Timing

[Ksmit258]

What should timing be.
Not even sure what distributor I have so here is a picture.
It is a modified 1600 with dual Weber idf 40. not sure what size it is now.

Thanks

Still getting gas out of exhaust..was going to set timing.
Trying everything...re built carbs. Pressure checked need valve even after new , new fuel pump.
Adjusted valves to .006.
Not sure what could be left

[Ksmit258]

[Mal evolent]

the fuel pressure regulator is set to ____?
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73 Beetle Baja, Ghia front brakes, Type 3 rear brakes, 2220 ( 94 X 80 ), Weber Progressive, Bosch SVDA, '97 Mustang seats

Baja Bugs for Volkswagen Virgins: Index

[Ksmit258]

3.5

[Wulfthang]

Unburnt fuel coming out of the exhaust can be caused by several different things. First off: How much is coming out?

Improper combustion can be caused by incorrect timing or point gap or bad ignition components, bad valve gap, incorrect valve timing, a worn out cam, low compression, dirty air cleaner or even bad fuel. There's a few other things that can cause it but that's the biggest ones. I doin't know about your carbs but most of them have an accelerator pump, Many of them have adjustments for the amount of fuel that is pumped in.

[Ksmit258]

Hard to quantify how much, but its not just a drop. It runs out

[Ksmit258]

Hard to quantify how much, but its not just a drop. It runs out

[Wulfthang]

Well, that looks nasty! What's the oil look like? Did you check the timing? Can you narrow it down to one specific cylinder or side?

[dustymojave]

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2165103.jpg
You distributor is a common 009. It has a "Billet" cover added with "fins" to make it look "cool".

And the distributor is mounted 180° out of rotation. The rotor is in the right location for TDC for cylinder #1. The condenser should be opposite from the rotor at TDC/#1.

But the misfire you have suggest that the plug wires are out of order. With the rotor where it is not, the plug wire for #1 should be on the cap right where that rotor is now at 4:00. The rotor turns clockwise as the engine runs, looking at the distributor from above. Then the #4 wire should be at 7:00. #3 at 10:00, and #2 @ 1:00.

The cylinders are numbered with #1 at the right front corner, #2 at the right rear. #3 at the left front, #4 at the left rear.

Static timing with engine off should be about 7 degrees. That can be checked using a simple light bulb with wires and alligator clips, hook one wire to the coil negative terminal (where the wire to the distributor connects) and the other to ground. Set the crank at 7° BTDC. Turn the ignition to "ON" (NOT running") and rotate the distributor gently until the light comes on. Tighten the distributor clamp. Once the engine is running, you can hook up a timing light and the MAX advance should be less than 30°.

But 1st, Rotate that distributor body 180°. Then set the static timing. Then check your plug wires AGAIN!
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Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.

[oprn]

A couple of comments. Are you sure it’s raw gas? It could be oil or water too.

If gas for sure (strong raw gas door, flashes readily when you touch a match to the rag) then the engine should be running rough and hard to start from flooding. In addition to the suggestions above Check the float level, watching down the carb barrels for excessive gas flow might tell you something too. There should be black smoke from the exhaust when running.

If it’s oil you have a serious internal engine problem that will readily show up with a compression test. Watch for lots of blue smoke when running.

I suspect though that it may just be water vapour condensing on a cold exhaust on a cool day. This is the best case scenario and could be perfectly normal. If this is the problem you may be seeing white smoke from the exhaust if it’s cold out. You didn’t give us any clue as to where you live, what the weather is like or how long the engine was run before you picked up on this issue. In this case it may or may not have a hydrocarbon door, will not burn readily and will dry off and stop once the engine and exhaust are up to operating temperature.
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We had the stone age, the bronze age, the industrial age and now we are in the age of mass deception and mind control for corporate profit. (The mass media age)

[dustymojave]

Having seen this exact issue on a race car a month ago, and it was that the knucklehead driver had fiddled with it and switched the plug wires and putting them right fixed it, I am SURE that the problem is the engine trying to fire out of order because the plug wires are wrong.

It's NOT too rich.

It's not condensation.
_________________
Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.

[oprn]

Ya, pretty hard to tell from where I am! Hold it up to the phone maybe...

Mind you... looking at it again, it looks like a mix of oil and water...
_________________
We had the stone age, the bronze age, the industrial age and now we are in the age of mass deception and mind control for corporate profit. (The mass media age)