1962 Golde metal sunroof Ghia project

[TRS63]

Good to see some news here

Antoine
_________________
Antoine
My 62 ragtop daily driver:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=728873
My 914 restoration&lightweight project :
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9698432#9698432
Resurrecting a 60 ghia : https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=713906
My 52 Standard Zwitter :
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=10086685#10086685

[Braukuche]

Going through my stash of Porsche engine stuff and rounded up everything I need to build a C spec engine for the Golde car, which was rated at 75 HP. I will use big bore pistons and cylinders so should eek out a little more HP.
Will send modified tins off to the powder coated, 62 industrial case, 912 heads, B non counter weighted crank, lifters, flywheel, to the machinist.
Tomorrow I’ll sort through the chrome and get that going.
My experience restoring cars is that I always think most of the time investment is over once I complete the bodywork and paint, but in reality I always end up getting delayed waiting on machine work or parts, so I figure I’d get ahead of the game by sending out everything now.

_________________
Go Reds! Smash state!

Retirement is here!
1956 Ghia
1959 SO-23 Westfalia
1960 double cab
1960 Baja Bug
1963 stretched double cab
1962 Golde sunroof Ghia
1963 356 B coupe
1963 Notchback
1967 21 window less rusty now

[tri356]

Are you planning on running any oil filter with that engine? I had a lot of problems with engine temps when I first installed a 356 engine in my 62, until I went with a remote filter.

Mike

[Braukuche]

[Braukuche]

Finished up the lower rust damage repair with the front lower fender piece and moved on to the upper fender headlight area that had horrible brazed patch repair.
I cut the patch out to reveal that someone had simply beat the roached original metal down and brasses the patch over it. Of course the rusty metal underneath would have eventually eaten away at the new metal and bubbled up the bodywork in a short time, so it all had to go.
The headlight surround was solid so I opted not to go down that hole, but the top of the bucket was roached so I have to patch that as well.
Next up is the other side, pretty much the same crap but with the addition of some rear outer fender well brazed patches that will have to go.

_________________
Go Reds! Smash state!

Retirement is here!
1956 Ghia
1959 SO-23 Westfalia
1960 double cab
1960 Baja Bug
1963 stretched double cab
1962 Golde sunroof Ghia
1963 356 B coupe
1963 Notchback
1967 21 window less rusty now

[Ian Godfrey]

Braukuche, I don't know if you have seen these, but they are a very neat, good quality filter take off.
https://precisionmatters.biz/full-flow-oil-filter-pressure-relief.php
I like the melding of the Ghia and early Porsche
good luck

[Braukuche]

[TRS63]

356 engine in a sunroof ghia.. Can hardly get better! 😍

Antoine
_________________
Antoine
My 62 ragtop daily driver:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=728873
My 914 restoration&lightweight project :
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9698432#9698432
Resurrecting a 60 ghia : https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=713906
My 52 Standard Zwitter :
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=10086685#10086685

[tri356]

It's a little late, but here's the write-up of what we spoke about Dan:

1) I had a heck of time bringing down oil temps with my engine - a slightly hopped up (1720cc) 356SC engine. Not knowing any better, I even went down the route of installing a later ghia deck lid, with the rain tray removed. That didn’t help. It wasn’t until I installed a remote oil filter that temps came down. Nowadays, I have no overheating issues whatsoever. I used this assembly:

https://precisionmatters.biz/remote-oil-adapter-pressure-relief.php

It allows you to pipe the oil away, and install a remote oil filter:

I just don't see how that other full flow oil filter, the one that attaches directly to that rear cover, would fit.

2) Muffler
Depending on what you are willing to accept, your biggest source of frustration could be fitting a muffler to that engine. If you are ok with an extractor type of exhaust, 4 pipes merging into 1, with a muffler hanging off to the side, then this is not such a big problem. If you want more of a stock look, then some of your choices are:

a) taking 356 exhaust flanges and welding them to a VW muffler

b) cutting 356 mufflers to make them fit within the space you have. The current reproduction of the 356A muffler is just about the correct width to fit within the ghia's body. There is just a slight cut that needs to be done to the right-side ghia body support bracket - the one that goes from the ghia apron to the underside of the engine surround metal. See the pic below to get an idea of what I mean. Even with that, the muffler pipes attaching to the #2 and #4 exhaust ports still need to be cut, to bring the muffler 'in' towards the engine.

An original 356A muffler will not work - it's way too wide by several inches.

~ 30 inches width or less is needed to make it work (tucked in within the body, hanging lower of course the muffler can be wider). Converting inches to mm, that'd be 762. So, the Vintage Speed muffler should work. That would leave the exhaust flange change, and fore-aft location.



3) throttle linkage:
Take a look at the back of that fan shroud you have and you’ll see a bell crank at the bottom.

At the top of the fan shroud you’ll have a cross shaft like this one:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=2344537

A rod connects the two. Regardless, your accelerator cable will need to be mated to the end of a similar rod (if you have an extra carburetor downlink, , so that this rod can attach to the bell crank, and move things accordingly. I’ll look through my stash of parts - I still may have this piece lying around, as these days, I went with the Synclink system:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=2169636

4) I don’t have much to say about the tin. That recent 912 powered ghia on BAT has a picture of a cardboard template being used, which I think is a good idea. I think the side tins have to be cut by a lot because the engine opening is just barely wide enough. I remember spending a lot of time with tin snips. You wind up losing the carburetor pre-heat openings in that rear tray tin, because there just isn’t enough room.

5) Flywheel. With your original tranny, the 180 mm flywheel would be the way to go. You'll need to match the throw-out bearing. Also, I believe the flywheel will need to be machined to a particular depth. But for that point, someone like Jay at Jay's Precision Machine would know for certain.

[Braukuche]

Mike thanks for the information and pictures, most helpful.
I sent everything off to the machinist a couple weeks ago. Decided to go with B normal heads as I’m using a B normal crank and Zeniths.
I’ve also been chipping away at the rust repair. I finished up all the welding to the body today, leaving me the pans to deal with. I ordered the ones out of Thailand which are still in the box. My plan is to pull the body off and take it to my friends shop where I can do the body work and paint. I’ll deal with the pan here at home. When they are both done I’ll drop the body on the pan and do the final assembly at the house.

I’ll spare you all the gross pictures of the trash I had to cut out, but suffice to say it was mostly brasses in scrap metal directly over rotted original metal. The guy of course didn’t deal with the rotted inner structure at all, so I had to cut all that out first, weld in patches or repair panels, then deal with the outer metal. Since the aftermarket stuff is garbage and doesn’t conform to the original lines at all, I saved what I could and cut and spliced to keep the original contours. It was a real PITA to be honest, especially the rear lower fender…
When the car was brought to Texas they had the dealer install AC, which has since disappeared. Since I’m planning on returning it to its German delivery specs other than the engine and brakes, I decided to weld up the holes in the trunk and will remove the hoses and pipes.

_________________
Go Reds! Smash state!

Retirement is here!
1956 Ghia
1959 SO-23 Westfalia
1960 double cab
1960 Baja Bug
1963 stretched double cab
1962 Golde sunroof Ghia
1963 356 B coupe
1963 Notchback
1967 21 window less rusty now

[djway3474]

Doesn't clean metal make you feel so good.
I'm using dual Zeniths on a T1 motor made to look old school. Motor is fairly large so it has been an adventure. Waiting for new butterflys and main shaft and some air correction jets. Machined out the venturies today. It sure looks cool and the real deal will be even better.

[Braukuche]

[Rome]

356 engine into your Ghia: tri356's experience and tips will certainly be valuable for you.

In the first few years of my starting to build my own VW engines, I bought the book "Secrets of the Inner Circle" by the now-legendary late Harry Pellow, who was meticulous as to documenting details on the parts and assembly of Porsche 356 engines which are covered in that book. My intent was to learn about his techniques to possibly apply on and improve my engine building on VWs, not to buy and build up a 356 engine. I remember a section on fitting a 356 engine into a VW, written by Jack Magrane. If you have this book, Jack's chapter starts on p. 270 thru p. 282. He explains details on modifications needed on the 356 engine to make it fit into the VW. I knew Jack personally, since he was based in my adjacent state Connecticut and was a regular at VW meets in the late '80's and early to mid '90's when I was getting active and already had my own '64 Ghia. He had a street-driven pale yellow '64 or '65 Ghia Coupe into which he fitted an SCCA class "D-Production" either 356 or 912 engine. He had a small side business named "Vorsche".

[djway3474]

[Braukuche]

Had the Ghia hauled to the shop and spent two days separating body from pan and tearing the pan down. The transmission is original but I want install a later with taller gearing so it’s going. I’m sending the spindles out to be rebuilt and the beams will get all new components. I’ve got the new pans and just need to some measuring and cutting so I can weld them in.

_________________
Go Reds! Smash state!

Retirement is here!
1956 Ghia
1959 SO-23 Westfalia
1960 double cab
1960 Baja Bug
1963 stretched double cab
1962 Golde sunroof Ghia
1963 356 B coupe
1963 Notchback
1967 21 window less rusty now

[Trylon]

[TRS63]

That is going to be such a nice ghia in your hands

Antoine
_________________
Antoine
My 62 ragtop daily driver:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=728873
My 914 restoration&lightweight project :
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9698432#9698432
Resurrecting a 60 ghia : https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=713906
My 52 Standard Zwitter :
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=10086685#10086685

[Braukuche]

[TRS63]

[Braukuche]

Spent a crazy amount of hours cleaning up the pan, prepping the replacement pans, cutting out and chiseling off spot welds for the seat rails, patching up the crusty rails, wire wheeling the pan and tunnel etc etc, but it’s almost done. Got the top side painted and in a couple days will flip it and do the underside.

_________________
Go Reds! Smash state!

Retirement is here!
1956 Ghia
1959 SO-23 Westfalia
1960 double cab
1960 Baja Bug
1963 stretched double cab
1962 Golde sunroof Ghia
1963 356 B coupe
1963 Notchback
1967 21 window less rusty now