Double-Double's Berrien Buggy Build Thread

[Double-Double]

Hi guys, long time no see, finally getting back into the VW game after a 6 month absence. I sold my class-11 Style in November and still have that air-cooled knowledge in my head and would like to put it to use. Here is my previous build thread. https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=727076

I'm not getting any younger and I would like to start a 60's style dune buggy build. I am looking at the prospect of a long term build with all fresh parts....

My plan is as follows:

Berrien Nostalgia IRS/Ball Joint Chassis with low mount weld on battery tray
Berrien Nostalgia Body in Deep Marine Blue Metal Flake (going with a retro 60's color)
Berrien Fiberglass Floorpan (I will raptor liner this in black)
Strictly Foreign Super Street Freeway Flier IRS Transmission
1835 Engine with new everything (Thick Cylinder Walls)
Rebel Wire Wiring Harness with ATO Fuses
Karmann Ghia Front Suspension with Disc Brakes
Drums in Rear for Parking Brake
Skinnies up front and Fatties in the Rear

Let me know if you have any suggestions, secrets, tips, etc... before I order these parts to get started so I don't mess up. I look forward to taking my time and having a relaxing build.
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“If anyone desires to come after Me, let him deny himself, and take up his cross, and follow Me. For whoever desires to save his life will lose it, but whoever loses his life for My sake will find it.”
—Matthew 16:24–25

[vwracerdave]

Couple thoughts on wheels & tires. You don't want 'skinnies" on the front of a light Dunebuggy with disc brakes, they will just lock up. If your want the 135's or 145's up front I'd keep stock late drums and add larger Type III rear brakes on back. If you really want front disc I'd look at little wider tire maybe 205/60's up front. I have no problems stopping my 1350 Lb. Dunebuggy with all 4 stock 4 lug drum brakes

I'd look at 28" 275/60-15's on rear. Buggies just look so much cooler with a taller & wider rear tire. With the taller 28" rear tires I'd run a 4.37 R&P with .93 4th gear. That'll get you 75 MPH at 3650 RPM's. You don't need to go any faster because the lightweigt buggy will start to wonder and drift with strong winds and big truck side drafts.

You'll wish you had just a little bit more HP with the 1835cc. Build the 92's with a 74 or 76 crank and dual IDF's.
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2017 Street Comp Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble, OK
2010 Sportsman ET Champion - Mid-America Dragway - Arkansas City, KS
1997 Sportsman ET Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble ,OK
Featured in Dec. 2001 HOT VW's Magazine page 63

Watch my racing video's http://www.youtube.com/user/okvwracer/videos

[Double-Double]

Good feedback Dave, I appreciate the helpful comments. I guess I didn’t realize that you can buy the aluminum cases preclearenced for the larger cranks. I am fairly committed to using the thick wall cylinders though because I have a distinct possibility of moving to the south and want all the cooling I can get.

Would a proportioning valve work on the master cylinder to keep from locking up the front brakes?

I think I was leaning towards a 30” rear tire because I like the cartoonish look of a pretty huge rear tire and substantially smaller front.
_________________
“If anyone desires to come after Me, let him deny himself, and take up his cross, and follow Me. For whoever desires to save his life will lose it, but whoever loses his life for My sake will find it.”
—Matthew 16:24–25

[weasel_ugs]

[oprn]

Remember that anytime you change tire height from stock you change the effectiveness of the brakes. Going to littles and bigs will shift the brake bias forward big time. The shorter your wheels and tire profile is the lower the effort required to lock up the tires.

Ideally all 4 tires will lock up at the same moment but this is virtually impossible to achieve in all conditions. The safest way is to have the fronts lock just before the rears. It gives the most predictable handling response. For street driving you do not want the rears to lock first or the rear of the car will try to pass the front making it difficult to keep your car under control.

There are many variables that effect brake balance. Tire compound, weight distribution, suspension stiffness, weight transfer, brake type(drum vs disc), road surface and weather all play a part so getting the perfect balance is not realistic.

I personally do not like the idea of drum fronts and disc rears because of drum brake fade. If you are ever in a situation to need the brake on hard for an extended stop (down a mountain pass for instance) you could find yourself with rear brakes only!

I am also very doubtful about using a proportioning valve on the front to limit front brake pressure. Maybe I don't understand fully how they work but I would be afraid that when you need to brake hard that the brake bias would shift too far to the rear. I am not aware of any factory car that has them in the front brake circuit. It's always in the rear to my knowledge. Correct me if I am wrong on this one.
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We had the stone age, the bronze age, the industrial age and now we are in the age of mass deception and mind control for corporate profit. (The mass media age)

[dustymojave]

[clonebug]

I run fatties in the back and skinnies in the front along with discs on all fours.....I love my disc brakes.
If you try reallllly hard you can get the fronts to chirp but I have to say the pluses outweigh the minuses.

I also feel the best tire is a 275/60-15 for looks and gearing. I can do 70 mph at 3100 rpm and do it all day if needed. I use a 67 transaxle with 4.12 R/P.

I do have lots of hp so the higher gearing doesn't effect me. I did run a stock dual carbed 1600 with those tires and never felt there was an issue as long as I stayed below 65-70 mph. There just wasn't enough poop to push it over 80 mph due to the buggy windshield putting up a lot of wind resistance.

Build it the way you want it.... it will work fine....if it doesn't you have a nice upgrade project for your first winter since buggies are made to be upgraded........I've done upgrades almost every winter since I built it in 2004.
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[Dan the workingstiff]

Welcome back, you do nice detailed work.
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'69 Beetle
'66 FG buggy
My other air-cooled's
'76 IH 1200
'75 IH 1200