Replacing Generator Stand Studs/Nuts with BOLTS for Easy Removal

[evanfrucht]

I've come across this here and there but there isn't a dedicated thread for it so I thought I'd start one. I have a specific question I'm looking for opinions on as well

The basic idea is to replace the generator stand studs/nuts with bolts so that in the event your generator happens to fail you do not need to drop the engine or try to mess with pulling the shroud from the car.

There are TWO ways I have seen this approached

First method involves modifying the stand. The front two holes get slotted and only the rear two studs gets replaced with bolts. When doing it this way you would remove the two bolts, loosen the nuts closest to the shroud, then slide out the stand.

Second method is basically the same except skip slotting the stand, remove the studs, and just use four bolts. All four bolts would need to be removed to replace generator.

Which method would you choose and why?

And If you do this mod already, are there any tricks or iterations I have not mentioned that anyone wants to share?
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1967 Bug ( the daily rod )
1964 Fury Wagon ( the pavement shredder )

[Glenn]

Been there, done that.

Steel inserts.

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Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"

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#BlueSquare

[evanfrucht]

[modok]

It's a neat trick but I don't need it. because
1-never had a generator actually fail of it's own fault.
2- most vw's, it is possible to remove the generator in the vehicle without modifying anything, including all the ones I ever owned.

BUT if you have a particular model of vehicle and engine setup that you CAN't, then it might be worth thinking about.
Especially with an alternator.
Theoretically an alternator has far less to go wrong, but from what I see they fail 3x more often, and are more bulky, somehow just more of a PITA overall.

if you buy the time-sert kit, also do the oil pump studs, and the two long case studs by the flywheel cam bearing.

[scrivyscriv]

[scrivyscriv]

[evanfrucht]

[Glenn]

Lifting the shroud is a PITA if the thermostat is still connected.
_________________
Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"

Member #1009

#BlueSquare

[Pruneman99]

You can unbolt the fan in the shroud and pull the generator. Just catch the shims when you pull it. A air ratchet helps as often the bolts are way too tight or stuck.

[evanfrucht]

Ya I guess this is so much easier since you dont have to untorque fan or mess with shroud or removing decklid at all. That decklid really knows how to get in middle of things
_________________
1967 Bug ( the daily rod )
1964 Fury Wagon ( the pavement shredder )

[modok]

[evanfrucht]

Ya, I should put in the original post that this mainly concerns most years of the Bug, since that's really where this becomes an issue.
_________________
1967 Bug ( the daily rod )
1964 Fury Wagon ( the pavement shredder )

[modok]

And intake manifolds! A lot of people want to change the intake manifold and don't realize that it's trapped under the generator.
To change the oil cooler seals the shroud must come off anyway, at least I assumed it did. probably someone will say otherwise. Who knows.
The monkey brain can sometimes gain the power to reach the unreachable bolt with enough motivation (desperation). We are evolved to do it

[evanfrucht]

[evanfrucht]

The question still remains, whether to SLOT or NOT?
_________________
1967 Bug ( the daily rod )
1964 Fury Wagon ( the pavement shredder )

[67rustavenger]

[evanfrucht]

The more specific question I have (probably overthinking it) is whether to slot the stand or simply replace all 4 studs with bolts.

I'm about to do one or the other tmrw and still haven't made up my mind
_________________
1967 Bug ( the daily rod )
1964 Fury Wagon ( the pavement shredder )

[67rustavenger]

How much do you wanna F with the left forward fastener, when you have to with all the ancillaries in place .

Do the time sert install on all the holes.
Use three bolts and one stud (forward left), If it makes you comfortable. < I haven't done that.

quote="evanfrucht"]The more specific question I have (probably overthinking it) is whether to slot the stand or simply replace all 4 studs with bolts.

I'm about to do one or the other tmrw and still haven't made up my mind[/quote]
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GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[Cusser]

1. I gave thought to slotting holes in my generator stand and using bolts back when I rebuilt my 1600cc engine back in 2016-2017.

2. I decided not to do this, as my two VWs have generators are "rebuilt by Bosch" units from several decades ago, and have been reliable. I had previously worn out and replaced generator bearings (which I found a pain to obtain and replace) so on these "rebuilt by Bosch" generators I deliberately run the generator belt a little loose to ease strain on the generator bearings; my belt does not slip, and I do not have overheating issues either.

3. I'm experienced in removing the complete fan shroud from my VWs without pulling the engine, so for me this is another option. If I pull the 1835cc engine on my convertible, I'd "have to" paint the tins black.

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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[anthracitedub]

I’m setting here trying to think of I’ve ever had to unbolt a generator stand for any type repair.