Key lock and ignition replacement on a 1971 Super Beetle....

[Devilman]

I'm having a hard time trying to replace my ignition key in my 71 Super Beetle. It's driving me mad!!!! Can anyone help me? I have the parts...I just need the know how...

[slodown]

the best advice for ya is buy a haynes or chilton manual because you have to take the horn off, the steering wheel, the signal switch assembly, stick a pin in the housing hole. The pictures helped alot for me. You will need a 24mm socket with extension to get the steering wheel off.

[george4888]

The Bentley manual does a better job of telling you how to remove it. Basically, remove the horn button, then the big nut in the center of the steeting wheel, with the 24mm socket, pull the steeting wheel off, remove the turnsignal switch and wiper switch ( maybe yours has one on the steeting column if someone changed things) with those switches out of the way, you will see a plate with some screws on it, holding in the ignition/starter/key switch assembly. With the key in the ignition, in the off position, with the metal plate removed, you can pull the assembly out of the steering column. You will have to cut the wires that go to the back of the starter/ignition switch on the 71, as there is no plug in ternimal on that year. I cut the wires about two inches from where they go up into the bottom of the dash, but the best way would be to open your trunk and follow each wire, removing them, one at a time, and making notes on paper, the color of the wire and where it went. On the 71, the wires go all over the back side of the dash, The fast,,easy way is to cut and splice them into the new wires on the new ignition switch. With the ignition/key switch assembly out, if not replacing the key part of the switch, then you only need to remove the little, bitty, set screw, on the side of the switch assembly and the electrical part of the assemble ( the part that usually wears out) will almost fall out, with the wires attached. If you have to also replace or want to replace the key part, then, you press on the spring metal on the side of the housing, to get the key assembly out of the ignition/ key housing. Putting it back together , you reverse the process. Do not grease the new electrical ignition switch, unless you use diaelectric grease, which will not harm the parts. Be sure the key mechanism inside the housing is "turned" just right, as the end of the key mechanism fits inside the end of the electrical ignition switch only one way. Observe the parts and you will see what I mean. LIke male and female, with only one way to slide together. When lined up correctly, the parts mate easy. Do not force the new part into the housting. It should fit easy and slide into the housing okay. I rarely see the key mechanism wear out, but replace lots of the electrical / ignition parts of the assembly. With the 71, it takes some patience and more time, because of the use of the wires, not push on terminals. IN 72 they made it all more easy. ---George4888

[CSM Engineer]

Hello everyone...I am nearing completion on a '71 Super project and as part of a complete re-wire replaced the electrical part of the ignition switch. The lock cylinder seems to operate fine...key enters smoothly, cylinder turns freely, but not sloppy, column lock retracts properly and snaps back smartly when released. However, while trouble-shooting all the new electrical, I discovered that when the electrical switch is installed, the key will not turn far enough to engage the starter terminal. The switch is (electrically) fine, as when I disassemble the switch and use a screwdriver to turn the post, it closes the start circuit with no problem.

I have searched high and low for descriptions of similar problems and have found nothing previously posted. Has anyone experienced a similar issue? I'm not sure if I received an out-of-spec aftermarket electrical switch, have mis-matched components between the switch and the lock assembly (all descriptions I have found for '71 switches and locks seem consistent with the parts I have), or possibly have a worn lock assembly, though by all accounts if the key goes in and turns, the lock should be fine.

Any direction would be helpful...this is one of the few obstacles left to getting this project back on the street.

Thanks!

[bp03]

I had that issue. For me, the lock cylinder was well worn, not allowing the key to have enough travel to engage the switch. A replacement cylinder remedied the issue.

To test: hook attach the lock cylinder to the switch when neither are in their housing. Turn key, if it works you most likely have a worn lock cylinder.

[Ltcjc754]

I too had an issue on my '75 SB. In doing a rewiring I swapped out the original ignition barrel and bought an after market ignition switch/key/electrical plug, but ran into your problem of electrical would come on, but not engage the starter. Upon further inspection my original "barrel" had a center pin and the "cam" was different. The aftermarket assembly would fit into the housing, but would not engage the starter. I've added some pics to better help explain. Long story short, I reinstalled the original key barrel with the "pin" and it started right up. Hope the pics help.

[AutoMechanic]

It’s a 27mm in mine to remove the steering wheel. I can’t get the electrical part of the switch out it seems wires are holding it. But I suspect it needs replacement as it has the symptoms I’m not changing the cylinder because I don’t want two different keys.

[ashman40]

[CSM Engineer]

Hello,

Wanted to close the loop on this and let you know how this was resolved. After much tinkering (disassembling the electrical portion of the switch, bending contacts this way and that, shims, bubble gum, etc...), extremely close inspection revealed the tip of the key cylinder that engages the switch was twisted ever so slightly out of true. It took a bright light and a magnifying lens to see the distortion. Clamping the cylinder in a bench vise and snugging an adjustable wrench down on the flat allowed me to gently twist the stem back true. Thought for certain the damn thing would snap.

My suspicion is that the PO tried to re-engage the starter contact without first turning the ignition off and forced the key against the switch.

Anyway, she's fixed and running now...thanks for all the insight and advice!

[ashman40]

Good job troubleshooting!

I don't think I would have guessed it was possible. SO I would never look for it. That cast portion of the lock assembly seems like it would never bend. Gotta add that to the bag'o tricks.

In some ways, if you find that the key is not turning the electrical portion of the switch far enough, bending the end of the lock may just be the simplest workaround, even if the lock was straight to begin with.
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AshMan40
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}