The 1600 "grenade", Placing bets

[Chickensoup]

[Chickensoup]

so today i made basically no progress aside from getting the exhaust bolted up and rigging a remove starter button. i was gonna run it today but ran into two issues.

1, it was raining.


2, my wiring isnt right.

so, heres my issue. the smaller positive lead that comes from the better terminal causes my engine not the spark when i have it wired to the B+ terminal on the regulator even tho the diagram tells me thats where it should be.

however, when i hook the positive lead to the positive side of the coil, the engine does produce spark. HOWever, this causes the idle valve and choke element to get nice and toasty. both of which are connected to the positive side of the coil.

so what am i missing? i have the green wire from the dizzy hooked up to the negative side of the coil. i have all 3 generator leads connected to the voltage regulator. i have ground. i have the main positive lead going to the starter.

help would be great. the electrical realm isnt something im profitiant in. i think i spelt that wrong.
_________________
-'85 c10 5.3 LS, 222 cam, long tubes, x pipe, 3 inch spin tech's
-'05 B5.5 TDI Wagon 17in sport rims ;EGR + BSM + ASV Delete, Stage-2 Tune, straight pipe
'65 Tourist Delivery Build
'66 RIP
'69 RIP
Hosea 4:6 "My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge"

[Teeroy]

Forget hooking up gen/reg. Just wire starter to battery and a hot lead to coil positive (still need jumper to idle jet and choke)
_________________
Pres. Rivercity VW Club www.rcvwclub.org
Founder Derr Wheat Panzers (DWP)
ARR #3
www.autosportsnorthwest.org

[Chickensoup]

[Chickensoup]

I picked up the starter today. Works great! Thanks for the suggestion.

As expected, it started right up. But with 4 issues. 1 of which has been solved.

1. It was smoking, but the control ring seated after the second run. I remember one of them being kinda weird sitting in the groove. Engine doesnt smoke at all now thankfully.

2. I have a giant exhaust leak as expected.

So I will be on the look out for a new head. And I really hate the aftermarket muffler so I'm probably just gonna buy a good used merge header and j tubes.

3. Out of all the places it could be leaking oil... its leaking out of the oil filter lip. Wtf? Its tight so maybe I got a faulty seal? Idk.

4. I need to re adjust the rockers. I specs i found for side play are obviously way too large.

Other than that now i just need to fix the above problems, get it tuned properly, not just by feel lol, and make it not look like an incomplete turd

The first video is me starting it for the very first time, the second video is the second ir third time starting it. Sounds way out of tune but at least it runs. Idk even knowing it has oil preassure yet. A sender unit is in the list.

Right now I have a "german" 009, and a h31/30. I've heard it's an ok set up.

Question- which vacume nipples should be plugged? Where can I find a diagram?

Thanks


Link




https://youtube.com/shorts/uLqYb7mbJk4?feature=share
_________________
-'85 c10 5.3 LS, 222 cam, long tubes, x pipe, 3 inch spin tech's
-'05 B5.5 TDI Wagon 17in sport rims ;EGR + BSM + ASV Delete, Stage-2 Tune, straight pipe
'65 Tourist Delivery Build
'66 RIP
'69 RIP
Hosea 4:6 "My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge"

[Chickensoup]

So I got the engine tuned, timed, and idling. I'm kinda surprised at how quick the throttle response is.

So now that I know it's a good runner, I'm taking it back down to a long block so I can replace the one head, adjust the rocker assemblies and valves, change the oil, paint the tins, and figure out the correct length oil lines. I figured out where I want the filter to go. I'm putting it in the coil location and then relocating the coil to the other side

I also have a set of elephant adjusters I was gonna use for the 1385 but figured I'd just buy another set. These ones are cb adjusters to replace the current ones.

Whoever gets this engine is gonna be set lol.
_________________
-'85 c10 5.3 LS, 222 cam, long tubes, x pipe, 3 inch spin tech's
-'05 B5.5 TDI Wagon 17in sport rims ;EGR + BSM + ASV Delete, Stage-2 Tune, straight pipe
'65 Tourist Delivery Build
'66 RIP
'69 RIP
Hosea 4:6 "My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge"

[Teeroy]

All the nipples should be plugged if you are running the 009. Why not step stud or thread insert the head? Way easier than changing the head. On that stud there is sometimes room to put a nut behind the flange and a longer stud
_________________
Pres. Rivercity VW Club www.rcvwclub.org
Founder Derr Wheat Panzers (DWP)
ARR #3
www.autosportsnorthwest.org

[Chickensoup]

[Chickensoup]

Well what do you know. I was actually able to grind a bolt down and stuff it behind the exhaust flange. Thanks for the idea Teeroy!

Today, I found a stud, modified the nut, and made the exhaust purdy.

I straightened the lip out. Heres what I'd looked like before.

Removed the exchangers because I dont need or want them.

I thought it was an aftermarket muffler but it turns out it's actually german.

Btw, who makes stock size j tubes that aren't trash?

Thanks
_________________
-'85 c10 5.3 LS, 222 cam, long tubes, x pipe, 3 inch spin tech's
-'05 B5.5 TDI Wagon 17in sport rims ;EGR + BSM + ASV Delete, Stage-2 Tune, straight pipe
'65 Tourist Delivery Build
'66 RIP
'69 RIP
Hosea 4:6 "My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge"

[Chickensoup]

Got some more tons prepped and painted. Bolted down the exhaust. Started assembly.

_________________
-'85 c10 5.3 LS, 222 cam, long tubes, x pipe, 3 inch spin tech's
-'05 B5.5 TDI Wagon 17in sport rims ;EGR + BSM + ASV Delete, Stage-2 Tune, straight pipe
'65 Tourist Delivery Build
'66 RIP
'69 RIP
Hosea 4:6 "My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge"

[mark tucker]

just because it says germany dont mean it's og....just that it might of come from germany...befor or after manufacture...or not. lotsa sneeky places that have things stamped or claim 1 thing but in reality it may be another....but your probably good to go with that one.

[Chickensoup]

Original or not. It fits and fits well. Which is the good part
_________________
-'85 c10 5.3 LS, 222 cam, long tubes, x pipe, 3 inch spin tech's
-'05 B5.5 TDI Wagon 17in sport rims ;EGR + BSM + ASV Delete, Stage-2 Tune, straight pipe
'65 Tourist Delivery Build
'66 RIP
'69 RIP
Hosea 4:6 "My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge"

[Rome]

You DO have a wavy lockwasher under each of the muffler flange nuts, don't you?

[Chickensoup]

[Chickensoup]

Wow. This makes 0 cents. Engine only wants to back fire out of the carb. I got it to run once on some dumb ass combination 180 degrees out. And it ran like crap that way.

Firing order is correct.

Timing is currently back to how I had it.

I've replaced the coil, condenser, rotor, cap. And still no change. Sa.e thing.

I even static timed the thing like 5 times making sure I wasnt crazy

I also checked valve lash and that hasnt changed.

Fuel delivery is still good.

This thing started up on a dime last time I had it running which was like 4 days ago.

All I've done mechanically sense then was fix my vacume leaks and my exhaust leak.

This is just embarrassing

_________________
-'85 c10 5.3 LS, 222 cam, long tubes, x pipe, 3 inch spin tech's
-'05 B5.5 TDI Wagon 17in sport rims ;EGR + BSM + ASV Delete, Stage-2 Tune, straight pipe
'65 Tourist Delivery Build
'66 RIP
'69 RIP
Hosea 4:6 "My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge"

[Chickensoup]

Yup. It was something stupid. Firing order was off. I went by ild pictures. Which makes no sense because I set the order per how vw wants it. And my dizzy isnt backwards. Runs better than before now.
_________________
-'85 c10 5.3 LS, 222 cam, long tubes, x pipe, 3 inch spin tech's
-'05 B5.5 TDI Wagon 17in sport rims ;EGR + BSM + ASV Delete, Stage-2 Tune, straight pipe
'65 Tourist Delivery Build
'66 RIP
'69 RIP
Hosea 4:6 "My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge"

[Rome]

I checked a few photos of the 009 I have on my Ghia's 1600. The distributor body is clocked so that the condenser is pointing to the left; if viewed from above it'd be at the "9:00" position. Your condenser is now at the "6:00" position... but you had it at the "9:00" position several photos up, seen here:

Have you checked where your distrib. drive gear lateral slot is positioned when cylinder #1 is at its TDC position? If you lift up the distrib and view the drive gear, the center slot is milled off-center. The smaller crescent portion needs to be pointing rearward like here (Danwvw gallery). Install the distrib so that the tang at the driveshaft fully engages into the slot. Rotate the distrib. body so the rotor points to the small notch on the edge of the distrib. body. Fully push the distrib. down. Snap on the cap so that the #1 plug cable is in the terminal above that notch. But you probably know all this.

[mark tucker]

it dont matter where the condensor is aimed at as long as its timed right with the right firing order...the dist dont know witch is #1 nor does the cap. thats up 2u to get right. it's when you have the vac canaster on there that you really need to get the gears right or somethen may not fit... even when rotating the wires... on some...but normaly you can. as for the ex wavy washers...I like them and use the brass nuts .Ive never had any issue with them I also use the copper gadgets.

[Rome]

I agree, Mark. I should've mentioned with my observation of the distrib. body that the body itself appeared to be 1/4 turn CCW from previously but the cap and wire orientation remained unchanged. What soup can do easily is to simply reindex his plug wires 1/4 CCW in the cap: Pull up the wire going to #1 and put in the #4 wire. Go around the cap CCW similarly per the firing order.

[Chickensoup]

Thanks for refreshing my memory Rome. When I installed the dizzy I didnt really mind which way it was facing so I stuck it in so that the numbers were facing the front of the engine. I think the confusion here was that the old photo you posted, i think I hadent timed it yet. Thanks for the help tho.


So I've got another "issue". I re shimmed the rockers which went well, but these epehant feet are needing ALOT of shimming. I've got 3 shims per side on there and I think each are 40 thousands or 1mm. Or 3mm in my case. And I still can get any lash.

I've got a stock cam, lifters, push rods, rockers. Should it take this much shimming? Yes, the adjusters are loosened all the way.

On the positive side, it looks like CB pre soaked the adjusters which is nice.

Is it normal to have to be forced to clearance the rocker ends even in a stock application for the elephant feet?

Thanks

_________________
-'85 c10 5.3 LS, 222 cam, long tubes, x pipe, 3 inch spin tech's
-'05 B5.5 TDI Wagon 17in sport rims ;EGR + BSM + ASV Delete, Stage-2 Tune, straight pipe
'65 Tourist Delivery Build
'66 RIP
'69 RIP
Hosea 4:6 "My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge"