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Engine Rubber Seal replacement
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nytagawa
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 01, 2021 10:07 am    Post subject: Engine Rubber Seal replacement Reply with quote

Can I replace the Engine Seal Rubber without removing engine? I am hoping that I can slide the left and right rubber in and somehow push the one on the edge of apron. The previous owner installed the seal wrong. I am having overheating issue. I can see the floor through the gap of the seal.
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Can I get this and cut into 3 pieces and slide in?
https://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C24%2D111%2D813%2D705%2DA
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(OE GENUINE GERMAN MADE - ENGINE COMPARTMENT SEAL BEETLE 46-66 / GHIA 56-66 / BUS 50-71 $14.99)

Thank you very much for your help.
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Who.Me?
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 01, 2021 10:31 am    Post subject: Re: Engine Rubber Seal replacement Reply with quote

Yes. Just take the valance panel off, remove the old seal and feed the new seal in to the channel on the valance panel.

Hold the valance panel by the rear bumper and feed each end of the new seal in to the channels along the edge of the engine. I push it in as far as it will go, then reach under and pull it the rest of the way.

Make sure that the channel isn't crimped/dinked so it doesn't prevent the seal sliding. If the old seal pulls out OK it is probably not crimped. If you have to yank on it to get it out, run a screwdriver along each channel to widen it wherever it's crimped.

Some silicone spray helps it slide too.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 01, 2021 10:51 am    Post subject: Re: Engine Rubber Seal replacement Reply with quote

What he said above, perfect answer.

One more thing - Yes, you can cut it into 3 pieces if you want.
It's easier to install the sides separately if the engine is already installed.

I'm wondering - Why does your oil pressure switch have 2 wires to it?
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thestoneroses
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 01, 2021 11:25 am    Post subject: Re: Engine Rubber Seal replacement Reply with quote

EverettB wrote:
What he said above, perfect answer.

I'm wondering - Why does your oil pressure switch have 2 wires to it?


has a 'savemybug' dipstick sender installed at a guess
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 01, 2021 11:28 am    Post subject: Re: Engine Rubber Seal replacement Reply with quote

Check that something has not been sucked into the fan. Make sure engine is off when you reach around to the front of the fan shroud. Seen someone that had a piece of 8x11" lined paper in the fan that must have been sucked thru one the vents!

Do feel free to post lots more images of your engine. That way all of us VW nutters can try to spot any obvious problems.

Hopefully you have the correct size cooling fan....
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nytagawa
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 01, 2021 6:27 pm    Post subject: Re: Engine Rubber Seal replacement Reply with quote

Thank you very much for your help. Good to hear that I should be able to replace seal without taking down the engine.

When it is hot, it has vapor lock.
I have some video around my engine.
https://www.facebook.com/1190989834/videos/10221791731481093/
Many people pointed that I should take that fuel filter out. I am aware of that. I will move it out of that spot as soon as I solve this overheating issue.

About 2 wires from the oil pressure switch, I have "Oil Temperature Warning Dipstick". When the oil gets too hot (235F) it will make the oil Warning lamp to turn on. It was $35+shipping. I got it after summer. So I haven't had a chance to see the warning yet. More info here:
http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Oil-Temperature-Dipstick-235F-Warning-p/hot-oil-dipstick-t1.htm
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 01, 2021 7:20 pm    Post subject: Re: Engine Rubber Seal replacement Reply with quote

That open tube on your drivers side carb is a vacuum port, and should be plugged. With it open it is causing a lean mixture and making your #3&4 cylinders detonate and run hot. You also have some open holes in your shroud that you should put some plugs in. The vacuum port is your most important problem right now, fix that if nothing else before you drive anywhere. A full tune up/inspection probably wouldn't hurt either.
Nice looking bus, Mango/Seagull is one of the best color combos IMO.
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campingbox
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 02, 2021 6:42 am    Post subject: Re: Engine Rubber Seal replacement Reply with quote

That seal can easily be installed in one piece with the engine installed.

Installing a set of thermostat flaps in the fan shroud would help cool things better.
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Lind
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 02, 2021 7:25 am    Post subject: Re: Engine Rubber Seal replacement Reply with quote

I install all of my engine compartment seals as one piece. I have found that some of them are a bit long, so I lay it out on top first, and see if a little needs cut off the ends.
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nytagawa
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 02, 2021 7:51 am    Post subject: Re: Engine Rubber Seal replacement Reply with quote

What repair manual do you recommend?

Someone took out the thermostat and flaps before I got this bus. I thought they only helps when it is cold. What do the thermostat and flaps do in hot situation?

Thank you very much.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 02, 2021 9:28 am    Post subject: Re: Engine Rubber Seal replacement Reply with quote

As much as some people look down their nose at it, John Muir's "How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive" is a good general VW book. Your engine looks like an AH case? (I can't quite see in the video) so the Bentley manual for your bus isn't going to help you much with your motor. Not knowing what parts are in your engine (cam, pistons, valve size, CR) makes tuning a bit of a challenge. You might have better luck over on the Performance/Engines/Transmissions forum here on The Samba.

nytagawa wrote:


Someone took out the thermostat and flaps before I got this bus. I thought they only helps when it is cold. What do the thermostat and flaps do in hot situation?

Thank you very much.


Yes, you should probably have flaps and a thermostat, but it's probably not the cause of your overheating issue. The flaps stay closed until the engine begins to reach operating temp, your engine seems to have no trouble getting there (and beyond). You also may have an aftermarket 36hp fan shroud with no vanes inside, they are far more important for getting cooling air to the right places. Poke around, ask questions, get to know your motor, and plug that vacuum port.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 02, 2021 11:20 am    Post subject: Re: Engine Rubber Seal replacement Reply with quote

nytagawa wrote:
What repair manual do you recommend?

Someone took out the thermostat and flaps before I got this bus. I thought they only helps when it is cold. What do the thermostat and flaps do in hot situation?

Thank you very much.

The thermostat opens at ~ 140F. When it is cooler than 140F out, the thermostat helps the engine warm up, reducing engine wear.
When the engine has warmed up, It also helps the engine cool better by directly air flow appropriately.
Read up on them.

People leave them out to save a few minutes of assembly Laughing

ah video
1. the engine seal does not look horrible
2. - check deflection on fan belt... looks sloppy. That can make it run hot
3. is that a small lower pulley? what is the diameter of crank pulley. A small one ('power pulley') this would make it run hotter.
4. yes! plug off the vacuum port on that carb!
5. it's fine to have a fuel filter in the engine compartment. Before moving it, ask yourself if you would rather change it where it is, or above your head.

6. does the fuel line touch the hot intake?

Post pics for feedback on your engine.
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nytagawa
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 02, 2021 3:43 pm    Post subject: Re: Engine Rubber Seal replacement Reply with quote

Thank you very much.
What kind of fan shroud I should look for? Please give me some links of the examples.

I will order the book.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 02, 2021 4:40 pm    Post subject: Re: Engine Rubber Seal replacement Reply with quote

Definitely a smaller crankshaft pulley. Better to get the dog house pulley instead that is 7" measured on the outside diameter. Smaller pulley means less fan RPM, which in turn means less cooling air being pumped over the cooling surfaces of the engine under the tins.

Best shrouds are the stock ones. The aftermarket fan shrouds all too often are missing the directional fins inside to evenly cool both sides of the engine.

The "Idiot's Manual" by John Muir is a good one, but has a lot of mistakes and hard to understand sections.

Best manual is the original VW dealer transporter workshop manual that was for so long not allowed to anyone except the VW dealer mechanics. Now reprinted for the public:

https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/wolfsburg_new/accessories/books.cfm

Since you are running a later engine will suggest the 1970-79 beetle "Volkswagen Official Service Manual". See link above.

Both manuals can be had for much less $$$, if you look often and hard for a used copy.

Is the fan shroud you have now a dog house or non-dog house cooler type??
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nytagawa
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 02, 2021 7:32 pm    Post subject: Re: Engine Rubber Seal replacement Reply with quote

I don't know if you can tell the size of the pully from this photo. But if you can, can you tell this is smaller than the normal size?
This is a part of my video, (around 55 sec) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ul3rC9FXwEI
Thank you.

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Does this crank pully look smaller?


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 02, 2021 7:52 pm    Post subject: Re: Engine Rubber Seal replacement Reply with quote

nytagawa wrote:
I don't know if you can tell the size of the pully from this photo. But if you can, can you tell this is smaller than the normal size?


Definitely looks that way if you have a dog house cooler. Toss a tape measure across it to make sure. Even with non-dog house cooler it is a good investment to have the DH pulley.

You really do not want fuel line, and especially the fuel filter rubbing against hard surfaces or worst edges. That can wear a hole in the fuel parts and start a VW BBQ.

If you have (and should) the fuel tap, you can shut off fuel at the tank, to the filter or engine when removing either.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 02, 2021 7:56 pm    Post subject: Re: Engine Rubber Seal replacement Reply with quote

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Lots more need to know info in the owners manuals!
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nytagawa
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 02, 2021 8:22 pm    Post subject: Re: Engine Rubber Seal replacement Reply with quote

Is this for Bus? I didn't know Bus has that (Reserve)!!! 1961 bus doesn't have fuel gauge. It make sense to have that.

I think the owner before me did cheap works, cut every possible corner.

What parts do I need to restore this function?
I imagine that I have to take the tank out.

Thank you so much for teaching me new things.
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nytagawa
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 07, 2021 8:17 am    Post subject: Re: Engine Rubber Seal replacement Reply with quote

You are amazing. Just looking at my photos you could tell the pully was smaller than normal. I finally got to check the size of the pully. You are right, it was smaller than 7 inches! The difference was just about 1/4" and you could still see that from my photos. You all are amazing. Thank you for pointing out!

My charging warning light stays on during idling. Changing the crank pully to bigger, normal size one, do you think the alternator will charge in idling?

1/4" make that much difference?

Thank you.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 07, 2021 9:15 am    Post subject: Re: Engine Rubber Seal replacement Reply with quote

With the bigger crankshaft pulley you should get rid of the charging light being on at idle, at worse you might need to up the idle just a tiny bit, instead of a lot. Having that light on is not good because having the light on is making you used to having it on. Which in turn means you are less likely to notice that light on when you need to notice it, and save yourself from needing a sudden engine rebuild.

VW went to bigger and bigger pulleys over the years only after lots of engine testing that costed them a lot of $$$.

Again, are you running a dog house cooling system?? That in itself requires more cooling air...
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