What’s the trick to remove these 6mm Allen bolts?

[Abscate]

60 seconds of heat, 5 minute cool

Repeat 5x.

It’s not the swelling of metal you are after, it’s the cycling and breakup of corrosion
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.ssS!

[RichieS]

[zoti]

[Abscate]

A plumbing propane torch will work fine.

Move the oil sender wire clear of the site, 5 cm away will be fine

For about $100 all in you can get a small oxy propane which will burn most anything off, but propane will work for that.

Warm it up for sixty, cool for 300

Repeat
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[zoti]

[Steve M.]

You need to break the molecular bond of corrosion.
The heat /cool cycle does work, but the problem is it is a steel bolt in an aluminum alloy block.The block also expands, but the steel bolt retains the heat longer-the aluminum cools faster and in doing so it shrinks back to it's original size while the bolt is still expanded.


You can try getting a can of CRC's "Freeze Off" for bolts Product #05002.
it's basically a ice cold spray that you can squirt on the head of the bolt after you heat it to help cool it quickly. The problem is you have to just hit the head of the bolt and not cool off the surrounding block.
Since it is an Allen Head you can try putting the little red spray tube into the allen key recess so that it sprays back in your face- something to be careful about.
This might help the heating/cooling cycle break the bond.

The other thing that breaks the molecular bond is repeated sharp blows of a hammer which you cannot do because of the access.
I'm not talking a large hammer and heavy blows!
A small 10 oz hammer and hitting it like a woodpecker hitting a tree- a fast light tapping.
since you cannot get a small hammer in there either do you have an Impact gun? One of those battery powered ones.
You can put an extension on it and the 6mm socket to fit the bolt and try letting this do it's hammer action.
The bolt head is stripped so I doubt it will get it out, but it is going to provide the hammer action.

Then since the head is stripped you could try hammering in a Torx bit to get it stuck in the head and try turning that out.

The torx bit I'm thinking of is a long one about 3" long that will reach in without removing the crankshaft pulley. It will not be straight on because of the pulley, but if you hammer it it it might be enough to get the bolt turning. The M6 will probably be too small as it's a stripped bolt, but the next size M8 might fit if hammered hard enough-you may have to trim it a bit smaller. They do not make an M7 size. The trade name is "XZN Triple Square Spline Bit "
looks like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08D3D4ZGN/ref=sspa_dk_d...s9dHJ1ZQ==

I just tried the M6 size on my spare engine and because of the off angle it fits
into a unstripped head. The M8 is too big to fit.
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This free advice is worth exactly what you paid for it.

There are seven days in a week. Someday is not one of them.

[Steve M.]

Something else to consider and the number one suggestion from someone no longer on the Samba.

Weld a nut onto the head of the bolt.
_________________
This free advice is worth exactly what you paid for it.

There are seven days in a week. Someday is not one of them.

[zoti]

[Steve M.]

[4Gears4Tires]

https://www.amazon.com/Wera-056490-Tool-Check-Ratc...&psc=1

I ordered this earlier and it arrived. It definitely fits. If I were doing this job, I might cut down the little allen key for more rotational clearance. Or use another key and cut that down to not ruin the set. It's tiny and you can see how unnecessarily long the key is. It's a really neat little tool kit.

Compared to 3/8 and 3/4.

Top bolt.

Bottom bolt. Cutting down the key and removing the oil filter would give your hand easier access here.

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'87 Syncro
Ferric Oxyhydroxide Superleggera Edition

[zoti]

I ended up having to cut the bypass hose that goes behind the pulley to get the old water pump out.

It might even be the original pump. Has VW and Audi logos on it.

When the pump was out, I got a grip on the bolts and removed them. Out of the car, they were not that hard to remove.

Looks like I’ll need to pull the oil pressure sensor out to put the new metal hose in.

[IdahoDoug]

Wow, that was quite a battle. I've cursed the engineers on that one before as well. Well done and a tip of the hat!
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1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader

[zoti]

[djkeev]

When you reinstall using new hardware, put some anti-seize on the threads.
They aren't as tight as you might think either. IIRC about Xx edit: 15 ft lbs.

As a leak prevention step and to help keep the Orings in place, I coat the Orings with Hylomar before final assembly.
It isn't "needed" but there is little more frustrating than an Oring that falls out just as you get the unit and the pipes aligned!
Plus, you are assured of it not leaking.
Hylomar is non hardening so on the next replacement you aren't scraping off silicone residue crap!

https://hylomar.com/en/universal-blue/

Dave
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Stop Dead Photo Links how to post photos

Ghia
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=392473

Vanagon
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537

Beetle
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482968&highlight=74+super+vert

[mikemtnbike]

Supplement the paper gasket for the crossover pipe on reinstall as well. Gasgacinch or equivalent, I’ve used a widely available permatex product successfully. Otherwise you can end up with a super slight leak at the very junction of those 6mm bolts.
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1991 Vanagon GL 2.1 AT Westfauxlia. "Frankie" Totaled https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=764510&highlight=carnage
1995 Eurovan Camper "Marzivan"
2020 GTI SE manual

[Steve M.]

[Crankey]

Snap on has low clearance fine tooth ratchet 1/4 drivers which are really cool.
Also you can find fine tooth or gearless aircraft watches on ebay.

In this case...why not reassemble with high grade hex head bolts ??.

Also in some cases where nut access is difficult (🤨) maybe reassemble with a coupling nuts for possibly more tool engagement options ? I mean not in this WP issue but you know, other places where it's hard to get at things.

That one nut/bolt that holds the alt in place, I welded a nut on the front of vehicle end of the bracket so it's a breeze to just drive the bolt in from the back /rear of veh/ pulley side.

[djkeev]

I thought about going with a hex when I assembled my 90’s engine....... but I didn't.

Is there space for a 13mm hex head on the pump itself?

Dave
_________________
Stop Dead Photo Links how to post photos

Ghia
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=392473

Vanagon
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537

Beetle
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482968&highlight=74+super+vert

[Crankey]

Looks like it would be close, surely not enough space for a box end wrench on the head but maybe the head itself.
Since you've cut the water tube off the flange maybe squash the tube enough to gain clearance and weld it back on then clean up the welding with a die grinder so it's all mice inside and out. Next time it'll be easier all around.
There will be a next time.

[Steve M.]