Rust, here I come!

[VicVan]

First, one question: what is this caulking applied at the bottom corner of the panel? I picked some of it to discover some more rust that had cralwed from underneath.

Second, I found there was some water in the bottom of this cavity (small panel between kitchen wall and rear wheel):

Not sure where it came from. The window seals are in good shape. The area seems to be factory treated with a yellow/green wax. so luckily there's minimal rust in one corner. Why on Earth didn't they treat the kitchen panel the same way?
Also found there's a drain hole for that area. Rubber plug is right here:

My advice: When you find yourself parked in an incline, nose up, unplug these for a few minutes.

Now, let's get real...

Blasting with glass, then Ospho. It did feel good to finally apply some rust treatment.

The glass blasting media made an absolute mess. Spent more time cleaning then blasting. Make sure you seal off the area perfectly. I expect to randomly find glass beads in the van for the next 5 to 10 years.

Final question, for the next step: On a couple of areas (2 to 3 inches wide each), the horizontal flange of the panel (the one forming the seam) doesn't exist anymore. This is what it looks like:

Do I need to worry about this? I'm thinking epoxy putty, so when I tackle the seam from the outside, the new seam sealant will have some backing. Is this a bad idea?
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'90 Little Blue Truck, 2WD auto, FAS GenV 2.0 NA (AVH)

[4Gears4Tires]

No, not really. I would apply seam sealer (there on the inside) and move on.
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'87 Syncro
Ferric Oxyhydroxide Superleggera Edition

[Steve M.]

You might like this You Tube video on how to make a dustless nozzle by putting one of those hairy vacuum nozzles on a sandblasting gun.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=ohiBl52zPIs

Probably too late for you!
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This free advice is worth exactly what you paid for it.

There are seven days in a week. Someday is not one of them.

[Steve M.]

[ghianowbug]

sorry about the mess maybe i was not emphatic enough about the media going everywhere. Try using the plastic sheets and tape them down to the surrounding area. use some vapour barrier type plastic and you can still see through . stick your gun in the enclosure and shoot. another way is use a cardboard box and cut out one side this was you enclose the area you are shooting. I used a dollar store storage plastic storage box where i cut a small hole in the top to stick the gun into. never did try the vacuum attachment idea but it looks like it would work and keep the media in a small area. dont forget to vacum up the media that went in the cavity through the holes if doing mor balsting seal them up with tape to prevent more media from going into the cavity. the side panel has some cutouts for vents etc make sure that the vents are sealed around the edges before closing up the panel. could they be a source of water . as to the seam sealer in the corner would pick that out if water got under it and there is rust . would not be a fan of the bedliner approach for the the same reason rather cover the reapair and converted rust with wax like product that can be reapplied if needed . if any water gets in again and finds a hole in the bedliner layer then can rust again.water or just moisture can come from the cavity at one point and the bedliner keeps the water in instead of letting the area dry.

[VicVan]

I agree with the bedliner, I'd rather not seal the area completely. Especially somewhere that I never can see nor inspect.

I plan on using glazing compound or RTV gasket maker to seal the hook-up boxes to the side of the body.
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'90 Little Blue Truck, 2WD auto, FAS GenV 2.0 NA (AVH)

[ghianowbug]

would be a proponent of silicone (rtv)as it would remain flexible . glazing compound if iam thinking of the right product could get stiff and crack whereas a silicone would be flexible in hot and cold environment s. also a tube of silicone at home depot is 6 dollarsvs rtv permatex at 10$ for a small amount 80 vs 300 ml. by the way the hole in top of the plastic storage box solution for media blasting is only nozzle size. and you can buy as small a box as you want just keep in mind it will fill up fast

[VicVan]

Thanks for the tip!
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'90 Little Blue Truck, 2WD auto, FAS GenV 2.0 NA (AVH)

[VicVan]

I've applied fiberglass to cover the holes, over Ospho-treated rust and metal:

Waiting for resin to cure before primer and sealer.

Now, what do I do with the outside?

I'm afraid that if I go in there too hard I'll just make more holes. Two options I believe:
1/ Remove existing seam sealer and replace it
2/ Leave it be and Fluid film twice a year

What do you think?
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'90 Little Blue Truck, 2WD auto, FAS GenV 2.0 NA (AVH)

[VanMan2009]

My opinion, but definitely option 1. #2 is only really something you’d do until you could do it “right”, and you’ve come this far already you might as well finish it.

Pick out the seam sealer you can and if it’s reLly stuck in there you could use baking soda in your blaster to get out the old sealer. Baking soda won’t do anything to the metal itself so it’s pretty safe to use. Tape off each side of the seam to protect the good paint and go for it. You’ll have some putting probably. Maybe a hole. Do your rust treatment. Then epoxy primer. Then filler for the putting, or epoxy depending on your preference. Prime, seam sealer, paint.

I think that’s right, but if any paint/body guys have a different opinion let us know, I’m certainly no expert

[VicVan]

Thanks. I've come this far, I might as well do it right indeed...
One thing, what do you call "putting"?
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'90 Little Blue Truck, 2WD auto, FAS GenV 2.0 NA (AVH)

[wcdennis]

Before you reinstall the cabinets spray that side of your van with a hose to check for leaks around the hookup boxes. From my experience that can be a source of the water that causes the rust you are dealing with

[VicVan]

That's the plan. From the maarks on the inside of the panel, there was quite a lot of water coming through the hook-up boxes. I also suspect the window seal above, there are some water marks under the rear window. Sigh...
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'90 Little Blue Truck, 2WD auto, FAS GenV 2.0 NA (AVH)

[nemobuscaptain]

The culprit is the bull*^*% insulation Westfailya stuck in there on the late multivans and campers. I have a 91 Multivan that lived in the salty rustbelt and the only significant rust is, you guessed it, right there under the window. The seal is fine. I have no hookups. All those excuses are crap.

If seen plenty of late Vanagon busses with the same damage. And rust belt earlier models that also lived here in the rust belt, and that area is pristine.

You CANT stop water vapor inside the bus. It's why your window fogs up and it's doing he same thing on the inside of the metal. It runs down and eventually sits in that fiberglass. Pretty soon that fiberglass insulation is soggy as a sponge. It is stays that way for a long time.

Just to make sure, I'd leave the panel off for a while and check for further leaks w a water hose and in the rain (sometimes rain seems to find holes somehow that the hose cannot) after you finish the repair.

I BET YOU A SAMBADOLLAR IT IS THE DAMN INSULATION. Keep that crap out of your bus.

RE: media blasting

I got here too late to say you are creating more work than you are fixing. Media blasting just makes a damn mess always.

This is my favorite tool for almost any rust. Handy little critter, but safety equipment must be worn. Long sleeves are a great idea also. Sometimes it throws wire.

Next is a flap wheel but you have to be careful because it takes good with bad and quickly.

That is a really tiny area of rust and it's hidden so I guess I might just put Ospho on it and Rust Bullet or similiar on it. I wouldnt bother with fiberglass or putty. Fiberglass doesn't last long if it's soak with water anyway.

Not in a million years would I put bedliner on it. I don't like anything that hides the rust.

If I did more than Ospho and Rust Bullet, I'd just cut some patch panels and weld. You're in there already. I doesn't have to be pretty even. Hell, even going to a muffler shop or something would provide all the welding skill (admitted I have almost none) that you need. Im a grinder not a welder but you wouldn't have to worry about grinding there.

Maybe if you ospho that seem inside and out it will hold a while. If not, wire wheel it and get a repair pane. This time you'd have to do a better job of welding though on the outside of the bus.

BTW Im pretty sure the "Concrete Etch" product at every Home Depot and similar place is the same as Ospho. Not sure if Cali and others behind the Iron Curtain get the same formula we get in the free states though.
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[nemobuscaptain]

[Steve M.]

[nemobuscaptain]

[VicVan]

Nemo, Thanks for the tips. My conclusions after doing this work are the same as yours. Media blasting was not worth it. I did fiberglass, I wanted to cover these holes. Not sure why, but it's done. Sprayed a couple of coats of primer on top, should be fine for a while.

I've also tossed the old insulation. I'm putting in Extruded Polystyrene (XPS). Pics soon.
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'90 Little Blue Truck, 2WD auto, FAS GenV 2.0 NA (AVH)

[Abscate]

[wcdennis]

I realize there are competing theories on the source of rust behind the Westy cabinets, but I'm always surprised when people totally dismiss the hook up boxes as a possible source of water intrusion. we are talking about 3 actual holes in the side of the van covered by old, possibly cracked, plastic boxes and sealed by (probably original) cracked foam seals. The first time I had my cabinets out I witnessed serious amounts of rain water leaking around the boxes. This water runs down the wall and pools up in that channel where everyone with a camper finds serious rust.