1600DP What Distributor# to use? / UPDATE

[skip2th]

First post here after coming out of hiatus status....

I have a 1967 DC bus truck. After a few years (almost 4) of sitting idle on the project. Work began in March 2021 to finish up a "preservation" restoration. Basics: Run, Stop, Shift, Drive. Originally set out to bring my numbers matching single port engine back to life. That was put on the back burner for original German parts acquiring. A recently rebuilt engine / opportunity presented itself. I jumped on it knowing it would not be my "forever engine". Wanting only to get my project on the road and begin enjoying it. FYI: this rebuilt engine came out of: 1969 Karmann Ghia / Electric Conversion "Blue" listed for sale locally still & on this site at one point last month.

The engine breakdown:

- Case# H5768276 "68-69 type 1, 1500cc / 44bhp DIN / 53HP SAE M157 - USA"
- Engine rebuilt to stock specs (in contact with original builder / VW shop owner for over 20years back in the day)
- Engine was rebuilt with Brand New Dual Port heads (Mexico 043101375H / VW logo & "5")
- Carburetor: 34PICT-3 / aftermarket replacement - no brand name
- Distributor: "009" w/ Pertronix cap / ignition.
- Bosch Premium Spark Wires
- Autolite 425 Spark Plugs
- Has Alternator now also / no longer a Generator
- Brosol Fuel Pump (alternator style)
- 12volt Blue replacement Bosch (Mexico?) Coil
- New stock bus muffler

I am using my factory stock 1967 oil bath air cleaner. My truck is otherwise completely stock: 4 speed manual trans, Big Nut RGB's, Fuel System from the Tank all the way to the Fuel Pump is 100% Brand New...the tank, all the hard & soft lines (fuel filter in place under bus).




My questions:

I am extremely confused on what IS correct and which distributor I should buy? As the engine code for my case comes back as a "205M" distributor.
Do I get a 205(?)......OR a "034"?

And I am not even positive anymore if the 34PICT-3 should be on my engine? As it is coming back as a later model carburetor then when my engine originally was built.

Any suggestions on which (part#) German Bosch Distributor I need to get would be much appreciated. I Only want to purchase a restored German Distributor not an aftermarket Chinese one.

[Lind]

Post some pics of your engine, and your M-code plate.

Get rid of the 009, and get a vacuum advance distributor that works.

Generally ignore your engine code, as your engine has been converted to dualport.
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Wanted:
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[skip2th]

[skip2th]

[Braukuche]

You need a 71 up style “push/pull” distributer for a bus. The engine you built is what they used on 71 buses and 71 up Type Is.

https://oldvolkshome.wetwesties.org/ignition.htm
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Go Reds! Smash state!

Retirement is here!
1956 Ghia
1959 SO-23 Westfalia
1960 double cab
1960 Baja Bug
1963 stretched double cab
1962 Golde sunroof Ghia
1963 356 B coupe
1963 Notchback
1967 21 window less rusty now

[skip2th]

Lind, photos uploaded you requested.

To the others:

I did NOT build this engine. The engine I am referring to above in the rather lengthy, but detailed post, came out of a 1969 Karmann Ghia, NOT a 71 bus.

What is a "push / pull" distributor? I am learning so much everyday. I am by no means an expert in this mechanical area. So I will need the replies / repair descriptions / suggestions, to be for a novice....please.

[Clara]

While many people prefer a vac dist, the symptoms you describe are not because of a 009.
Driving with a 009 does require a different and more engaged driving style than a 205M A 009 is famous for having a flat spot when paired with your carb.

Check that the plug did not fall out of your carb. I can't see it well in the kind of far off pic. Maybe add a pic with just the engine compartment opening.


Is there fuel supply to pump? If the truck sat for years, it can have a rusty tank.
Is there crap in your fuel filter?
You may want to put a magnet down the tank to pick up rust flakes.

It is easier than pulling the tank and cleaning it out, but you can do that.

I like to put the fuel filter here, for easy access.

If it is under the bus, it is very easy to get gasoline on you when you change the filter.
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[BonTonRoulet]

I'm going all in on a fuel delivery issue here.

1) If you used your original fuel tank without cleaning it, chances are it has trash in it that has gathered around the mesh sock at the fuel outlet inside the tank. And/or

2) These old VW's don't have a separate line into the fuel tank to act as a vent. You need air going into the tank to get gas out of the tank. The tank gets vented through the gas cap. That's why the proper gas cap is termed "Vented". When it quit on you on the road, it could have been that the tank was not getting vented via the cap and the fuel pump was pulling a vacuum on the tank. Once the vacuum overcame the pumps ability to draw fuel you get no more fuel. At that point, on the side of the road, you could have attempted to remove the fuel tank cap. If it was relatively hard to pull off and resulted in an instantaneous "whoosh" sound due to air entering the tank to equalize the previous vacuum situation, then you would realize that's your problem. And you could have driven away for a little bit with the cap back on until the process repeated itself or until the tank was empty with the cap uninstalled.

Plenty of used gas caps for sale around here in the classifieds. And a lot of them somebody drilled a hole through the top of them. That aint how you do it......

EDIT: Ok, I re-read your initial post to see that the fuel system is "all new including the tank". Did you install a new gas cap as well?

[Lind]

[BarryL]

Check the condition of the rubber and the clamps for tightness on your dualport boots.

[c21darrel]

[FarmerBill]

I also vote for rust in the tank interrupting the fuel supply. If you have rust flakes in the bowl they're probably all through the carb in the jets by now. I had a friend that pulled a 1948 Jeep out of a barn and went through 3 or 4 in line filters the first few weeks he drove it. This was after he had to remove and clean out the carb twice. I am considering putting a sediment bowl in front of the filter on my bus if i don't end up replacing the fuel tank, it should cut down on the number of filters I go through.

[skip2th]

1- I am using my original VW Fuel Cap that came with my truck. It is in excellent condition. However I ordered and replaced the Cork Gasket that is underneath the cap. Once I get driving again....I will definitely check the pressure on the cap. TY for this suggestion.

2- I will also check the rubber boots on the DP intake manifolds. I have not done this. TY for this suggestion.

3- The build date on my DC is 08/09/1966. So yes I believe it is a very early built (possibly right after the workers returned from Summer Break). This is also the same date the Beatles released "Yellow Submarine" in the USA. No reverse lights, and my truck did NOT have a factory dual circuit Master Cylinder (now does). It has been interesting to read the date codes from parts I have. My original dome top fuel pump, I call my "evil fuel pump"...date is 0666.

4- Thank you for correcting me on the "Mountain Gears". I was going off of info that VWOA had sent to me with my COA. I had been told by others that sometimes they miss the mark on some of the info.

5- FUEL TANK IS A BRAND NEW UNIT. I NEVER STARTED THE ENGINE OFF THE OLD TANK. ONLY A NEW FUEL CONTAINER. NEW FUEL SENDING UNIT, NEW HARD & SOFT LINES, NEW FUEL FILTER, NEW TANK ELBOW/SOCK. The inline fuel filter is still clear with no debris.

However, as I mentioned in my original post. When I went on the shake down drive on 05/01/21. And had to pull over, I noticed a lot of small rust chips all around the inside of the engine compartment area. So much I had to use a shop rag to "sweep" them up and try to get them all (impossible) out. So I am guessing that this may be the culprit to the rust chips I found inside the carburetor when removed to clean it. I am also guessing I did not clean it thoroughly enough as there may still be something blocking the jets. My original 1967 Oil Bath Air Cleaner does have fresh oil in it, filled to the "orange/red line".

[FarmerBill]

Just because it's a "new" tank doesn't mean it can't have rust. I bought a "new" tank for a Toyota Hi-lux that had a coat of rust in it so thick that it looked orange inside. That said it sounds like your carb was contaminated by some other means. If your filters, (air and fuel) are working properly that leaves assembly for the path for rust into the bowl. Clean out your jets and I'll bet your problem goes away.

[Lind]

The engine also needs the metal vacuum line between the carb and distributor. Otherwise fuel will collect in the vacuum can on the distributor and make it fail.
_________________
.
Wanted:
Idaho VW license plate frames or other dealership items.
VWoA literature and early dealership or distributor literature/pictures/information
.

[c21darrel]

[skip2th]

Yes I ordered a correct distributor metal vacuum line with the "loop". It is on the way. The hose you see in the photo was ran temporarily to try that Chinese SVDA 034.


Can anyone please.......suggest a part# for which German Bosch distributor I should be looking for? That would be most helpful.

[tasb]

Since you are looking for an original preservation here is what I would do. Acquire a restored 30 PICT 1 German Solex carburetor. Mate that to a restored Bosch 113 905 205 K (Bosch# 0 231 137 009)vacuum advance only distributor. This was the factory pairing in 1967. On your current engine you will need an adaptor plate between the intake and carburetor. When you switch to the earlier engine your pairing will be a perfect match and you can ditch the adaptor plate.
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Roads Scholar &
1957 Kombi low mileage 36 hp governor equipped M 178 Slow Drag Winner 2014, 2015, 2018

1965 hardtop Deluxe Microbus owned since 1990 M 620 factory 12 v 1500cc

1961 (October)Single Cab- Road Trip Workhorse

[ryans65]

I'll look in my stash, I think I have a 205T and 205M I'm not using at the moment.

[tasb]

To be more accurate you have a 113 M and a 113 T in your stash. Every distributor VW has used is a "205".
_________________
Roads Scholar &
1957 Kombi low mileage 36 hp governor equipped M 178 Slow Drag Winner 2014, 2015, 2018

1965 hardtop Deluxe Microbus owned since 1990 M 620 factory 12 v 1500cc

1961 (October)Single Cab- Road Trip Workhorse