1967 Maxi Taxi timing issues/rpm/mph

[popeye613]

yeah I went and bought a temp gun just to make sure. lol

[oprn]

I am very surprised by that but it is good news for sure!
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We had the stone age, the bronze age, the industrial age and now we are in the age of mass deception and mind control for corporate profit. (The mass media age)

[popeye613]

Wife and I just came back from a 2 hour ride and head temp never went over 230 , block 160 or lower so there is no heating issue.


Rpm never went over 2200 cruising at 60 mph. believe it may be the tach. while shifting it would hit 3,000 then i would shift into next gear.

[EVfun]

[oprn]

I can't think of anything that I have seen or read about specifically made to work on a single port engine. All the carb up grades are for dual port engines.
_________________
We had the stone age, the bronze age, the industrial age and now we are in the age of mass deception and mind control for corporate profit. (The mass media age)

[popeye613]

any recommendation on a 2 barrel carb or whole kit for this single port ?

[popeye613]

I have not had any heating issue's with engine yet. But dam you guys sure have me thinking about it for sure. Some type of ducting will happen.


Thank you both for the heads up !!

[MrGoodtunes]

[oprn]

In the stock VWs with the upright cooling fan the upper engine compartment is sealed off by tins and weather stripping so that NO hot air from the cooling air discharge under the engine or heat from the exhaust system can get to and be recycled by the cooling fan. In a conventional Manx style Buggy this re-circulation does happen some but the engine is open enough that this is not really a big issue. Most of the designers and manufacturers of the more closed in style kit cars did not give this cooling air re-circulation any thought. Your engine compartment would definitely be in that category! Some sort of baffle between upper and lower air and shielding from the hot exhaust system should be done.

The other option, which VW did on the type 3 and 4 cars was to duct the intake for the fan into a cold air stream. In those cars it was louvers on the side of the body. Maybe just a large duct from your fan inlet forward so that it picks up cool air from above the transaxle is all you would need. I personally would still look at some sort of tin shield over that exhaust and muffler though to help reflect the heat down.

I wonder if some of your lack of power is not just due to the engine running too hot?
_________________
We had the stone age, the bronze age, the industrial age and now we are in the age of mass deception and mind control for corporate profit. (The mass media age)

[popeye613]

No gauges for oil or head temps.


"isolation between the upper and lower air flows"

Help out a rookie now you lost me on that one. lol unless your talking about a engine skirt as i call them ?


What about removing the block off plugs for the heater ? would circulate more air around motor.

[oprn]

Ok, right! I see the problem!

No I would not put a turbo under that engine cover, you would be very lucky indeed if you don't already have high engine temperature problems now! There is nothing standing in the way of hot air from the bottom of the engine and exhaust system from re-circulating into the cooling fan. Do you monitor oil or head temps at all?

This is a problem with many kit cars. You need to get some isolation between the upper and lower air flows along the line that VW did in the Beetle and Bus.

I am also thinking that air cleaner is not doing you any favours.
_________________
We had the stone age, the bronze age, the industrial age and now we are in the age of mass deception and mind control for corporate profit. (The mass media age)

[popeye613]

Here is a few pixs i just took. Relocate the coil might be enough room but not sure with hood closed. Swear i hate that header.no matter what i do paint burns off the dang thing.

[/img]

[oprn]

I hear you loud and clear about not wanting to make your car look like a rolling refinery. I too have an aversion to that look and prefer a more subtle approach.

One of the things that strikes me as oddly unnecessary on a mild turbo VW is that everyone seems to start with the N/A equal length header mindset and add from there. This makes for a very bulky system and while it may be of some advantage if one is going for the last possible ounce of boost, there are far simpler and neater ways to get the exhaust to the turbo. For a mild street set up that is all that you need, short and sweet, the closest route possible. Take a look at the factory turbo vehicles' exhaust manifolds. They will tell you the same story.

My vision for a compact system would have the turbo behind the engine, just high enough for the oil to drain back into the sump and either elbow the compressor discharge into the stock carb or go draw through with a single side draught carb on the turbo inlet. An SU, small DCOE, motorcycle carb or even VW's Solex from an early type 3.

It could all be fit in between the rear of the engine and the bumper/engine cage without taking up space under the hood. The space normally taken up by the stock muffler.

Just something to think about...
_________________
We had the stone age, the bronze age, the industrial age and now we are in the age of mass deception and mind control for corporate profit. (The mass media age)

[popeye613]

Fabrication skills: has never been a down fall for me. have welder,torches and ya can fab up anything.lol

Fyi: I have been doing demo derbies for 36 yrs in Ohio so fab work is not new.


Have looked up many turbo setups but I believe they will not fit under my hood. i want to keep the back all stock looking and not cut it all to heck. Plus I do not want the heat to fry my paint job. I have done some searching on the AMR500 chargers but not sure if that will even fit.

Was thinking of fabricating up adaptor for this new holley 2 barrel (350) I bought for a car yrs ago and never used to fit the stock center mount but...

[oprn]

[popeye613]

Motor runs just fine . just looking for lil more HP is all .I figure more fuel/air better the HP but with them signal port heads maybe not.

[oprn]

The answer depends on the reason you want to make a change. If it's drivability issues it may or may not be carb related. Many people including myself have made carb changes only to find the problem was not the carb at all.

If the engine is running well but you just want more power, a 1500 single port has some built in limitations. VW did go from a single carb on the Bug to twin Solex carbs on the type 3 dual port engine for a gain of 6 HP. I would expect a bit less on a singe port, maybe 4 or 5 HP, a noticeable bit but not earth shattering by any means. A combination of carbs, 1.25 ratio rockers, better timing and exhaust system change could net you 10 HP tops but the power gain to dollars spent ratio would be poorish and could about match a stock 1600 dual port.
_________________
We had the stone age, the bronze age, the industrial age and now we are in the age of mass deception and mind control for corporate profit. (The mass media age)

[popeye613]

Guys time for a new carb setup on this stock 1500 single port engine.

I rather just go with 1 single 2 barrel but open to any idea's you folks have.

[popeye613]

[Dale M.]

Tach is not accurate....I run almost 3200 RPM at about 60MPH with 255/60/15's...

Dale
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"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
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All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ...