1985 Westy with GoWesty 2.2 new engine - won't start

[scotthoman]

in need of ideas:

I've been following this list of things to check from GoWesty: https://www.gowesty.com/tech-article-details.php?id=85

I have a new GoWesty 2.2 built on a 1.9 core in my 1985 Westy. I installed it myself and I got it running and drove it probably 60 miles then had an electrical issue which killed the battery. I had it towed home where it sat for 5 months. I was defeated and busy with work. The city started ticketing for street sweeping again so I need to get it all done and finish the break in of the engine. I walked over and it started right up after sitting for 5 months. I drove it to a new spot down the street and it hasn't started for the last two weeks. I've been trying things every day. (this leads me to believe that the fuel has an issue, what was in the lines was good and in the tank, not so good)

I have since drained 6 gallons of gas thinking maybe there was some water in it because no gas cap for 5 months. I added 1 bottle of heat and a few gallons of new gas. New fuel filter, new air filter, new temp2 plug, (has new aftermarket temp2 sensor during build) New tune up kit: plugs, wires, cap, rotor. I checked the driver side for spark and fuel spray. The spray pattern seemed uneven but both sprayed. One seemed stronger. I don't know how much liquid remained in the tank that didn't get drained but the flow rate was pretty slow. My guess is maybe 2 gallons or something.

O2 sensor is connected to green center conductor, not the gnd shield. I set the timing and then had the timing done professionally at a shop before it was parked. I have a light to verify but can't if it isn't running. I haven't tested for fuel pressure yet because I don't have the pressure meter. Spark looks nice and bright. I have swapped the new NGK plugs from GoWesty from the build with another set from GoWesty. I replaced all of the vacuum lines.
The issue I found that I think was draining the batter was the right side injector relay (driver side of engine bay black box). It was pulsing continuously with the key in the on position. I changed it and that stopped.

It engine turns over, It almost starts. Sometimes it does start for a few revolutions then dies. It seems like it's very close to running. If i remove the plugs and let the cylinders dry out for hours or a day, the van starts up then dies after a few seconds. It has no power. If I floor it the engine doesn't really increase in RPMs then dies. I still think there might be too much water in the fuel. I unfortunately didn't drain it all of the way because I ran out of containers.

electrical concerns:
My other ideas to check are that the positive battery cable has too much resistance so power flow is reduced.
In the fuse box I found a heavy red wire with a melted plastic connector indicating high resistance in the red wire.

constriction:
The cat and muffler are from a used 2.1 so maybe are constricting (It ran great for those first 60 miles and they both came off of a running 2.1 Vanagon)

Fuel issues:
Aftermarket fuel pump which was in good working condition is somehow not delivering enough pressure.
Fuel pressure regulator is not delivering enough pressure to the injectors (I bought it new in 2011 and it was working fine on my last engine)

What do you think I should do next?

[Ahwahnee]

Are you using the original style fuel filter (white cube ahead of the fuel pump)?

One possible cause of what you describe is a clogged fuel filter.

If there is water in the gas it will separate out into a distinct layer which can be seen if the removed gas is put into a clear container.

[scotthoman]

I upgraded to the 2.1 fuel filter located after the pump a couple of years ago. I installed a new filter as described and in all of the containers of extracted fuel I see no separation of fuel and water layers. It appears to be just fuel.

I'm not so sure that it would visibly separate until it hit some saturation threshold. To my understanding it will bind chemically, invisible to the eye. Products like Heet will counteract that problem allowing the dissolved water to become flammable by binding the water molecule with alcohol. I added only one bottle because they recommend a max of two bottles for a 20 gallon tank. This is a 14 gallon tank that is less than half full.

[scotthoman]

I drained the fuel more completely. The last two gallons were opaque. It seemed to be visibly filled with water. Later is settled out. At worst there was 1/2 gallon of bad fuel with water in it at the bottom of the tank so that go diluted by the new fuel. I added 3 gallons of new fuel, pulled the plugs and injectors and cycled out what was in the lines. Spray pattern seemed fine. Gas smelled not great.

I did an ohm and voltage check at the ECU plug per Bentley. Everything looked in spec which is checking the harness and the sensors together so need to dig deeper there.

Since none of that changed anything I sent it to a local shop. The sheer amount of diagnostic and time I spent finding little to no issues and still have a no start situation is mind boggling. My guess at this point is that it's still a fuel issue but fuel pressure not quality. I pulled the vaccuum hose off of the fuel pressure regulator and it smelled a bit like gas. It was dry. It's 10 years old but not that many miles really. rubber fails. Fuel pressure test was next but I ran out of time and patience.

I'll report back what the mechanic finds out.

[MarkWard]

Its likely the water entered the fuel tank through the expansion tanks in the front fenders. The grommets on top fail. First step is to remove all the contaminated fuel. Not easy to do with the fuel tank installed.
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[Hatterasker]

How's it coming along?

I'm thinking about buying the 2.2 GoWesty, or the 2.3.

Want to make sure it is worth it.

Keep us posted!
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1990 Vanagon Westfalia

[borninabus]