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equinox Samba Member
Joined: April 23, 2013 Posts: 183 Location: Detroit, MI
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Posted: Mon Apr 26, 2021 9:28 am Post subject: Q: Heat and Power |
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I have a Oct 1976 VW Type 2 Campmobile. I've had it about 8-10 years now. I've don a lot of things over that time (engine, trans, bearings, body etc. and recently glove box and kegerator installed along with cabinets).
I'm finally getting around to a few things I'd like working and checked. Not sure if I should put in one or two threads, but they are as follows:
1. Heater - Just been doing without in the cold months, but like it to work. I think all piping and blower is installed and fuse in the inline, but not working.
2. Electrical - It has cables for battery power, a panel to select between each, outdoor outlet, fridge/freezer installed, power inverter under pull out, and city electrical access on the outside. I recently did continuity check on the battery cables...no issue, but city outside outlet appeared to buzz and show a short, so have not applied electricity to either.
3. I guess a third would be rear window defogger I believe the glass has the grid so can be heated, but need to look more into this.
Any support for any of the above would be greatly appreciated along with photos, schematics, etc. to assist me.
Robb |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50350
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Posted: Mon Apr 26, 2021 10:07 am Post subject: Re: Q: Heat and Power |
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To get good heat you need maximum air flow. Double the volume of airflow through the heater boxes into the cab and you will get three or more times the heat. The original heater booster fan does almost nothing besides take up space in the engine compartment. Check out the Bluemaxx thread for ideas, on the highway at 20°F my van is toasty from the windshield right back to the rear bench seat. I have melted the wiper blades pulling a long steep grade during a snow storm and have to be careful that nothing gets set in front of my added outlet under the rear bench seat because it may well be destroyed.
If all you are doing is taking short drives around the city though, the only way to get good heat is to find a gas or diesel heater. |
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my59 Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2003 Posts: 3793 Location: connecting the dots
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Posted: Mon Apr 26, 2021 11:13 am Post subject: Re: Q: Heat and Power |
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Few years back I took the heating ducts apart as much as can be done without cutting welded bits apart, cleaned the ductwork(and found out where the mice had relocated my seat stuffing to) and sealed seams with metal foil tape before reassembling. Made a huge difference.
You also need to make sure the front fresh air vents seal tightly when closed. _________________ my59: Well son, my grandfather died before I got to drive it, so does that answer your question?
our79: sunroof bus w/camper interior and 2.0 FI
Other:'12 Jetta, '77 Benz 300D, and a 74 MG Midget. |
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alman72 Samba Member
Joined: October 09, 2014 Posts: 2573 Location: MICHIGAN
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Posted: Mon Apr 26, 2021 11:45 am Post subject: Re: Q: Heat and Power |
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the ground on the defrost likes to break. lefthand side, on the hinge. check and see if wire from window spade to body is broken.
nice to see another Mgander on the samba. |
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Abscate Samba Member
Joined: October 05, 2014 Posts: 22668 Location: NYC/Upstate/ROW
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Posted: Mon Apr 26, 2021 12:15 pm Post subject: Re: Q: Heat and Power |
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You need both maximum air flows off heated air, and minimum incursion of cold air. To make a Bus heat work in a real winter _________________ .ssS! |
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sjbartnik Samba Member
Joined: September 01, 2011 Posts: 5998 Location: Brooklyn
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Posted: Mon Apr 26, 2021 4:34 pm Post subject: Re: Q: Heat and Power |
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True, you will be surprised how much of a difference is made by sealing up that leaky fresh air flap up front on the nose.
The electric blower in the engine compartment is meant to boost heater air flow at idle. It's not strictly essential for the heat to work, as it only comes on when the heat lever is turned all the way on. Once the engine is above idle speed then that blower ceases to really do anything as the air flow is overpowered by the engine cooling fan.
The rest is ensuring that all the cables are present and working, that all the heater hoses under the Bus are clear of debris and that everything is adjusted properly and leak-free. _________________ 1965 Volkswagen 1500 Variant S
2000 Kawasaki W650 |
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ToolBox Samba Member
Joined: January 27, 2004 Posts: 3439 Location: Detroit, where they don't jack parts off my ride in the parking lot of the 7-11
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Posted: Tue Apr 27, 2021 9:33 am Post subject: Re: Q: Heat and Power |
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PM me and I could look at it for you if you bring it over to my place in Southfield. |
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NASkeet Samba Member
Joined: April 29, 2006 Posts: 2958 Location: South Benfleet, Essex, UK
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Posted: Tue Apr 27, 2021 11:59 am Post subject: Re: Q: Heat and Power |
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sjbartnik wrote: |
True, you will be surprised how much of a difference is made by sealing up that leaky fresh air flap up front on the nose.
The electric blower in the engine compartment is meant to boost heater air flow at idle. It's not strictly essential for the heat to work, as it only comes on when the heat lever is turned all the way on. Once the engine is above idle speed then that blower ceases to really do anything as the air flow is overpowered by the engine cooling fan.
The rest is ensuring that all the cables are present and working, that all the heater hoses under the Bus are clear of debris and that everything is adjusted properly and leak-free. |
I wish I had known that before I went to all the trouble of retro-fitting one to my 1973 VW 1600 Type 2 in circa 1988/89!
_________________ Regards.
Nigel A. Skeet
Independent tutor (semi-retired) of mathematics, physics, technology & engineering for secondary, tertiary, further & higher education.
Much modified, RHD 1973 VW "1600" Type 2 Westfalia Continental campervan, with the World's only decent, cross-over-arm, SWF pantograph rear-window wiper
Onetime member, plus former Technical Editor & Editor of Transporter Talk magazine
Volkswagen Type 2 Owners' Club (Great Britain)
http://www.vwt2oc.net |
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sjbartnik Samba Member
Joined: September 01, 2011 Posts: 5998 Location: Brooklyn
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Posted: Tue Apr 27, 2021 2:26 pm Post subject: Re: Q: Heat and Power |
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Yeah it was only used on the Type 4 powered Buses because the primary source of fresh air for the heater (the engine cooling fan), being crankshaft-mounted on the Type 4, spins more slowly at idle than the belt-driven Type 1 fan. _________________ 1965 Volkswagen 1500 Variant S
2000 Kawasaki W650 |
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danfromsyr Samba Member
Joined: March 01, 2004 Posts: 15144 Location: Syracuse, NY
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Posted: Tue Apr 27, 2021 2:38 pm Post subject: Re: Q: Heat and Power |
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there are even supposed to be little flaps inside the T-IV fan shroud that flip to block the engine driven fan air from back feeding up the auxiliary fan tubes when it spins up to speed.
though those are often excluded at some point an eon ago. _________________
Abscate wrote: |
These are the reasons we have words like “wanker” |
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NASkeet Samba Member
Joined: April 29, 2006 Posts: 2958 Location: South Benfleet, Essex, UK
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Posted: Fri Apr 30, 2021 11:25 am Post subject: Re: Q: Heat and Power |
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sjbartnik wrote: |
Yeah it was only used on the Type 4 powered Buses because the primary source of fresh air for the heater (the engine cooling fan), being crankshaft-mounted on the Type 4, spins more slowly at idle than the belt-driven Type 1 fan. |
I confess that I didn't notice much air-flow coming out of the heating and demisting system at any engine-speed of the VW 1600 Type 1 style air-cooled engine! _________________ Regards.
Nigel A. Skeet
Independent tutor (semi-retired) of mathematics, physics, technology & engineering for secondary, tertiary, further & higher education.
Much modified, RHD 1973 VW "1600" Type 2 Westfalia Continental campervan, with the World's only decent, cross-over-arm, SWF pantograph rear-window wiper
Onetime member, plus former Technical Editor & Editor of Transporter Talk magazine
Volkswagen Type 2 Owners' Club (Great Britain)
http://www.vwt2oc.net |
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