Hello! Log in or Register   |  Help  |  Donate  |  Buy Shirts See all banner ads | Advertise on TheSamba.com  
TheSamba.com
 
really making a link pin beam hug the corners
Page: Previous  1, 2, 3
Forum Index -> Performance/Engines/Transmissions Share: Facebook Twitter
Reply to topic
Print View
Quick sort: Show newest posts on top | Show oldest posts on top View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
esde
Samba Member


Joined: October 20, 2007
Posts: 5966
Location: central rust belt
esde is offline 

PostPosted: Thu May 13, 2021 7:05 pm    Post subject: Re: really making a link pin beam hug the corners Reply with quote

Formula Vee suppliers have link pin bushings that are already made offset to give you some negative camber. You’re supposed to face the carrier where the shims ride too, so the shim face is square to the new bore. It’s not much but it’s something
_________________
modok wrote:
Bent cranks are silent but gather no moss. I mean, ah, something like that.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
modok
Samba Member


Joined: October 30, 2009
Posts: 26785
Location: Colorado Springs
modok is offline 

PostPosted: Thu May 13, 2021 8:52 pm    Post subject: Re: really making a link pin beam hug the corners Reply with quote

FormulaV started allowing disk brakes last year but still required to run wide five.

So they have to make a wide five disk brake kit...... d'oh!
Can they make one that isn't a overcomplicated mess, cost a bazillion dollars, or heavy as a boat anchor?
Quite a few good efforts, but all still far from elegant.

One design I really liked, they solved the problem of the aluminum hub....by using a small steel hub to house the bearings... bolted to a larger aluminum hub, with a brake rotor bolted to that.
A for effort, C- for using waaaay too many bolts Shocked
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
petrol punk
Samba Member


Joined: August 21, 2007
Posts: 975
Location: Las Vegas, NV
petrol punk is offline 

PostPosted: Mon May 24, 2021 5:20 pm    Post subject: Re: really making a link pin beam hug the corners Reply with quote

modok wrote:
in most cases the rollerbearings are replaced with torlon bushings, and the side of the bushing functions as a thrust bearing.
It's a lot like those unsealed heim joints.... not ideal, but works good enough for some purposes.

Might as well keep telling stories.
15 years ago my buddy bought a 1970 bug and it had chevy wheels on wheel adapters and flared fenders. The wheels were spaced FAR out and the tires were really too big also.
I drove it a few times and the "steering feel" was SO bad, it inspired me to make wheels with an even DEEPER backspace than stock, to SEE how that would work.
Wandering around parking lots I found some 175/65-14 tires I thought would be most ideal.
So I MADE the wheels, 14x5 with a nearly 5 inch backspace. Took some toyota corolla wheel hoops, and welded VW centers in them.
the result was VERY good.
They worked nice with dropped spindles, and they would clear disk brakes too. Only cons were.... did reduce the turning circle a bit, and they looked kinda stoopid. One wheel was destroyed when I got in a accident and hit a curb with it. When I got a five lug bug, based on how well that had worked, I used bus wheels.

Is it REALLY a bid deal? no, but, one of the good things about the ancient VW is that it had very responsive, very light steering.
need to find LIGHT tires and keep the scrub radius low to maximize this.
You don't need it, but you might like it.


We found some nice front tires in 15", so what wheels?
I noticed the porsche pattern gas burner wheels have a deep backspace.
If you find any 5" wide wheels with a deep backspace, let ME know. Always looking for options.
There are some 5.5" wide 5s on the market with 4" backspacing which isn't great but not bad. CIP1 has 4x130 cosmics in 5.5" with 5" of backspacing which looks pretty nice
_________________
36hp '56 European DeLuxe oval, '70 bug 1835cc dual 36DRLA, and a '98 4x4 5spd single cab Tacoma
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Instagram Gallery Classifieds Feedback
theastronaut
Samba Member


Joined: November 19, 2007
Posts: 1631
Location: Anderson, SC
theastronaut is offline 

PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2021 10:08 am    Post subject: Re: really making a link pin beam hug the corners Reply with quote

Depends on your definition of "handling". Some people think a stiffly sprung and damped Miata with huge sway bars handles good, and maybe it's pretty decent with sticky tires on a really smooth track. What happens when you throw a few bumps in the corners though? Hopping sideways over bumps isn't good handling. Some people think any body roll is terrible and means the car "handles bad" but thats also untrue. My autocross car has way more body roll than any of my normal cars or trucks, but it regularly places top 5/top 10 at local events. It's sprung and damped softly enough that it soaks up mid corner bumps like they're not there. It also doesn't have a rear sway bar, and only the skinny stock front sway bar which is completely opposite of the usual FWD setup- most suggest a rear sway bar as the first upgrade.

Coilovers are overrated, apart from easy spring rate/spring length changes, and easy ride height adjustment. Stock torsion bars have zero unsprung weight and torsion adjusters make height changes easy.

I prefer really soft springs with a long tapered foam bump stop on the shock shaft to act as a progressive rate spring- soft over bumps yet stiffens up with body roll. Soft springs sag more, and as they unload in a corner on the inside wheels they keep more weight on the tire- a stiff spring unloads weight on the tire at a much higher rate so you lose the ability to put down as much power on the inside wheel.

You'll want to limit suspension droop in the front to reduce body roll and keep weight on the inside rear tire- make adjustable limit straps for the front shocks and tighten them until the front inside wheel is off the ground in a hard corner. If the spring on that corner of the car isn't pushing up on the body then it's not contributing to lifting weight off the inside rear tire, so the rear stays flatter and the inside tire can put down more power exiting corners.

Limiting front droop and using progressive bump stops will act to limit body roll without the negative effects of a sway bar. Sway bars make the suspension less independent.

It's really easy to go with tires that are too wide, especially up front. You need contact pressure on the tread blocks to make the tread work. Wide tires reduce pressure on each tread block so the rubber compound sits on top of the road surface's texture instead of conforming to it and gripping. Wide tires will also hydroplane really easily since the front of the car is so light. Nankang NS2R comes in 165/50-15 and is an excellent low treadwear sticky street/track tire that has plenty of grooves to handle rain. Couple them with light wheels as they're heavier than normal street tires due to the extra sidewall reinforcement.

Shock damping will be important.

You'll want to lower the rear for around 2-3 degrees of negative camber. Between lowering the rear and the front limit straps you shouldn't need to worry about the usual swingaxle jacking problem.

Use FV front link pin bushings for as much camber as possible.
_________________
Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exist and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough."
-Sir Henry Royce, co-founder of Rolls-Royce

'64 Beetle Sunroof OG Bahama Blue
'63 Beetle Vert
'66 Beetle
'88 Festiva L
'89 Festiva L
'64 Chevy C10
'66 Chevy C10
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Instagram Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Erik G
Samba Member


Joined: October 16, 2002
Posts: 13271
Location: Tejas!
Erik G is offline 

PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2021 10:22 am    Post subject: Re: really making a link pin beam hug the corners Reply with quote

Busstom wrote:
Chickensoup wrote:
I checked the tire size. They are Nanking 165r15 875

So I'm guessing the 875 means 75 for the side wall?


I think you've gotten your numbers jumbled up... 165r15 875 isn't a valid tire size, and in case you're unfamiliar with how tire sizing convention goes, it's expressed as an "aspect ratio," and it goes like this:

Example tire: 175/65R15
1) Okay, first off, the last number, 15, is obviously the rim size, so let's throw that out, cuz it's a no-brainer...

Now, you're left with the aspect ratio, 175/65:
2) 175 is the WIDTH of the tire, in millimeters, and, 175 divided by 25.4 is 6.89 inches, call it 7 inches (divide any metric number by 25.4 to convert it to inches!)

And, 65 is the sidewall height, which is a percentage of the WIDTH, thus:
3) 65% of 175mm is 113.75 millimeters, or, after you do the conversion arithmetic, 4.48 inches (call it four-and-a-half inches tall).

So, the 175/65 tire is 7 inches wide and 4.5 inches tall, not including the bead that's hidden underneath the rim lip.

Summarized, the arithmetic for your research purposes is:
175 divided by 25.4 = 6.89" tire width (cross section);
175 times 0.65 (65%) = 113.75, divided by 25.4 = 4.5 inches (sidewall height). Finally, 15 inches (your rim size) + 4.5 x 2 (sidewall height times 2) = 9, and 15 + 9 = 24 for an overall tire height of 24 inches on the rim, BEFORE loading under the weight of the vehicle.


you mean well but are wrong. 165R15 165SR15 165HR15 was a common place metric format. same with 135r15, 145r15, 155r15 etc. In general, those would have an 82 aspect ratio.

here is some informative information:
https://automotivemileposts.com/tires101.html
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Facebook Instagram Gallery Classifieds Feedback
petrol punk
Samba Member


Joined: August 21, 2007
Posts: 975
Location: Las Vegas, NV
petrol punk is offline 

PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2021 11:21 am    Post subject: Re: really making a link pin beam hug the corners Reply with quote

theastronaut wrote:
Depends on your definition of "handling". Some people think a stiffly sprung and damped Miata with huge sway bars handles good, and maybe it's pretty decent with sticky tires on a really smooth track. What happens when you throw a few bumps in the corners though? Hopping sideways over bumps isn't good handling. Some people think any body roll is terrible and means the car "handles bad" but thats also untrue. My autocross car has way more body roll than any of my normal cars or trucks, but it regularly places top 5/top 10 at local events. It's sprung and damped softly enough that it soaks up mid corner bumps like they're not there. It also doesn't have a rear sway bar, and only the skinny stock front sway bar which is completely opposite of the usual FWD setup- most suggest a rear sway bar as the first upgrade.

Coilovers are overrated, apart from easy spring rate/spring length changes, and easy ride height adjustment. Stock torsion bars have zero unsprung weight and torsion adjusters make height changes easy.

I prefer really soft springs with a long tapered foam bump stop on the shock shaft to act as a progressive rate spring- soft over bumps yet stiffens up with body roll. Soft springs sag more, and as they unload in a corner on the inside wheels they keep more weight on the tire- a stiff spring unloads weight on the tire at a much higher rate so you lose the ability to put down as much power on the inside wheel.

You'll want to limit suspension droop in the front to reduce body roll and keep weight on the inside rear tire- make adjustable limit straps for the front shocks and tighten them until the front inside wheel is off the ground in a hard corner. If the spring on that corner of the car isn't pushing up on the body then it's not contributing to lifting weight off the inside rear tire, so the rear stays flatter and the inside tire can put down more power exiting corners.

Limiting front droop and using progressive bump stops will act to limit body roll without the negative effects of a sway bar. Sway bars make the suspension less independent.

It's really easy to go with tires that are too wide, especially up front. You need contact pressure on the tread blocks to make the tread work. Wide tires reduce pressure on each tread block so the rubber compound sits on top of the road surface's texture instead of conforming to it and gripping. Wide tires will also hydroplane really easily since the front of the car is so light. Nankang NS2R comes in 165/50-15 and is an excellent low treadwear sticky street/track tire that has plenty of grooves to handle rain. Couple them with light wheels as they're heavier than normal street tires due to the extra sidewall reinforcement.

Shock damping will be important.

You'll want to lower the rear for around 2-3 degrees of negative camber. Between lowering the rear and the front limit straps you shouldn't need to worry about the usual swingaxle jacking problem.

Use FV front link pin bushings for as much camber as possible.
Great post, I think it's important to focus on not falling for the "stiff springs and huge swaybars so your suspension doesnt work" trap. My only complaint is that a 165/50R15 is a really small diameter tire. I have 175/55's and stock spindles and I still scrape my swaybar on the curb leaving my driveway and going over dips. Unfortunately a narrow ~24" OD performance tire doesn't really seem to exist so you just have to suck it up with a small diameter tire and huge fender gaps if you want any suspension travel.
_________________
36hp '56 European DeLuxe oval, '70 bug 1835cc dual 36DRLA, and a '98 4x4 5spd single cab Tacoma
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Instagram Gallery Classifieds Feedback
theastronaut
Samba Member


Joined: November 19, 2007
Posts: 1631
Location: Anderson, SC
theastronaut is offline 

PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2021 12:47 pm    Post subject: Re: really making a link pin beam hug the corners Reply with quote

petrol punk wrote:
Great post, I think it's important to focus on not falling for the "stiff springs and huge swaybars so your suspension doesnt work" trap. My only complaint is that a 165/50R15 is a really small diameter tire. I have 175/55's and stock spindles and I still scrape my swaybar on the curb leaving my driveway and going over dips. Unfortunately a narrow ~24" OD performance tire doesn't really seem to exist so you just have to suck it up with a small diameter tire and huge fender gaps if you want any suspension travel.


Yep, I had a Miata on coilovers and sticky tires and it was pretty decent as far as grip and balance but skated over bumps. Too stiff and not enough travel to be useful anywhere but a smooth track. It felt "sporty" though, and that's what most people equate with "handling good". The Festiva I autocross and daily is a trophy truck in comparison- plenty of body roll but soaks up everything like it's not there and never loses grip even jumping curbing, and grip is way up compared to the Miata. It doesn't feel terribly sporty, it feels soft and slow in corners but it's actually way faster into and through corners. Plus with soft/long travel suspension I can make straighter lines over curbs that would total a low/stiff/short travel car. Laughing


It's very hard to find skinny but sticky tires in appropriate sizes, especially in the US. There are some 13's available but they're very short, like 175/50r13 or 185/60r13. 14's are extremely limited on sticky tires, but 185/60r14 stickies are available in a few choices. Skinny DOT legal 15's are all but impossible to find. The 165/50r15 NS2R is the closest thing I know of in a sticky compound that isn't too wide. At least with the Festiva the front is heavy enough to get heat in a 185. A VW probably would have a hard time heating up 165's unless you're all out on a track for a longer session. Setting up the suspension to pick up the inside front wheel in a turn will help with that, more weight will be loaded on the outside tires.
_________________
Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exist and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough."
-Sir Henry Royce, co-founder of Rolls-Royce

'64 Beetle Sunroof OG Bahama Blue
'63 Beetle Vert
'66 Beetle
'88 Festiva L
'89 Festiva L
'64 Chevy C10
'66 Chevy C10
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Instagram Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Display posts from previous:   
Reply to topic    Forum Index -> Performance/Engines/Transmissions All times are Mountain Standard Time/Pacific Daylight Savings Time
Page: Previous  1, 2, 3
Page 3 of 3

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

About | Help! | Advertise | Donate | Premium Membership | Privacy/Terms of Use | Contact Us | Site Map
Copyright © 1996-2023, Everett Barnes. All Rights Reserved.
Not affiliated with or sponsored by Volkswagen of America | Forum powered by phpBB
Links to eBay or other vendor sites may be affiliate links where the site receives compensation.