad ill buy some new heads or redo the guides and valves. I’m going to run it before I put the body back on . 8/10 of the guide was not like that and there was no play. I’m not sure what they were thinking or doing but it was a running engine and everything else was within tolerances.
And, Yes, I basically agree with you.😀

From what I can deduce this could be a old tuners way of cooling the exhaust valve but putting an oil retention groove in ?

Kthomas

Engine tins all painted

Kthomas · Last edited by Kthomas on Fri Jun 11, 2021 3:30 pm; edited 1 time in total

Doghouse oil cooler adapter has gap but no built in raised parts. Gap isn’t much. I guess I need to measure for 10 to 25 percent crush and shim accordingly ?
New cooler looks to have raised edges around bolt holes.

Kthomas

New throw out bearing and 12 volt starter bush installed

Kthomas

Gas pedal springs
I think I must be ordering the wrong part . Neither of these look correct. Do they ?
The one the the right is one that I cut and bent and it will keep pedal sort of upright but not enough tension

Kthomas

Well I finally got the correct gas pedal spring 6 dollars ebay

Kthomas

I’ve got the engine back together enough to run. It’s running but I’m having carburetor issues. The engine ( 1641 ) isn’t getting enough fuel. I can get it started and keep it running if I just about completely cover the intake. Just leaving a sliver of space for air. I’ve got the bypass screw at 2 1/2 and theVolume control screw at 4 as per volkbits instructions. I’ve tried various settings. I’m not sure what I’m missing.
This has a 205k distributor. I’m not sure about the pump but is getting gas to the carb. The carb is a used brosol h30/31 that I cleaned and rebuilt .

Chickensoup

check intake for exposed nipples and vacuum leaks. How do you know its a fuel issue? Also, if its not getting a good supply of fuel, it wont run long.
_________________
-'85 c10 5.3 LS, 222 cam, long tubes, x pipe, 3 inch spin tech's
-'05 B5.5 TDI Wagon 17in sport rims ;EGR + BSM + ASV Delete, Stage-2 Tune, straight pipe
'65 Tourist Delivery Build
'66 RIP
'69 RIP
Hosea 4:6 "My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge"


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Engine decisions for 60 beetle
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