Is line boring this case even an option?

[Gonzaga13]

Newbie here looking to glean some wisdom from the veterans.

I helped a buddy install a new engine in his bus, in return he said I could have the old engine. The bus was a recent purchase and all he knew was that the engine had been recently rebuilt and had a pretty major oil leak. Before removing the engine, which started and ran well, we verified that the engine had a pretty major oil leak at the rear main seal.

A few things I noticed as I was tearing down the engine on the stand. Brand new oil cooler. The pushrod tubes were almost new-looking. Several of the case bolts were still silver. Barely worn newish clutch.

When I crack open the case It was obvious that there was a major issue with the front (closest to the transmission) main bearing. There has been so much endplay that the flywheel actually machined a groove in the case (see pictures).

All other bearings seem OK. Valvetrain looks good, rod bearings tight. As far as I can tell the case is in good shape. I'll know more once I clean it and do a proper inspection but I want to find out from you guys if there is even enough metal left to Line bore and buy oversized main bearings?

If I could line bore, put some oversize bearings in and get 20K miles out of it I would be stoke. I'd love to keep this project under $400.

So...Here are my questions:

1. Is there enough metal left to line bore?
2. If so, how do I tell what bearings to buy?
3. Is this something a local machine shop can handle (Santa Barbara, Ca.) or do I need to take this to a VW specialist?
4. Are those case savers in the stud holes?
5. What am I missing (assuming I only want to put her back together and run it for a year or two. local miles only)?

Thanks to everybody that responses in advance.

[evanfrucht]

That looks pounded pretty bad. I think there was something else going on but really not sure.

It might be able to be line bored, it really depends as it needs to be measured. A local machine shop could do it.

Santa Barbara isn't too far, if you are able to come down to the LA area I know a good shop in Hawthorn, CA called European motorworks. They also ship all over and build engines. They specialize in Type 4s but also know Type 1s very well. Not only do they do great work, they are also cheaper than Rimco or Brothers. I would NOT use Rimco for various reasons I wont get into.

You might find a shop in Santa Barbara but I would try to find one who specializes in old VW's or atleast knows them very well. Call around
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[esde]

Was there a dowel locating that bearing? The first thing I thought was that it looks like the bearing has been spinning in the case.
No doubt Gex would fix it, but I think it looks pretty dismal.
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modok wrote:
Bent cranks are silent but gather no moss. I mean, ah, something like that.

[modok]

Just from eyeballing it...pretty sure....it's past what is NORMALLy considerd repairable.
If the case is in excellent shape otherwise it still might be useful for one thing or another.
Some people would say that's highly unlikely, and it is, but it can happen.

At this extreme level of looseness it would certainly be leaking a lot of oil, making weird noises, feeling vibrations, the crank visibly loose in the engine, ect..... but sometimes people just kept feeding it more oil, and kept driving, until the crank nearly falls out of the engine, and this is what happens.
so it "could" have "only" 60,000 miles on it, but probably not. probably not.

[GARRICK.CLARK]

A crank case inspection needs to include all areas of the case.
E.G.
1 Look for cracks
2 Corrosion
3 Cam bores
4 Stripped threads
5 Sprung centre main saddle etc
I've had people bring cases with fresh align bore jobs only for me to tell them that the case is scrap. It takes a lot of time to determine if a case is good enough to be worked on.
I'm considering not using old cases.
I also see people spending big on cranks, rods etc and using 3rd align bore cases.
It's like putting...
The Queen's foot into a tramps sock.

[FreeBug]

Was that 2nd drainage hole added? How bad had this thing been leaking? I think that if you wanted to save that, you'd have to come up with some sort of "magic". Not impossible, but not easy.

[Alstrup]

[Brian_e]

I had a similar case, and it is now an experiment 1835cc, going strong with about 5000 miles on it now in 2 different buses, and a bug now.

Mine ended up with 3 different OD main bearings, some JBweld, and a few other sins. It was an experiment, I do my own machining, and I wanted to see if it would work. It was all extra parts out of the shed.

If you are hoping for something you can depend on, or last a long time, find a different case. That one obviously had a very rough life.

I would guess a set of .080 bearings might clean it up, but most people line boring cases won't take the time to make sure they are perfect, especially at that size.

Mine has a .080" #1, .060 #2, and .040" #3&4. Great oil pressure, no leaks, and makes really good power.

Brian
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[raydog]

I vote for tossing it. That's pretty hammered.
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[Ohio Tom]

That thrust is super pounded.
I don't think a +2 thrust will fix it neither.

Time to retire that case...

[Gonzaga13]

Thanks for all the feedback, I appreciate the wisdom.

I am half tempted to tear it down, clean it up, and if the rest of the case is OK, try and align bore it. (assuming I can find a machine shop that will do it).

It is mostly just for fun, cuz I'm bored, a little (lot) stupid, and a glutton for punishment.

Question: What is the largest bearing sold, which I'm guessing will determine how much metal I can remove?

[modok]

2mm over OD and 2mm narrower thrust is usually the largest made.
A few companies made a 2.5 oversize in the past, but you would have to hunt for them. Repco I think made them.
The standard bore is 65mm, and the width 22mm

[oprn]

Years ago Dad and I pulled an engine apart for parts and it had a BRASS #1 main bearing. Obviously hand made. Looked exactly like the real McCoy but solid brass! There was no extra end or axial play either so even though it looked odd it obviously worked! I wonder if it was because of a situation like this?

I think I still have it somewhere... it would be fun to measure it.
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[modok]

That's cool
With the right kind of bearing bronze it should work just fine.

Only thing I can think more hardcore than that..... is you melt the old bearings and cast that a new one.

[Gonzaga13]

So close...

[modok]

Yep, thrust is.....gone
Possibly the calibration of that gradeschooler ruler may be due for re-certification, but it kinda looks like it WAS standard size.

[Gonzaga13]

Hey...I resemble that comment

This is an ISO 1642:001 Certified Measuring Devise

[modok]

Nothing personal, I am contractually obligated by the machinists code to make a wise crack in this situation.

[Onceler]

The pic.’s are very hi def though, nice
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[croSSeduP]

I'd NEVER reuse a case like that. It's not just that it's pounded out, you have to think of the reasons it's pounded that badly. Magnesium is not a sturdy material. If you overheat it too many times it will lose it's original rigidity because it's breaking down molecularly. In my world that case is junk.
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