72 oil bath filter with 73 PDSIT Solex Possible?

[NASkeet]

[NASkeet]

[Zeta]

[busdaddy]

[Zeta]

Wonderful. Thanks. Found it. After scraping with small flathead screwdriver and vacuuming the area "between the breather box and shroud" (repeating commits to memory) found the same ID as on the fan shroud...

I checked the owner's manual that came with the bus...and it appears to be original

Therefore, along the life of the bus from an AW engine (1800cc) it changed to CB (1700cc). No issues with me, but makes me wonder exactly what it is that I have and the wear. Also, understand the internals may be from different years, and will not know until I open the engine, which I DO NOT WANT to do. Honestly, just out of my league at the moment.

As I get my list of things to do and how to best organize them for the resurrection I noticed the following:

and wondered the many holes on the front engine wall behind the fire wall, specifically this opening

In addition, I was reading Muir's steps for vehicle assessment prior to purchase (too late for me as I bought mine back in 1998) but before dropping engine/transmission want to document as much as possible to use as baseline and came across the following statement:

Question: If I lift only one rear tire and run the engine and gears, would the other tire making contact with ground, stay put and not move? I would think both tires would move synchronously, no?

AND now this has me worried.....

I took my distributor out to show Bill for the rebuild, but after installing it, I cannot start the bus. I only removed the clamp to prevent getting it off of timing, but when I crank the engine, nothing happens except a PUFF..sound.
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1974 Westy
1800 cc Type4 Engine
Single Weber Carb

[busdaddy]

The AW and CB share the same internals, aside from the bore, but nobody knows what's been done internally if it was ever rebuilt, at least a CB is another bus engine so the compression should be low enough.
The gap by the bellhousing was for the EGR system I think, a small tab of sheet metal and a rivet will close that up.

If you jack it up and leave one wheel on the ground the free wheel will spin at double speed, unless it has a limited slip differential (highly unlikely), that's some scary stuff you propose, if it slips off or something seizes up internally it'll shoot off through the garage wall or worse.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

[Zeta]

[busdaddy]

[Zeta]

Will do tomorrow. Maybe I disconnected something while removing/installing the distributor. Before the distributor removal I was able to start the engine and to idle without interruptions.

Will review books on how to ID coil wiring to complete suggested test.

Thanks!
Z
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1974 Westy
1800 cc Type4 Engine
Single Weber Carb

[Zeta]

Got it...

1 = Neg
15 = Pos

Simply connect some type of light/device to pos and neg and crank engine.

Without a light bulb could I use a voltemeter and if so then set unit to 12 V and crank engine same as if using light bulb?

Thanks,
Z
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1974 Westy
1800 cc Type4 Engine
Single Weber Carb

[Zeta]

Good morning,

OK, checked the coil by using an multimeter, as I do not have the lightbulb setup, and I have power going to it when key is in the first position (ON). I did not turn the engine to attempt starting it while testing w/ the multimeter device. The research (little) I did last night regarding the use of a multimeter to test a running coil was a failure. So since I do not if this is a safe practice I rather not venture as I don't want to cause inadvertent harm to engine/vehicle, equipment, self or others.
I know enough to know what I don't know.

However, I tried starting the engine (not testing the coil, but checking today's status) and the results were a quick two, "PUFF - PUFF", after the usual starter sound. I stopped.

I believe when I returned the distributor I messed the timing. While I thought it was "all good" to undo the distributor clamp for a pull - take picture - return, maybe I moved the flywheel. I know I played with trying to visually find the timing marks, etc., prior to retrieval, maybe I messed it up.

I will follow the "time your type 4 engine" rabbit hole and will do so gladly as I need to master it, but before I do...

Could someone point to where I could confirm if this behavior (chchchchchc, puff, chch, puff ...those were sounds...) could be timing related?

While I hope for replies, will go look for timing marks after I read -

http://type2.com/library/electrip/timemark.htm


Also, I read this comment on youtube after watching a timing video...

Would this idea work if I have issues finding TDC timing mark or to confirm the ones I may find?

Thanks,
Z
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1974 Westy
1800 cc Type4 Engine
Single Weber Carb

[busdaddy]

When you put the distributor back in did you turn the rotor until you felt the drive drop in to it's slot?

A digital meter won't work well for the points test, too much lag on the readout. If you have an electronic points replacement unit then remove the coil wire from the cap and hold it 1/4" away from something metal (insulated pliers, or gloves) and watch for a spark while cranking. If you left the clamp on the distributor and removed the nut holding it to the case the timing can't change, if it ran before it'll run now, as long as the drive dog is properly engaged in it's slot.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

[Zeta]

"...as long as the drive dog is properly engaged in it's slot." - Well, I can attest I ensured nothing of the sort for I did not know to account for 'driving the dog of a distributor.' OK, I'm going to look into the distributor's dog.

Thanks!

PS - time spent learning on Timing and found the TDC mark on my fan but was in the middle of confirming with the stick method to ensure TDC is on the compression stage, will come back to this after I find the dog
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1974 Westy
1800 cc Type4 Engine
Single Weber Carb

[Zeta]

Oh this is great. There is an active discussion on dist./dogs. How opportune!

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=753588
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1974 Westy
1800 cc Type4 Engine
Single Weber Carb

[busdaddy]

Well there you go, lots of good pics there. Notice how the slot is offset so the teeth on the distributor can only fit in one way.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

[Zeta]

OK

First I tried and didn’t feel the engagement of the drive dog and slot. I hesitated for a while. Read some more. Thought some more.

Pondered, IF the drive dog is engaged in the slot, THEN as I spin the rotor it should not move, period. Therefore, if it moves, then it is not in the slot.

And as suggested (thank you) it was not in the slot. I pushed down, not too hard, but kept some pressure onto the distributor body with one hand, and with the rotor off, pushed and rotated the drive until a click was heard with side effects of wide smile and goosebumps.

With anticipation and full of hope, went to try and first thing that came to mind was....”thank you Busdaddy” as the engine started as before!

It is not so much that my bus is coming back, but rather that I am finally getting to know my bus.

Now let’s get the timing gun out and learn how to use it and see where I am at.

Thanks,
Z
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1974 Westy
1800 cc Type4 Engine
Single Weber Carb

[busdaddy]

Good work!, nothing beats a simple fix, and learning something in the process (without breaking stuff) is a nice bonus.
Here's a dirty cut and paste from another topic that deals with the timing stuff, hopefully some of it makes sense to you:

[Zeta]

Thank you for the information.

At the end of the day I took the inductive timing light (Craftsman 21027) to refresh my memory of its use and setup. This unit as well as my multimeter do not have tach/dwell features.

At rough and cold idle it was at 18 BTDC, but I didn’t know I needed to rev up the engine to see how far the marks would travel until they stop migrating. Now that I know how to check the timing, I will do it again tomorrow and check the timing mark’s travel and adjust by releasing, this time, the 10mm long bolt slightly to allow for adjustment with the left hand per shared notes.

Today I, with confidence, based on Ratwell and Dolan’s articles, found and confirmed the timing marks on the fan are indeed marked at TDC and no other marks are available.

I have a Bosch SVDA distributor paired to a Weber 32/36 DFAV, for now. Hope to replace setup w/ PDSIT and new matched distributor from Bill, but that comes later. First I need/want to learn what I have before making changes, as making changes without knowing your position is a recipe for wandering endlessly and possible frustration and worst...giving up, which I did before.

I know I have severe leaks. Would that effect the timing or is that taken into account when adjusting the carburetor which is next? From what I have read regarding carburetor adjustments, leaks play a negative role during tuning and fine tuning, but do not remember reading about affecting the timing.

The good thing about ignorance is that there is a remedy.

Thanks for the guidance.
Sincerely,
Z
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1974 Westy
1800 cc Type4 Engine
Single Weber Carb

[busdaddy]

Make sure you do the timing with the hoses disconnected, and since you have a Weber there's no where to connect the retard hose on the carb so leave that port open after you are done. The full mechanical advance is what matters, but do watch the mark when it's idling and you reconnect the advance hose, some Webers make alot of vacuum at idle and the timing advances when you connect the hose.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

[Zeta]

OK

First I tried and didn’t feel the engagement of the drive dog and slot. I hesitated for a while. Read some more. Thought some more.

Pondered, IF the drive dog is engaged in the slot, THEN as I spin the rotor it should not move, period. Therefore, if it moves, then it is not in the slot.

And as suggested (thank you) it was not in the slot. I pushed down, not too hard, but kept some pressure onto the distributor body with one hand, and with the rotor off, pushed and rotated the drive until a click was heard with side effects of wide smile and goosebumps.

With anticipation and full of hope, went to try and first thing that came to mind was....”thank you Busdaddy” as the engine started as before!

It is not so much that my bus is coming back, but rather that I am finally getting to know my bus.

Now let’s get the timing gun out and learn how to use it and see where I am at.

Thanks,
Z
_________________
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1974 Westy
1800 cc Type4 Engine
Single Weber Carb